1st time setting up.. whats normal..

[EddyCurrent]

Also after more faffing about with my kit I realised the heat was being generated by the Motors vibrating but the shaft not moving so assumed I was caught in some software loop..

That's normal, also they will get hot but generally only after being put to work for a while, that's what mine do anyway.
You didn't say if the new settings had any effect.

[Marlin]

Hi Eddy, Sorry about delay, I had to go to Waitrose.. (ok, Lidl's.. I'm not made of money..) and have taken your advice on the DIP switches.
I have just started running the RRunner gcode and the X axis seems to be doing fine following the DRO..
The Y axis is dead, I shall see if I can acquire a different PP Cable to see if that is the problem.
The Z axis looks fine as well. Small movements that relate to DRO.

(At this stage I have no idea how the Shaft rotation marries up with distance moved but I am sure that will become apparent.)

When I start the RR the 4th motor does the Vibration jig which is worrying as there is no DRO movement.
When I hit RESET to halt the program everything goes quiet and stops.. No continuing vibration from any Motor..
When I try to restart the program all (not Y) start a whining noise.. prior to the program continuing.. Is that normal?

As much as I am unfamiliar with Stepper motors, the heat that seems to be being generated even when not running the GCode seems excessive.. Too hot to touch after a few minutes..
I am used to regular Machine motors and, as you say, will generate heat during a work period.

I assume I could use Channel 4 instead of Y with a bit of re-routing..?

One final question.. On the set-up (Foxtech you linked..) it shows specific Numbers in specific boxes when setting up the Ports and Pins Motor Output, Input Signals and Output signals.. I have taken these on screen No.s as the Correct No.s to insert as I have no other list of No.s to refer to.. (Unless I get something useful back from Longs..)

The Tutorial Videos on Artsoft just say 'Refer to Figures supplied by machine builder..' Not very helpful..
Again, I appreciate any assistance..

[EddyCurrent]

(At this stage I have no idea how the Shaft rotation marries up with distance moved but I am sure that will become apparent.)

You need to use the 'Steps Per' setting in the Mach3 motor tuning pages. this link explains the calculation; http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7733-...0877#post60877

When I start the RR the 4th motor does the Vibration jig which is worrying as there is no DRO movement.

It may actually be responding to the G-code but looks like vibration. Edit: sorry just noticed you said no DRO motion, looks like it's not responding to G code then

When I try to restart the program all (not Y) start a whining noise.. prior to the program continuing.. Is that normal?

To a certain extent, mine sounded like whales singing at first until I got the tuning right.

As much as I am unfamiliar with Stepper motors, the heat that seems to be being generated even when not running the GCode seems excessive.. Too hot to touch after a few minutes..

Some people say this is normal, I don't know for certain, but mine don't get that hot.

I assume I could use Channel 4 instead of Y with a bit of re-routing..?

I was going to suggest that at first but thought you might already have a motor connected to it, yes try that.

One final question.. On the set-up (Foxtech you linked..) it shows specific Numbers in specific boxes when setting up the Ports and Pins Motor Output, Input Signals and Output signals.. I have taken these on screen No.s as the Correct No.s to insert as I have no other list of No.s to refer to.. (Unless I get something useful back from Longs..)

The numbers in the boxes have to match the setup of your machine, the ones in the manual could be correct or they may just be examples.

Watch these videos to learn about where the numbers come from.

[Marlin]

Thank you for the link, I think I understand this and I shall be able to apply this a little further down the line. For now I just need to know what works (or doesn't) with the Kit I have.

On the Roadrunner GCode there is only XY&Z DRO.. No 4th motor! I could just un-enable No. 4 perhaps?

It was always my intention to slave 2 motors for the Y axis and as much as I have seen references to it I can't find any definitive instructions on how it is done.. Any links?

Re: my final question, that was my thought that the stuff supplied was just a suggestion rather than being specific.. I do feel my problems lie in this area.. understanding the PP Pins and their route..

