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  1. #1
    Thanks guys....great input. I can't solder brass nuts, because it a single sided board ....and the solder side is on the wrong side for the nut to go on :-(

    silyavski ...I'd forgot that I've actually got one of those tools lying around somehwre (probably in my loft), I'll dig it out & give it a go!

  2. #2
    Although the link to the intended rivets gives a reference (h) for the wall thickness the seller does not specify a size. Thread depth for 3mm thread is 0.3mm so it is going to have to be about 0.5mm wall thickness to give you a bit of lee way.
    Can to send a quick sketch on how you need to use the holes for fixing and why you cant solder a nut/plate to the board.
    Regards
    Mike

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  4. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by mekanik View Post
    Can to send a quick sketch on how you need to use the holes for fixing and why you cant solder a nut/plate to the board.
    For now, I'd rather not post my drawings, but I can't solder a nut becuase like I say it's single sided pcb ....and on the copper side of the pcb, the enclosure will be butting up against the pcb surface.....if I soldered a nut on that particular side, then there's be a gap equal to the height of the nut that was soldered onto the pcb (which would look awful)
    Last edited by HankMcSpank; 20-04-2015 at 06:43 PM. Reason: Particularly Mary Hinge.

  5. #4
    Sorry can't see your logic there, even if you use the hollow rivet method i think you will find that they protrude from the board also, and forgive me if i am wrong but all the pcb assemblies i have seen the wires from the components also protrude through the board with a solder fillet.
    But i am only a klanky so what do i know.
    Good luck on whatever you decide.
    Regards
    Mike
    Last edited by mekanik; 20-04-2015 at 07:25 PM.

  6. #5
    Whilst not the same project at all, this guy has the same challenge & you can therefore get a flavour...

    http://www.cycfi.com/2014/08/neo-base-boards/

    ...mine will be a similar shaped pcb to that - and one of these covers goes atop ..... http://www.themusiczoo.com/product/1...-Covers-White/ )

    The logic of using the rivet is that it probably sits proud less than 1mm on the top surface (ok, so I said in my former post that the enclosure butts up against the pcb.....indeed it does, but at the perimeter only, there's probably about 1mm of 'head' clearance where the holes are)
    Last edited by HankMcSpank; 20-04-2015 at 07:38 PM. Reason: Unfeasibly Mary Hinge.

  7. #6
    I know you don't have a lathe so this is probably not going to help but i think the best solution would be a top hat type of insert drilled and taped 3mm the flange could be 0.5mm thick so minimal protrusion, clearance hole in the board to locate it while soldering top hat in place.
    Regards
    Mike

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  9. #7

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