Thread: Help with drill-Mill conversion
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10-06-2009 #1
Uhmm. How do I say this.........
It dose fit in the lathe.I forgot the splined end was narrower than the 20mm shank at the taper. Just fits in far enough, about 25mm projecting from the chuck.
SORRY,SORRY, SORRY
Sounds like it has to reach up through the morse taper, past the taper knockout slot and then all the way up through the quill?
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14-06-2009 #2
Finally got some workshop time this evening and finished setting up the lathe. :dance:
Spent 30mins centering the quill in the 4 jaw chuck. What a nightmare!think Ive got it sorted now. (when I realised that 0.001" run out is F**k all) Ive drilled out the knockout slot to 10mm and created a start point for the tap drill.
The hole through the ER chuck is about 9mm , so the max bolt size I can use is M8, Problem is getting a drill bit and Tap that will reach the 150mm
required.......
Any one know of a source of long reach taps? or will i have to make up some sort of extension bar?
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14-06-2009 #3
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14-06-2009 #4Let me get this right... you're drilling out the quill to allow a draw bar through to pull the ER collet chuck into the quill... so what are you planning to tap? did I miss something?
Bill suggested drilling from the chuck end up into the quill and then use a bolt through the chuck to secure it (similar to some drill chucks)
So i need to to drill a 7.5mm hole in the quill and then tap it for M8, dose that make sense?
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14-06-2009 #5
Can't you just put a fancy nut through the taper knockout slot and save driling anything?
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15-06-2009 #6Can't you just put a fancy nut through the taper knockout slot and save driling anything?
Would a M6 be good enough?
Irving
Thanks for the info on inverters. just got one to play with
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15-06-2009 #7
M5 even, so long as you use a good quality screw and key. HT would be overkill, just avoid stainless and cheapies.
If you buy a box of screws you could torque one to destruction in a piece of scrap. Then you'd know
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