New Build 1000x600x200mm (newbie)

**njhussey** · 03-03-2015

Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Make the Gantry sides drop to the inside of the ballscrew not the outside.? This will shorten the gantry width and reduce bearing plate width and cantilever making it stiffer.
It allows access from the outside to the ballnut for adjustment and greasing etc.

Make sure that you also think about how you are going to mount things like the ballscrew housings on, for example, the gantry sides.....(cough....don't ask me how I know!!) I'm using MGD16 ballnut housings which you can mount from the outside of the gantry endplates instead of some lower profile aluminium ones that I got from Aliexpress which I would have had to mount to the gantry side and then put the side on the gantry..............

**Noplace** · 03-03-2015

gents thanks a lot, I'm going to change a bit to make it more rigid, I have an idea on my mind I'll work on, I just hope its good enough

**Noplace** · 03-03-2015

I made a quick change to the gantry sides , reduced the width since its just going to be a waste with unnecessary cost and also hindering rigidity. gantry sides are now inside, will have to figure how to design the ballscrew holders with this design, but at least its not compromising (hopefully)

**Clive S** · 03-03-2015

Try and keep the gantry sides all one piece like Jazzcnc first pic. Clive

**njhussey** · 03-03-2015

Just have the sides going straight down like Jazz showed in his last post, you're making it uneccessarily complicated. To make the gantry really stiff ideally you'd drop it so it sits on the plate the X axis carriages...

(Clive beat me to it...)

**JAZZCNC** · 03-03-2015

What Profile are you using that those rails sit onto because the rails look nearly as wide as the profile which if 20mm or 30mm the profile it is far too weak.

That or things are very much out of scale which makes designing very difficult.!

Your change is weak and complicated so I wouldn't take that route.

**Noplace** · 04-03-2015

Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

What Profile are you using that those rails sit onto because the rails look nearly as wide as the profile which if 20mm or 30mm the profile it is far too weak.

That or things are very much out of scale which makes designing very difficult.!

Your change is weak and complicated so I wouldn't take that route.

It's 40x80mm

**Noplace** · 04-03-2015

How does this look?

**JAZZCNC** · 04-03-2015

Originally Posted by Noplace

How does this look?

Much better but again you don't have much clearence between base and lower gantry so just becareful you don't limit your options.
What size are those rails.? They must be 30mm if profile is 40 and 30mm is massive OTT.

You havent shown a view with how the bearing plates fit with regards gantry cross piece, don't get caught out with common Gotcha of not beaing able to get to bearing bolts.!!

With you have such short travel distance then I change my statement about having Z rails on front plate. With this short stubby design you'll be better with them on the rear plate as you will hardly ever extend below the bottom of the rear plate when spindle is attached. In this case you'll need to go up more than down for tool clearence so you may need longer rear plate.

I suggest you continue with design and draw in the rest of the Z axis with spinlde to get an idea of what cut travel you'll have available.

**Noplace** · 05-03-2015

unfortunatly like an idiot i bought the rails 2 months ago while having a vague idea of what I want, so I have to work it in.

working on the design, just a quick update on the side showing how the rails and ballscrew work together, i had to redesign a bit: