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  1. #1
    Bit more info. summary: Mistakes corrected, but no happy ending.

    When adjusting dip switches, refer to the instructions on the side of the driver, not to an instruction for a different driver that you found on the internet! Yes folks, I don't have leadshine M542s, I have Tongka M542s and the dip switch setting are different.

    Funny thing is that when I looked at the dips I found a setting that indicated 16 microsteps, unfortunately that was just chance. So when I thought I was changing from 16steps to 8steps, I was actually changing from 3A to 2A, and from 0% decay to 50% (whatever that is).

    I've put everything to how it was set originally. And I've tried 8steps instead of 16. In both cases all the faults are just the same as before.


    I did spot that dip7 is set at 1/2 current. The other option is full current. Looks like I'm running at half throttle ?

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by jimbowley View Post
    I did spot that dip7 is set at 1/2 current. The other option is full current. Looks like I'm running at half throttle ?
    This is to drop the current when motor is at stand still to reduce over heating keep it set.

    Edit: Opp's sorry irving didn't see you'd replyed already.!
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 27-08-2014 at 09:49 AM.

  3. #3
    Seller responded just in time (I was openeing a case as the message came in). He says no controller boxes in UK but will send me 2x driver controllers. I said I also want interface board, even if it ships from china.

    I could do some cutting using manual control for Z, as that wouldn't trigger the problem. but I will wait and get on with other stuff until spares arrive. Signing out for a few days :(

  4. #4
    A pair of 2flute 6mm cutters arrived. Very cheap and came in 4 days from UK not HongKong. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190984562714 price was only £1.69 last week ! I've got some more expensive ones as well coming from china, comparisons will come in due course.

    So I disconnected Z, and that allows me to drive around in X and Y.

    Feed 1200mm/min. 6000RPM.

    First I did full width passes along the top at about 1mm doc > all fine.

    Then I sidemilled the endface with doc 3mm stepover about 1.4mm. Fine conventional but when I tried to climb mill on the way back I got a loud vibration.

    That made me panic and I hit a key (aiming for reverse!) and instead took a cut at full width 9mm doc. That too made a noise but nothing broke.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'm pretty pleased. Acetal is the easiest plastic to work with, and I'm all for making life easy. These feeds and speeds are plenty for the small pieces I have planned.

    I'll probably go back to 16 microsteps giving a max feed around 2300 as I don't think I'll be needing 4700 mm/min.


    Hoping my replacement drivers arrive soon so I can do some CNC.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by jimbowley View Post
    I'll probably go back to 16 microsteps giving a max feed around 2300 as I don't think I'll be needing 4700 mm/min.
    Be aware that this will put more stress on the parallel port as your needing twice the pulses to travel same distance no matter what the speed so your open to missed steps if the PP struggles at higher feeds.!
    Don't think of MS in terms of increasing resolution because in reality at this level it doesn't really it has bigger affect on smoothing the motors. But it does come at a price by putting the system under more stress. With machines running external motion control cards this isn't an issue but it can be trouble some for PP driven machines. Esp if using cheap drives and Bob's etc.!

  6. #6
    I'll leave it at 8 then, and enjoy high speed rapids over my 60x60mm workpiece :)

    2 new drivers arrived today. Everything now appears to be working. I took one of the dodgy ones apart and the heatsinking was poor - blob of paste covering about 25% of the surface area. A nicely ground bit of aluminium plate between chip and heatink, but it had been chopped leaving a burr which lifts the end!

    Before I do any sustained work, I think I will take my good ones apart and ensure a good heatsink connection.

    Also spotted one very poor solder connection, so there is a posiibility of fixing the bad ones.


    I did take the goods ones apart, and made sure the heatsinking was good. The 2 replacements, and the one original that worked had smaller (but flatter) heat sink pads than the faulty ones. Indicating that the design is at least evolving! The pad edges still needed a clean up though, and the paste was still only 20% coverage.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by jimbo_cnc; 08-09-2014 at 11:01 AM.

  7. #7
    So what was causing the faults / resets when jogging from the keyboard ? did you change the breakout board ?
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

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