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  1. #1
    Best advice with regard to Z axis is to put rails on front plate, bit where the spindle mounts, and bearing blocks on back plate, i.e. opposite to what you've shown.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  2. #2
    Is this to make it more rigid..? From the commercial ones ive seen they are all mounted like this. as i thought with it being the Hiwin rails with less play than the SBR stuff

    I dont suppose anyone knows what this bar is for on the bottom of the gantry of the Techno machines do they? Im guessing that when its tightened it pulls it square of some sort?

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
    Nevermind ive found ou what it is

    "a special steel backing beam and torsion bar are integrated into the axis for added stability. The torsion bar acts like a sway bar on a vehicle, which in turn keeps everything straight and taut when cutting loads change. The steel backing beam provides extra support to the linear rails, greatly improving the router's rigidity."

  4. #4
    mekanik's Avatar
    Lives in Barrow in Furness, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 17 Hours Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 799. Received thanks 99 times, giving thanks to others 176 times.
    Hi D man
    I would wait for conformation off one of our more experienced members but i would think the Z needs to be on the other side of the gantry so it is better centered over the X axis bearing blocks.
    Regards
    Mike

  5. #5
    Yeah ive been thing about this myself, The setup works on my 4x4, however thats only cuttin MDF and light plastic. i have been toying with the itea of vertical ones on this one, but the side to side motion worries me as im not connecting the gantry under the table.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by EddyCurrent View Post
    Best advice with regard to Z axis is to put rails on front plate, bit where the spindle mounts, and bearing blocks on back plate, i.e. opposite to what you've shown.
    Normally Eddy I'd 100% agree with you but with such short travel then no I'd go with something like how it's set out now. Thou I would have the bearings on the front plate lower with next to no overhang and extend the spindle down in the clamps. This will give full support to spindle/front plate from the rear plate.
    If longer travel then I'd set it out other way.

    Derek I wouldn't mix servos and steppers and go with same on all axis. Not that they can't mix but it keeps electrics all the same and there won't be much difference in price. If your going with servo's or even steppers for that matter then suggest you get a decent motion control card. Definately will need one for servo's to get decent performance out of them.

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  8. #7
    Any suggestions pal? I had read a post where you suggestion leadshine and some tricked up card from the US but I can't seem to find the thread

  9. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by D-man View Post
    Any suggestions pal? I had read a post where you suggestion leadshine and some tricked up card from the US but I can't seem to find the thread
    With servo's then Kinco's are ok. Regards Motion control then it's a no brainer for me it's the Cslabs Csmio-IP-S. It's just not cheap but by far the best in this price range.

    One more thing with frame I swap the sections around and make couple of length changes. I'd use single piece top rails from square section and rectangle section for lower pieces see pic to see what i mean.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #9
    Nice on Dean, I had originally drawn something similar in, but I was wondering if the extrusion would sit level incase a bit of warp creeped into it.

    The way I have it I thought may compensate for any un level beams or warping

  11. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by D-man View Post
    Nice on Dean, I had originally drawn something similar in, but I was wondering if the extrusion would sit level incase a bit of warp creeped into it.

    The way I have it I thought may compensate for any un level beams or warping
    No I wouldn't have it like you have at really because any bending or warping of the cross beams will directly affect the profile and rails and take away accurecy. I drew it without the cross beams more to show the single piece top rather than 2 pieces but other than that it's meant to be just same as you drew it.

    I wouldn't do it your way at all because it will make getting rails on same plane harder and any movement of cross beams will directly affect profile. The surface bed sits on isn't so critical as you will surface the bed parallel to the spindle but the surface the profile/rails sits on must be flat and on same plane each side or allow for the profile to be adjusted onto same plane.

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