Denford Triac VMC with ATC Conversion / Fix

[m_c]

Yes, you can use Mach3 and 4 in Demo mode. Mach3 has a few features disabled (run from here is main one, but there are a couple others I've forgotten) and has a limit on the number of lines of G-code it'll run. Mach 4 just stops working after a random amount of time and needs restarted.
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Regarding testing the servos, find the two wires to the drives that provided the +/-10V input, power up the drives, and using a 1.5V battery in series with about a 100ohm resistor (you can do it without the resistor, but it provides some protection if you happen to try connecting to the wrong wires/pins) connect it across the +/-10V input wires, then try reversing the connection. The servos should turn reasonably slowly in both directions, which lets you know the servos and drives are working.
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Another option for a Controller, would be a Dynomotion KFlop + Kanalog combo (along with possibly a Konnect to gain more IO). The Kanalog gives you differential encoder inputs along with analogue inputs and outputs, while still retaining the option to use step/dir. However it is a more complicated controller to setup, and you have order direct from over the pond.
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Personally, before you commit to buying a controller, I'd suggest making up a list (I make a spreadsheet) of all the inputs and outputs you're going to need, and what type of input/output i.e. analogue/digital/voltage, along with anything you may like to add in the future.
If you post the list up here, I'm sure people on here will quite happily check it over. Going from your initial list, things like limit switches don't need connected to the controller. Connect them up via the E-stop circuit, with a manual override push switch to bypass them if you do run into them. When you first start, it seems like a good idea to monitor every single switch, but in reality/use, you soon realise it's not needed.
Actually having scanned over your list again, I suspect the top limit switches should actually be the homing switches/sensors, as you also mention over limit switches further down.

[Chaz]

Yes, you can use Mach3 and 4 in Demo mode. Mach3 has a few features disabled (run from here is main one, but there are a couple others I've forgotten) and has a limit on the number of lines of G-code it'll run. Mach 4 just stops working after a random amount of time and needs restarted.
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Regarding testing the servos, find the two wires to the drives that provided the +/-10V input, power up the drives, and using a 1.5V battery in series with about a 100ohm resistor (you can do it without the resistor, but it provides some protection if you happen to try connecting to the wrong wires/pins) connect it across the +/-10V input wires, then try reversing the connection. The servos should turn reasonably slowly in both directions, which lets you know the servos and drives are working.
.
Another option for a Controller, would be a Dynomotion KFlop + Kanalog combo (along with possibly a Konnect to gain more IO). The Kanalog gives you differential encoder inputs along with analogue inputs and outputs, while still retaining the option to use step/dir. However it is a more complicated controller to setup, and you have order direct from over the pond.
.
Personally, before you commit to buying a controller, I'd suggest making up a list (I make a spreadsheet) of all the inputs and outputs you're going to need, and what type of input/output i.e. analogue/digital/voltage, along with anything you may like to add in the future.
If you post the list up here, I'm sure people on here will quite happily check it over. Going from your initial list, things like limit switches don't need connected to the controller. Connect them up via the E-stop circuit, with a manual override push switch to bypass them if you do run into them. When you first start, it seems like a good idea to monitor every single switch, but in reality/use, you soon realise it's not needed.
Actually having scanned over your list again, I suspect the top limit switches should actually be the homing switches/sensors, as you also mention over limit switches further down.

Thanks. Ive bought the CSLabs IP-A already. It should arrive tomorrow and hopefully I can get some movement this weekend. Theoretically I could get a fair bit of progress unless I run into some issues. The ATC needs a few parts but if I can get basic movement, Ill be OK with that. There are 2 sets of switches from what I can see on the drawing, one set is absolute limit switches and then the others are Datum / Zero. On a 3D printer the absolute limit ones would have been referred to as the + limits and - limit is normally the Zero position.

Also agree, dont need a lot connected to get basic movement and will wire in the bits that I need, as I need it.

[Chaz]

OK, so some progress.

Completed:-

Converted most of the power system to single phase. Need to still sort out the coolant pump however.
Removed the old PC to make space for the CS Labs controller.
Looked at a lot of the wiring, for a long time.
Worked out that from the 3 Axis connectors that used to go to the old PC, I can basically input and output to that 15 Way D sub connector to get encoder signals out and speed reference in as well as satisfying some of the logic requirements.
Worked out where the Spindle Drive 0-10V can be connected to on the standard block. Some of the logic that enables the drive I am not sure about yet.

