1st time setting up.. whats normal..

[JAZZCNC]

I am getting very hot motors even when not working.. apart from the Y which is cold. I have swapped over the X and Y motors and all the motors seem OK. It seems to be the Y channel on the board that is duff..

I had the DIP switch's all on 6 to start and thought that might be too much (I don't really know yet what they do..) So I turned them all off apart from No.6.. Motors still move but looks a lot slower.. Is that what happens..?

Eddy's suggested settings are a good starting point but must say your going about this all wrong by turning on very flakey drives with no clue how to set them up or what your doing.! Guessing at these things is just asking to let out the magic smoke and these drives are full of smoke just bursting to get out.!

Sorry to say this after the event and probably not what you want to hear but still needs saying IMO.!! . . You have really wasted £108.! Even if they survive your best efforts to kill them the performance you'll get will be rubbish with only 24V and motors with 14mH inductance.

Cut your losses now and sell them before you kill them and buy some decent gear because with machine having dimensions of 900 x 700 you'll want half decent gear on it otherwise you'll be really dissapointed with it when it could probably be so much more.? (depending on build quality)

Trying to do it on the cheap in case you blow things up is completely the wrong way to go about it.! . . . Separate drives are no harder to wire than all-in-one boards and they are far more tolerant and robust than TB based drives and can be cheap if you shop around.
Cheap motors are often very low quality just like those you have with high inductance which plays a major part in the performance you can get out of them. PSU's are cheap enough if you look around Ebay and not at all difficult to build if your that way inclined.

Your much better off waiting and saving for the real thing than wasting money and getting frustrated or turned off CNC by cheap nasty toy town electronics.!!

[Marlin]

Thank you for your responses. Eddy's links.. 1st.. Yes, that is the motors I have.. 2nd link is the information I have on the CD that came with the kit which I followed very carefully before turning on.
I have emailed Longs and have just heard back from them saying this may be out of date and will be sending me a (new) Datasheet.
Also after more faffing about with my kit I realised the heat was being generated by the Motors vibrating but the shaft not moving so assumed I was caught in some software loop.. Things seem to want to work but I just don't have the ducks in the right order.
Jazz, I have read a lot of posts (here and elsewhere) and it seems nothing is problem free. I dithered a lot before deciding to go cheap. I figured the Motors were probably the simplest component and could be used again with better Drives and at this price (£108) I was getting the TB6560 for free. I found in life paying more for something doesn't necessarily get you something better. Hence, the learning curve. Anyhow, I am sure I have read posts with you chastising someone for spending too much and wasting money..
I am not embarking on this build so much to learn electronics because I don't think I ever will, I just want a working machine that I can reasonably understand and modify in the future. I am better at the practical construction stuff.
If anybody else has any experiences with this set-up I would like to hear your tales. Thanks

[EddyCurrent]

Also after more faffing about with my kit I realised the heat was being generated by the Motors vibrating but the shaft not moving so assumed I was caught in some software loop..

That's normal, also they will get hot but generally only after being put to work for a while, that's what mine do anyway.
You didn't say if the new settings had any effect.

[Marlin]

Hi Eddy, Sorry about delay, I had to go to Waitrose.. (ok, Lidl's.. I'm not made of money..) and have taken your advice on the DIP switches.
I have just started running the RRunner gcode and the X axis seems to be doing fine following the DRO..
The Y axis is dead, I shall see if I can acquire a different PP Cable to see if that is the problem.
The Z axis looks fine as well. Small movements that relate to DRO.

(At this stage I have no idea how the Shaft rotation marries up with distance moved but I am sure that will become apparent.)

When I start the RR the 4th motor does the Vibration jig which is worrying as there is no DRO movement.
When I hit RESET to halt the program everything goes quiet and stops.. No continuing vibration from any Motor..
When I try to restart the program all (not Y) start a whining noise.. prior to the program continuing.. Is that normal?

As much as I am unfamiliar with Stepper motors, the heat that seems to be being generated even when not running the GCode seems excessive.. Too hot to touch after a few minutes..
I am used to regular Machine motors and, as you say, will generate heat during a work period.

I assume I could use Channel 4 instead of Y with a bit of re-routing..?

One final question.. On the set-up (Foxtech you linked..) it shows specific Numbers in specific boxes when setting up the Ports and Pins Motor Output, Input Signals and Output signals.. I have taken these on screen No.s as the Correct No.s to insert as I have no other list of No.s to refer to.. (Unless I get something useful back from Longs..)

The Tutorial Videos on Artsoft just say 'Refer to Figures supplied by machine builder..' Not very helpful..
Again, I appreciate any assistance..

[EddyCurrent]

(At this stage I have no idea how the Shaft rotation marries up with distance moved but I am sure that will become apparent.)

You need to use the 'Steps Per' setting in the Mach3 motor tuning pages. this link explains the calculation; http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7733-...0877#post60877

When I start the RR the 4th motor does the Vibration jig which is worrying as there is no DRO movement.

It may actually be responding to the G-code but looks like vibration. Edit: sorry just noticed you said no DRO motion, looks like it's not responding to G code then

When I try to restart the program all (not Y) start a whining noise.. prior to the program continuing.. Is that normal?

To a certain extent, mine sounded like whales singing at first until I got the tuning right.

As much as I am unfamiliar with Stepper motors, the heat that seems to be being generated even when not running the GCode seems excessive.. Too hot to touch after a few minutes..

Some people say this is normal, I don't know for certain, but mine don't get that hot.

I assume I could use Channel 4 instead of Y with a bit of re-routing..?

I was going to suggest that at first but thought you might already have a motor connected to it, yes try that.

One final question.. On the set-up (Foxtech you linked..) it shows specific Numbers in specific boxes when setting up the Ports and Pins Motor Output, Input Signals and Output signals.. I have taken these on screen No.s as the Correct No.s to insert as I have no other list of No.s to refer to.. (Unless I get something useful back from Longs..)

The numbers in the boxes have to match the setup of your machine, the ones in the manual could be correct or they may just be examples.

Watch these videos to learn about where the numbers come from.

[Marlin]

Thank you for the link, I think I understand this and I shall be able to apply this a little further down the line. For now I just need to know what works (or doesn't) with the Kit I have.

On the Roadrunner GCode there is only XY&Z DRO.. No 4th motor! I could just un-enable No. 4 perhaps?

It was always my intention to slave 2 motors for the Y axis and as much as I have seen references to it I can't find any definitive instructions on how it is done.. Any links?

Re: my final question, that was my thought that the stuff supplied was just a suggestion rather than being specific.. I do feel my problems lie in this area.. understanding the PP Pins and their route..

I have not heard back from Longs yet.. we shall see..
Thanks again.

[EddyCurrent]

You can just trace the wires out as shown in the first video

[Neale]

Motor heating when "not in use" - steppers aren't quite like other motors. They take power to hold position even when not moving. What the driver will probably let you do (it's often a DIP switch setting) is reduce power to half while the motor is stationary. I think my drivers do this if the motor has been stopped for more than a half-second or so. That might help if you haven't selected this already. Seems normal for steppers to run hot anyway - too hot to touch but not hot enough that a drop of spit sizzles seems ok...