Use of epoxy for levelling

[Procato]

I agree, those methods are the usual processes but in the pursuit of more accuracy and better working methods degassing removes the micro non visible bubbles trapped within the liquid. The video above shows just how much air comes out of a small amount of carefully mixed resin. Without degassing you are basically pouring foam.
I haven't used west systems 105 epoxy and 209 hardener yet so I might be talking rubbish but I will try to video the degassing and levelling process when I get to that stage to see if it makes a difference or not.

[Boyan Silyavski]

It works without degassing but a tiny mistake like being in a hurry could mess the whole process. last time i was pouring WS epoxy i wanted to be able to degass it. And as i said somewhere earlier in the thread, passing one time with heat gun degassing is okeish but second time is asking for trouble, third time for sure will result in orange peel surface. So yes, degassing will be great.

[reefy86]

some really great guides here and has helped me feel more relaxed trying the epoxy method so thanks guys :)

just a couple of questions though...

1. how much weight can 5mm thick resin take before cracking ect.
2. if 90% of the time all ill be doing is engraving 3d designs in wood soft or hardwood such as oak and say the other 10% will be acrylic/thin aluminium, will the epoxy resin still be advisable?

cheers

ash

[Clive S]

some really great guides here and has helped me feel more relaxed trying the epoxy method so thanks guys :)

just a couple of questions though...

1. how much weight can 5mm thick resin take before cracking ect.
2. if 90% of the time all ill be doing is engraving 3d designs in wood soft or hardwood such as oak and say the other 10% will be acrylic/thin aluminium, will the epoxy resin still be advisable?

cheers

ash

You won't have any problems with the weight of the gantry on the epoxy check out my post #56 here http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/8197-...evelling/page2
.
If you are using steel it is a great way to get your rails on the same plane. ..Clive

[njhussey]

+1 ,on the above.

[reefy86]

thanks clive really helped alot :) so the best epoxy to use is the westsystem 209?

cheers

ash

[reefy86]

so in theory i should get the frame as level as a human can by hand using adjustment castors on the feet, then once thats as level as you can get it i then place the dam ontop of the frame (im using 25mm rails so my dam will be 65mm wide) then pour epoxy into the dam and let it level out then wait for about 2 weeks (to be safe) and then i can now bolt my rails ontop of the epoxy assuming its flat level?

cheers

ash

[Clive S]

I doesn't really matter if the machine is not level on the floor as the epoxy will level out like pouring water into a channel it will find it's own level. What is important is that you do not have any leeks in the moat I put a very thin bead of silicone all around the inside.
You will need it about 5mm thick. If you use MDF for the moat after the silicone you could put some Vaseline on the insides of the moat to stop the epoxy from sticking.

[reefy86]

thanks clive, do you mean the silicone has to be 5mm thick or the epoxy? i was going to use about 5mm anyways for the epoxy if so.

cheers

ash

[Clive S]

thanks clive, do you mean the silicone has to be 5mm thick or the epoxy? i was going to use about 5mm anyways for the epoxy if so.

cheers

ash

The silicone is only to stop any leeks so a very fine bead between the MDF and box section. Iff you have any leeks the job will fail