Fairly happy with the progress although so much to look at and find on other sheets / cross reference, takes ages.

All going to plan, I should be able to move all drives and start the spindle tomorrow unless there is a unit faulty or something goes wrong (hope not).

Will use a laptop at first to setup the CS Labs unit and get going until I can build a PC into the cabinet. Not sure about space as the CSLabs unit takes a fair whack of space, might make another plan.

[Chaz]

Fun fun fun ...

[m_c]

Looks like you're making reasonable progress.
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One thing I meant to mention in my last post, is are you sure the coolant pump will run on single phase? Just because it's marked to work on 240V, it will most likely be for 3 phase 240V.
AC induction motors that run from single phase require a start or run capacitor, whereas 3 phase don't, as well as having different internal coil wiring, so it's highly unlikely the same motor will run from both 3 phase and single phase.

[Chaz]

Looks like you're making reasonable progress.
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One thing I meant to mention in my last post, is are you sure the coolant pump will run on single phase? Just because it's marked to work on 240V, it will most likely be for 3 phase 240V.
AC induction motors that run from single phase require a start or run capacitor, whereas 3 phase don't, as well as having different internal coil wiring, so it's highly unlikely the same motor will run from both 3 phase and single phase.

Oh, not sure actually. Will leave it for now, will try it later and see. Else a small VFD might be required.

[i2i]

For the coolant pump you will need to reset the connections in the motor input to delta and run it from a single phase 240v to 3 phase 220v inverter, as it will be set to star to run of 3 phase 380 - 415v atm.

The spindle drive has a connector block 1-7, 1 is the 10v supply you can leave this alone, 2 (min) is common for the 0-10v input, 3 (i/p) is the 0-10v input to control the speed. So pins 2 and 3 are the 0-10v input for the sprint board.

PS. these connections have a high voltage present on them so do not touch them, or use a grounded 0-10v signal as this will damage the sprint board. You must use a dc isolated 0-10v signal to run this drive.

Connections 5 and 7 are the run command and need to be connected together to run the drive, this is done by energising the SGR (spindle go relay). All other connections can be left alone.

[Chaz]

For the coolant pump you will need to reset the connections in the motor input to delta and run it from a single phase 240v to 3 phase 220v inverter, as it will be set to star to run of 3 phase 380 - 415v atm.

The spindle drive has a connector block 1-7, 1 is the 10v supply you can leave this alone, 2 (min) is common for the 0-10v input, 3 (i/p) is the 0-10v input to control the speed. So pins 2 and 3 are the 0-10v input for the sprint board.

PS. these connections have a high voltage present on them so do not touch them, or use a grounded 0-10v signal as this will damage the sprint board. You must use a dc isolated 0-10v signal to run this drive.

Connections 5 and 7 are the run command and need to be connected together to run the drive, this is done by energising the SGR (spindle go relay). All other connections can be left alone.

Thanks. How do I do this isolation?

The CS Labs mentions this, is this the same thing?

"Another important assumption was simplicity of installation. CSMIO/IP-A does not require any external electronics for proper operation. Inputs/outputs signals are inside optically isolated, filtered, protected against short circuit, overheating etc. Of course, all I/O signals are adjusted to industry standard 24V. The device is enclosed in a compact cover, mounted on a DIN-rail, what makes that mechanical and electronic installation in a control cabinet takes less time and is even simpler. "

[Chaz]

For the coolant pump you will need to reset the connections in the motor input to delta and run it from a single phase 240v to 3 phase 220v inverter, as it will be set to star to run of 3 phase 380 - 415v atm.

The spindle drive has a connector block 1-7, 1 is the 10v supply you can leave this alone, 2 (min) is common for the 0-10v input, 3 (i/p) is the 0-10v input to control the speed. So pins 2 and 3 are the 0-10v input for the sprint board.

PS. these connections have a high voltage present on them so do not touch them, or use a grounded 0-10v signal as this will damage the sprint board. You must use a dc isolated 0-10v signal to run this drive.

Connections 5 and 7 are the run command and need to be connected together to run the drive, this is done by energising the SGR (spindle go relay). All other connections can be left alone.

Are the connections not 4 and 5 for enable? I can see relay SFR and GR there needed to enable. Connection 7 on mine looks like one of the tacho connections.