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  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by silyavski View Post
    I still don't see how sb will shim properly 3000x1300 machine. I mean to make try to make the machine not relatively straight but absolutely straight, which are 2 very different things. Though for 95% of the people relatively straight is more than straight enough.
    Your fooling your self if you think you can build and more importantly measure to Absolute levels. Every DIY build is a compromise between accurecy and engineering abilty.

    Quote Originally Posted by mitchejc View Post
    Jazz, the way I see it the X rails don't have to be on the same horizontal plane as long as the two planes are parallel ie. if rail X1 is 2mm higher than X2 it must be 2mm higher everywhere along the length. There's probably other ways to do it but I epoxy casted a T shape reference surface on my base and used that to set up my Y and Z. The machine in the extreme example below will cut perfectly well as long as the y rails are parallel to the ref surface who's horizontal plane is parallel to the two x-planes.
    Agree completely but again your only has accurate as your reference surface and abilty to measure. Not every one as large granite surface table for reference surface to work or cast from and without one then how sure are you your reference surface is accurate.?


    Quote Originally Posted by Neale View Post
    If I had a surface plate 1.8x1m, I would consider scraping (proper engineers' scrapers and everything, I've used them before) the top of the rails to it. In my case, I was looking to take out a dip in the 100x50 box sections of something around 1.5mm. I don't know why it was that bad, whether the box section was warped when I bought it or if it is welding distortion or what, but it would need quite a lot of filler and/or filing to get that flat to acceptable limits, and it just ain't that easy to do. As pointed out, even if you could use a straight edge to get the top level along its length, measuring twist is really difficult even though the profile rail manufacturer's specs are pretty tight and you need to get it right (or at least consistent along the length of rail).
    It's all about having the right tools whether it's hard or not. With Precision straight edges and Engineers levels it aint that difficult. But here lies the problem becasue at DIY level 99% don't have or need these tools and the epoxy method with bridge makes it possible for less tooled up DIYers to achieve acceptable levels of accurecy for gantry router style machines.

    The key word here being ROUTER. . Remember these are mostly Gantry based router machines being spoke about and the nature of the beast dictates lower accurecy is acceptable and high precision accurecy unobtainable.!! . . . .Again Horses for courses and use which ever method gets the job done for you in the easiest way possible.!
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 31-01-2015 at 02:53 AM.

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