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[Clive S]

I have to work the next 7 days strait so i will not be able to physically work on the machine but i will be reading about the setup and maybe i missed something. I'll let you know how it goes.
A side note: I did notice the X and Y steppers get warm when its on for more than an hour or so. I set them all for half power when stopped.

It is normal for them to get warm so that's fine. ..Clive

[shipper506]

A thought has just occurred to me (and before you ask no it didn't hurt much LOL). On the breakout board should i be able to take a volt ohm meter and verify the pin numbers are correct?

[shipper506]

PART !:
all of the limit switches work and the E-stop works. I have no motor control - i will attempt to explain how everything is connected and show pictures - maybe i'm missing something. the schematics i used to wire everything is pic-1, 2, 3 and 4 (exception is there is a power supply for each motor driver)

[Clive S]

PART !:
all of the limit switches work and the E-stop works. I have no motor control - i will attempt to explain how everything is connected and show pictures - maybe i'm missing something. the schematics i used to wire everything is pic-1, 2, 3 and 4 (exception is there is a power supply for each motor driver)

Looking at the bob where the 5V power is connected does it need 5V connecting to the VDD terminal ? ..Clive

[JAZZCNC]

Remove the wire going to the Enable on the drives you don't need that. This won't be your problem as it's not going to ground but still remove it.

Other than that it looks correctly wired. So if your still not getting any motor movement then you must have the control software set wrong.
The VDD Clive mentions is if you use 10V I think and you have to change a jumper on the board if using 10V.

One more thing is take off the tie wrap cable ties. It's not a good idea to strap signal wires together with power wires as you'll get cross contamination on the signals from EMF electrical noise.
Also if the wire your using for the motors isn't shielded and the shield correctly grounded then you could end up with problems from electrical noise causeing false e-stops or worse missed steps etc.

Show some screen shots of how you set the Motor outputs in control software.

[Clive S]

The VDD Clive mentions is if you use 10V I think and you have to change a jumper on the board if using 10V.

Of course I stand to be corrected by my mentor but I have a similar bob (but not the same) and that has to be connected to enable the bob. ..Clive

Edit: looking at the schematic and the picture of the bob they are both different in that the schematic shows : 5V gnd gnd 10V but the pictures shows 5V gnd gnd 5V

[routercnc]

I have exactly that BOB - it came free with the DQ860MA drivers which I notice the OP is also using.



I used the 5V (upper most one in the picture) and adjacent ground to supply the BOB (from a 5V feed from the PC power supply). When it was switched on out of interest I also checked the voltage at VDD (lower one in the picture) and it was also 5V.

Board worked fine and from what I can tell in your pictures was wired up how you have it wired up (except i didn't use the enable connection on the drives).

The reason I ended up using it (for now) was because the other one I bought -

could not be made to work despite checking with scope, multi-meter, all sorts of diagnosis. My conclusion was that it was a faulty board. So whilst you run through all the good advice about settings etc. (which hopefully is the problem) you should be prepared for the board to be faulty if all else is ruled out.