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26-08-2014 #1
Must be age related but I've been getting mixed up with this thread http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7816-...0874#post60874
As amxen says get the velocity and acceleration down on Mach3 to something that won't (shouldn't ?)cause any issues.
Once that's eliminated my stab is that the breakout board is faulty and it's either a bad soldered joint on the inputs pull-up resistor pack or the pack itself. (sometimes I like to live dangerous
)
Last edited by EddyCurrent; 26-08-2014 at 08:31 PM.
Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted
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26-08-2014 #2
The good driver is happy running the long axis at 4000mm/min & 400mm/s2 (twice the standard) on its own. The fault occurs even with all axes at 1/2 standard speed.
What's a half decent PSU/BOB/3x drives gonna cost me? If the seller can't replace quickly or the next ione is also faulty I'll be after a discount towards my replacement controller box.
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26-08-2014 #3
I may be wrong but I think these are the main UK suppliers of stuff used by DIY'ers, plus obviously there's ebay.
http://www.diycnc.co.uk/
http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/
http://cnc4you.co.uk/
If I was in your position I woud change the breakout board first and would most likely choose a similar board from ebay, they are less than a tenner from abroad, in fact I have just realised I have a board like yours that I bought to get extra inputs to my system, it's working fine in that role. It connects into port2 of my SmoothStepper
Last edited by EddyCurrent; 26-08-2014 at 10:06 PM.
Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted
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26-08-2014 #4
I would go for the part refund and buy decent electronics with a mind to transplant to your next machine. . . . No point replacing crap with crap.!!
To be honest I'd want more than just the refund of the Drive and BOB there's your fiddling time and Down time to take into acount.
These things need to be accounted for when your thinking about electronics and machine because what's the point having a machine if your spending more time chasing faults or fixing the bloody thing or than using it.?
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26-08-2014 #5
just found out what my problem is. made my own post
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7839-...1165#post61165
dont know if it will help any one
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27-08-2014 #6
Bit more info. summary: Mistakes corrected, but no happy ending.
When adjusting dip switches, refer to the instructions on the side of the driver, not to an instruction for a different driver that you found on the internet! Yes folks, I don't have leadshine M542s, I have Tongka M542s and the dip switch setting are different.
Funny thing is that when I looked at the dips I found a setting that indicated 16 microsteps, unfortunately that was just chance. So when I thought I was changing from 16steps to 8steps, I was actually changing from 3A to 2A, and from 0% decay to 50% (whatever that is).
I've put everything to how it was set originally. And I've tried 8steps instead of 16. In both cases all the faults are just the same as before.
I did spot that dip7 is set at 1/2 current. The other option is full current. Looks like I'm running at half throttle ?
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27-08-2014 #7
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