I have not heard back from Longs yet.. we shall see..
Thanks again.

[EddyCurrent]

You can just trace the wires out as shown in the first video

[Marlin]

Just spent a few minutes watching the Video's, I hadn't seen these before. Thank you.
The 1st doesn't so much apply to me at this stage as I have the combined board but will be useful if (when) I get separate drivers and a BOB. The second video was very helpful and have followed along and all my Drives (apart from my dead Y..) seem to do what they should.. so I feel the Pin No.s I have are correct.. yay

Thanks Neale for your comments about the heat, I have now taken to spitting on the motors to keep them cool.. Do I need to spit on the PSU too..? Bzzzt
I am taking this to mean that whilst a program is running and a particular motor may be stationary it is not idle.. ie.. it is powered to maintain that position and will be making some sort of noise rather like revving a car engine in a gear on a hill to maintain ... blah.. Like, riding the clutch..! (I'll get there eventually..)
Does 'Tuning the Motor' seems to help with this heat problem though..?

At the end of the 2nd Video a tantalising reference to slaving Motors.. But.. (I thought it would be quite a common practice.)
I am assuming that the slaving has to happen in Mach3 prior to the driver boards so the same signal is going out to 2 drivers but the actual Motors have 2 wires reversed (on one motor) to allow mirror action..? Sounds straightforward..
Thanks again

[Clive S]

Re the heating on the motors have you set the drivers to the correct motor current setting? With the first 3 dip switch settings .. Clive

[JAZZCNC]

I found in life paying more for something doesn't necessarily get you something better. Hence, the learning curve. Anyhow, I am sure I have read posts with you chastising someone for spending too much and wasting money..

Let me assure you when it comes to drives and motors it really does make a difference paying more for good stuff.! . . . . This is why Eddy doesn't have heating motors or issues.!
I'm not having a go at you and I class telling you this as helping because the way your going the outcome will be you blow the drives which is wasted money and the motors are just rubbish.

Now most of your problems come from the motors and the fact they are are 6 wire motors with high inductance connected to poor drives.

First you have them wired Full winding which is effectively like using Series winding and this means you should run them at half the motor rated current. Your motors are rated 1A but your giving them nearly twice what they would want wired in series and thats why they are getting hot.
Because of the way steppers work they draw most current when at rest so again they are getting hot because your providing too much current. Decent ddrive do indeed drop current to lower amount when at rest. Yours probably don't.
Next the 14mH inductance means you need high voltage to any kind of performance out of them, 24V just is now where near enough to be of any use so between too much current and not enough volts you have shitty running motors with poor performance at best.

To help your over heating problem then wire the motors half winding. So use Black & Yel and Red & White cap the others. This would be like wiring in parallel and use the full amp rating of the motor.

The Road runner G-code is done in imperial units so if your using metric units then the moves will be tiny and can appear like judders. If the G-code says 1 it would mean 1 inch but your in mm so 1=1mm hence the small size and tiny juddery moves. If you scale the axis by 25.4 you'll see a difference in the motors. (Remember to reset the scale factor)

Slaving is completely done in the software and you DONT wire the motors in mirror wire them all the same.
If you have motor going wrong way then you can just change the active high/low pin state in motor outputs.

[EddyCurrent]

The 1st doesn't so much apply to me at this stage as I have the combined board but will be useful if (when) I get separate drivers and a BOB.

It does apply because it shows how the pin numbers were derived, about 5 minutes into the video. I'm not convinced you have the pin numbers right in Mach3.

[Neale]

Motor heating when "not in use" - steppers aren't quite like other motors. They take power to hold position even when not moving. What the driver will probably let you do (it's often a DIP switch setting) is reduce power to half while the motor is stationary. I think my drivers do this if the motor has been stopped for more than a half-second or so. That might help if you haven't selected this already. Seems normal for steppers to run hot anyway - too hot to touch but not hot enough that a drop of spit sizzles seems ok...