Thread: Help with drill-Mill conversion
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17-06-2009 #41is that the locking bolts I can see at the back of the head casting?
Re: long drill and tap - quick n dirty fix
In your lathe with the appropriate tapping drill (6.8mm?), drill into a length of 3/8" bar , grind a small flat on the drill, insert it into the bar and dot-punch into the flat - it should hold well enough to drill into the quill
Similarly, drill a hole just small than the square end of your M8 tap and hammer the tap into it .
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17-06-2009 #42Re: long drill and tap - quick n dirty fix
In your lathe with the appropriate tapping drill (6.8mm?), drill into a length of 3/8" bar , grind a small flat on the drill, insert it into the bar and dot-punch into the flat - it should hold well enough to drill into the quill
Similarly, drill a hole just small than the square end of your M8 tap and hammer the tap into it .
Attached some pics of the progress so far. My brain must be playing tricks on me, I could have sworn it was 125mm last time I measured it. M8x100mm bolts on order, so see how it goes.
Seen a few other modded drills on the net and the ones that seem to work are like mine, with the X-Y table mounted on the base(lose the flexible table) and then lower the head to suit.
There will be no going back once I cut the pinch groove in the head casing..
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18-06-2009 #43My brain must be playing tricks on me, I could have sworn it was 125mm last time I measured it.
You'll need to mill/file a slot into the block to clear the end of the taper (the draw-screw must pull the taper into the quill - it's not just there to stop it falling out)
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18-06-2009 #44It'd have to be 125mm to screw into the quill ?
You'll need to mill/file a slot into the block to clear the end of the taper (the draw-screw must pull the taper into the quill - it's not just there to stop it falling out)
Decided to drill for both options just in case the key idea fails. May help someone else who wants to do this but dosnt have a lathe.
Started your drill extension holder tonite. should work fine. Just my poor machining skills letting me down now. Still practice makes perfect, (havent used a lathe for 15 years)
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20-06-2009 #45
Ok quick up date.
M5x100mm bolts arrived and modified the key to clear the chuck. Glad I didnt grind any off as I can now sill use the wedge to knock out the chuck.
Should make some good progress tomorrow as I've finally got a full day in the workshop :dance:
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21-06-2009 #46
Ok. drilling the quill has turned into a nightmare, made the drill extender and drilled it no problems, however I couldnt get a 6.8mm bit locally, so thought a 6.5 would be ok. However the tap was extremly tight.
So I measured the narrowest part of the thread on an M8 bolt and it was 7.2mm, Re drilled the quill with a 7mm bit but the tap still jams when only a quarter of the way in :sad:
Dose this sound correct or have I just got a useless tap? (new but a Machine Mart cheapy)
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21-06-2009 #47What thread exactly are you wanting to make?
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21-06-2009 #48So what pitch is the thread you require? 8mm 1.5=6.5mm drill.....I'm hoping you have an M8x1.0 tap for a 7mm drilled hole? Use cutting fluid it helps ;)
I have used cutting fluid as well
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21-06-2009 #49By my number crunching.. :D you have 0.25mm of thread left....Do you have a 9mm tap for round 2 :D
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21-06-2009 #50
M8 thread with a 1.5mm pitch?
I've been tapping a whole heap of holes for my recent CNC build. For an M8 thread with the more common 1.25mm pitch, a 6.8mm hole is the norm (you sure it's a 1.5mm pitch? as this might account for why your tap is getting stuck!)
http://www.efunda.com/designstandard...ewm_coarse.cfm
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