Thread: Help with drill-Mill conversion
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30-06-2009 #61
Square is square.
Acme is 29 degrees and usually imperial [ not always ]
Trapezoidal is 30 degrees and always metric
Let me have a look tomorrow to see what taps I have, definitely got 5/8" x 8 LH Acme but not sure on the rest.
.John S -
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01-07-2009 #62
This rather depends on the accuracy you are trying to achieve.
The software can add extra travel when you reverse direction but that means the slides have to be tight enough to resist side forces from the tool so only the nuts can move them. Once the slides are set tight you have to worry about spring in the system.
Alternatively use two nuts. If you lock them together then wear becomes your problem. Spring them together with sufficient force to resist the tool pressure and you need monster size motors to turn 'em.
If it was easy to eliminate backlash with cheap screws nobody would sell expensive screws
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01-07-2009 #63My question is how critical is it to completly eliminate backlash...
The critical bit is reducing the backlash/play/give/flex/strain/vibration/call-it-what-you-like it the whole machine down to workable level and working the machine to reduce the effect of the errors.
If you lock them together then wear becomes your problem. Spring them together with sufficient force to resist the tool pressure and you need monster size motors to turn 'em.
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01-07-2009 #64
Thanks for all the advice, Taken it all on board. From looking on here and the CNC zone I always planed to use servo motors, linear rails and ballscrews for the main machine, and now I know why.....
Still all good practice, dont know If I can justify ballscrews for this one. No point in having an ultra precise table if the head flexs all over the place. May be I should just get it working and then if its just the backlash thats an issue, I can sort it then.
Made the tap tonight and tried it on some plastic I had kicking around. Worked fine but I think the plastic is to springy and the tap wont cut the last bit for clearance, very tight over a 40mm length. Ive tryed tapping fuild and a drill but the end result is a very hot and shiney leadscrew, Still at least I know the best way to polish them now :clap:. I'll have to order some delrin,or try narrower sections.
Changing the subject, what is the best way to hone the dove tails on the slides? I've got them really smooth, with no play, except for the the first 30mm or so where i can feel an bump, Cant get the oil stone in and dont want to over do it by using a grinder.....If I carry on lapping it will both parts wear and then cause problems over the whole length?
Thanks again
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02-07-2009 #65
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02-07-2009 #66
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02-07-2009 #67
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02-07-2009 #68
You could try just lapping the parts together dry (i.e. degrease it and rub). Cast iron is fairly abrasive stuff so a few dozen cycles should polish the machining marks.
BTW Use proper 'way oil' e.g. Mobil vactra. (Keep that old can of Duckhams for the car use only ;) )
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02-07-2009 #69If you want to scrape the ways then a scraper is the best way forward....made from an old file or similar.
Requires manual dexterity and mastery of hand tools....not for the office workers :naughty:
You could try just lapping the parts together dry (i.e. degrease it and rub). Cast iron is fairly abrasive stuff so a few dozen cycles should polish the machining marks.
BTW Use proper 'way oil' e.g. Mobil vactra. (Keep that old can of Duckhams for the car use only ;) )
The best tool to scrap it with is a grinder......
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02-07-2009 #70Your typo? my implication :naughty:
Ever see the fanboy posts on cnczone where they all went mental and set about knocking the stuffing's out of their dovetails with grit lmao
You got me on the making tea strike.....Can't call em completely useless eh :D
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