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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by cropwell View Post
    I have the mandrel for the setting tool.
    Whilst you can buy and use a Riv-Nut setting tool all you need is a flat steel bar with a hole through it and roughed up a bit on the side presented to the Riv-Nut head, preventing slipping when setting.
    Use a bolt or bit of threaded bar through the flat bar and fully engaged with the Riv-Nut threads.
    With lubed washers & well lubed nut on top, tighten nut whilst ensuring the bolt doesn't turn and set the Riv-Nut to the tension or height of your choice.
    I use 60% Moly paste for the lube as it gives the best possible friction reduction and thus translates as much torque as possible into tension.

    - Nick

  2. #2
    My idea was to solder the insert, removing the serations means you can have a smaller hole in the board so the board is stronger. the inserts could be machined to practically any size you want.
    Regards
    Mike

  3. #3
    Brass bar stock is cheap enough, I suspect you could knock out a few dozen in an hour once you have the tooling and a procedure set for your lathe.

    The topic title does lead one to think down a riveting specific mechanical route ;-)

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by magicniner View Post
    Brass bar stock is cheap enough, I suspect you could knock out a few dozen in an hour once you have the tooling and a procedure set for your lathe.

    The topic title does lead one to think down a riveting specific mechanical route ;-)
    You are correct the OP was looking for an off the shelf solution and your method is proven so it looks like the best choice in that regard, have my doubts about the rivet method only because of the wall thickness of the hollow rivet, the method i offered puts no strain @ all on the PCB. if OP sends me some of the inserts i pointed too i will gladly machine them to the size required.
    regards
    Mike

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