best hardwood for first 3d milling attempt and end grain vs side grain

**EddyCurrent** · 31-12-2014

When buying wood you need to buy the nearest thickness board to your final requirements. Cutting thicker boards into thinner ones generally always results in warping because thick wood has a higher moisture content in the middle. Sometimes if you can cut it, lay it flat, and put a heavy weight on top, it will dry out flat over a period of time, but you'd need some packers under the bottom and under the weight to allow air to circulate all around the wood.

**mike os** · 31-12-2014

take equal amounts off both faces

any fine grade wood should be fine, but for just "playing" with I would just use softwood

**EddyCurrent** · 31-12-2014

Originally Posted by mike os

take equal amounts off both faces

Might be okay in some cases but no good if you want to cut a board into two, say a 2 1/2" into two 1 1/4" also no good if book matching two halves.

Softwood is something I won't entertain, unless I'm knocking up a stud partition.

**Ger21** · 31-12-2014

The harder the wood, the cleaner it tends to cut.

**mike os** · 31-12-2014

agree, but the op want to try 3d... so probably going to crash somewhere a few times.... I don't see the point in wasting good wood, using more power and accelerating tool wear to "practice", you can do that when you have got somewhere close to wher you want to be

fruitwoods, yew etc..are probably the best, anything with a tight grain structure will usually machine well and hold fine detail

**JAZZCNC** · 01-01-2015

All thats been said plus Also good idea to bring the material into enviroment it's going to live and leave for while before cutting so it settles and adjusts to temps/moisture.

The longer and closer to the temp/moisture enviroment it's going to live before machining the more stable it will be.

**mark84** · 01-01-2015

Thanks for all the replies, very helpful.

**mitchejc** · 01-01-2015

Not sure if its available there but Jelutong is a wood that is often used for hand carving because its very fine grained for a relatively soft wood. Its not very expensive, cuts lovely on cnc roters and is easy on cutters. Its pretty bland looking though but maybe you can try it.

**Jester** · 01-01-2015

I milled in all sorts of hardwood. Oak is a nice finish, and also walnut. but so far the best finish ive had has been from sapele. Once it got varnished it turned very dark and very glossy, the varnish brought out the natural glossy finish of the wood.

What size pieces are you looking for and where abouts in the country are you. If your close i might have a few bits i can give you.