Thread: DIY Vacuum Fixtures
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11-01-2015 #1
Appreciate what your saying Dean, and i would suggest that a gas cylinder was used as opposed to a second hand compressor tank. The one i have is prestine internally.
Regards
Mike
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11-01-2015 #2
Yep I agree just don't weld it up.! . . Thats another playing with fire thing I've experienced first hand and very scary.! Pocket of gas in metal exploded and just looked like it had been shot with a bullet I shite my self. . .
Boyan I did some playing around with vacuum a while ago and found that the small pipe was ok if your just pulling and maintaining high vacuum but soon as the vac dropped IE drilling just a few holes the Vacuum would drop and part would loosen.
Noticed Larger pipe held longer and allowed more holes before dropping I think due to more volume thru the pipe but it didn't allow the same high vacuum.
So I'd say if your not cutting thru then small pipe for better higher vacuum and if you plan on cutting thru in a few places then larger volume needed.
I'm a fan of Vac pods they can be placed any where and can work around them, esp good for profiling.
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11-01-2015 #3
I will be welding a small threaded adaptor to the base to take a valve for the extraction pipe, but i cut the valve out with a 50mm hole saw and it's been sitting around for over a couple of month so should be OK.
The youtube vids i have seen for window and door manufacture seem to use the movable pad system with various stops for alignment.
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11-01-2015 #4
I will never let at once 6 people in my garage that are reciting "Bend, Bend..."
That was quite impressive collapse on a large scale.
This bellow is my dust separator, made from 200l tank which is 1mm thick. So my 2000w shop vac will not bend it at all when all closed. You can not lift the top either when vac is working, though it just rests there, is not screwed. Pads ring is from old yoga mat. Of course the compressor will pull much more vacuum than the vac cleaner.
By the way this thing works really well. The plastic conical thing is from Aliexpress.
What i did learn these days browsing the web, is that:
-from new to old some compressors worked 4 years non stop in that setup
-in order to work well, the compressor needs to have the pistons checked, the gaskets checked, the reed valves on the head checked and everything cleaned. Air filtered well at the input side. Plus liquid separator , if on a mill.
In fact i started preparing and first checked one compressor, which was in like new state, at least from outside. It was dirty there, the reed valves copper gasket was bad, so i ordered new sheet of copper. The valves were dirty, so wouldn't close well. Luckily the pistons seem new and the piston rings ok at first glance..
This is the biggest one i have/330LPM/, so maybe i will be using it for both purposes. I discovered that all that is needed is to leave the output open. Some people on the net say that even if it is closeed, the air is not building enough to stop the compressor.
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