New Build 1000x600x200mm (newbie)

[Noplace]

Heya everyone, I've been shy of posting any updates since last time because I'm afraid of all the judgement I will receive from you hehe. Mostly because it has been a rough half year of finding a good workshop to machine all my plans, unfortunately in my country the quality of workshops is pretty low compared to you guys. and I am no machinist so I don't have the skills nor the equipment to do it by myself. (but hopefully in the future)

So I hope whenever I post something please don't judge anything that is not square or straight or doesn't look machined well as my goal was to get this thing running and be able to cut even if not perfect the amount of knowledge and skill I have acquired from building this is a ton.
But of course any tips and constructive criticism is appreciated!

of course lots of knowledge and wisdom was gained from the posts of people in this forum. my plans was based on your comments plus other machines designs which were posted here. again its not the best but I think I'm satisfied with what I came up with.

It's not complete but almost all parts will be ready this week and I will start assembling everything.

I had a issue with shipping my spindle because china post takes forever to reach my country so the supplier shipped me another one which hopefully be received this week. ( I think the original shipment got lost, or maybe I'll receive it after a year! heh )


the first thing I did when I started is build the electronics panel so I have tested it before and got it all working, the only thing left is to test the VFD with the spindle and hopefully make it controlled via mach3 with the generous instructions from the above posters.

so for now a small update, here is a video of my x-axis one side testing with a drill. I have switched the frame from Alu T-Slots to steel square sections, it came out decent but might need adjustment

https://youtu.be/zZthFVKWcD0

[Clive S]

Well it seems to be coming along nicely don't be worried about any judgement as it is generally meant well to help you along the way.
If it was me I would drive the screws through belts with a 1:2 reduction as that might help with resonance etc. Keep up the good work. ..Clive

[Robin Hewitt]

I like driving through belts because it saves trying to line things up. However if you simply bolt the motor to then end of the screw and do not care how much it wobbles and twists, all you have to do is stop it turning and you can have a much better connection than you could possibly get through an expensive coupling :D

[Noplace]

Thanks guys will consider the suggestions.

now all i have remaining to machine is the motor plates, any advise on the designs ? the motor screw holes are not in correct position so please ignore that.

[routercnc]

Looking really good, well done.

Be aware that if you turn a stepper using a drill it will generate power (like an alternator or generator). If it is connected to the stepper driver board this can be a bad idea!

For motor mounting plates you need to have slots not holes so you can tension the belt. 20mm or so slot is a good start but you'll need to decide based on the standard belt lengths available and making sure you can tension it. There are some online belt length calculators available so make sure you use those and place the centre of the slot in the nominal position.

The motor plates are usually pocketed with the motor set into the plate allowing the drive belt to run free over the top surface. You've got the motor sitting flush with the rear surface so you are having to cut all the material away in the middle to allow the belt to run. Not saying your way won't work but its usually done the other way to keep some strength in the bracket.

[Noplace]

Looking really good, well done.

Be aware that if you turn a stepper using a drill it will generate power (like an alternator or generator). If it is connected to the stepper driver board this can be a bad idea!

For motor mounting plates you need to have slots not holes so you can tension the belt. 20mm or so slot is a good start but you'll need to decide based on the standard belt lengths available and making sure you can tension it. There are some online belt length calculators available so make sure you use those and place the centre of the slot in the nominal position.

The motor plates are usually pocketed with the motor set into the plate allowing the drive belt to run free over the top surface. You've got the motor sitting flush with the rear surface so you are having to cut all the material away in the middle to allow the belt to run. Not saying your way won't work but its usually done the other way to keep some strength in the bracket.

okay great I'll start working on that but if my plate is 20mm thick, the pocket depth would eat up the shaft length, so is it acceptable to have the pocket area maybe 10mm thick only for example?

[Clive S]

okay great I'll start working on that but if my plate is 20mm thick, the pocket depth would eat up the shaft length, so is it acceptable to have the pocket area maybe 10mm thick only for example?

Yes you only need a few mm to mount the motor. ..Clive

[JAZZCNC]

Heya everyone, I've been shy of posting any updates since last time because I'm afraid of all the judgement I will receive from you hehe.

Don't be afraid your doing a very nice job and we have seen much much much worse.!