Thread: Wooden CNC
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30-07-2015 #1
I know a lot of people disapprove of wooden CNC, but I've set my heart on the Sidewinder, I've recieved the plans and started cutting the parts.
the problem I have is, on the sidwinder it uses
1/2inch -10 5 start. Lead screws and couplers. But searching for these I've drawn a blank, and are only available from the states and p&p is stupid money.
please could someone advise me of another way around this.
im ok working with wood,but anything concerning lead screws etc I struggle
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Are these what you are looking for. http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/cata...?q=lead++srews
or http://www.leadscrewsandballscrews.c...elTBoCDknw_wcB
.
You don't need imperial screws metric is fine
What do you intend to cut with this machine?..Clive
The more you know, The better you know, How little you know
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30-07-2015 #3
Thanks I will take a look.
i make toy Box's and just wanted to engrave names etc on the lids or front panel.
Mdf if what I work with.
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30-07-2015 #4
Ther are 2 ways you can go, one is to use Trapeziodal leadscrew which is the closest to the stuff they're linking to or the better solution will be to get ball screws from China. The trouble with the Trapeziodal is that you'll struggle to get enough speed to cut wood and that backlash creeps into the lead nuts due to wear so you're constantly adjusting them.
It's easy enough to specify the ballscrews you want to someone as all you need is the length and the machining you want on the ends. I'm not too sure who the current favourite supplier is, I think I've seen the name Fred banded about but I'm sure someone will come along and chip in shortly....
THe ballscrew I'd recomend is a 1610 with BK & BF end supports. The data sheets for these are freely available on the internet, just google them. When specifying the machining I'd add at least 15mm to the F dimension (I think!!) so that you've enough space to fit your pulley/coupling or whatever you're using to connect to your stepper.
With regards to your steppers and drivers, I'd recomend these http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/stoc...tor-48577.html and drivers these http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/elec...ion/em806.html I realise that the drivers are expensive but I can almost guarantee that you'll want to upgrade once you've got your machine working and have hit the limitations of it and these will be transferable. For the BOB then I'm not too familiar with the cheaper end as I'm using a CSMIO IP-M which is a fantastic bit of kit but quite expensive. I believe CNC4you do some good cheap ones, you'll need a 4 axis one at least as you're using slaved steppers on your X (or Y as they call it in the US) axis http://www.cnc4you.co.uk/Breakout-Board-and-PSU%27s
Hope this helps....
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30-07-2015 #5
Thank you so so much for taking the time out to explain it, I really appreciate it.
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30-07-2015 #6
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5 starts with a Delrin nut? I remember those, I have one somewhere, marvellously tight on the nut and smooth as silk.
RS used to sell them, search RS for lead screw.
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30-07-2015 #8
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It is starting to get to you to. I used to be really helpful and typed long explanations about why things like MDF routers were a terrible idea, why you really needed a milling machine to cut aluminium, why 200 steps/rev was a really poor choice, why 64 microsteps was going to make things worse not better and so on. But like beating your head against a brick wall it helps no one and it is nice when you stop
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30-07-2015 #10
I'm sorry for asking advice about the wooden CNC if it pisses so many people of, I thought forums were meat to help and advise people who are interested in the topic.
The reason I want to build a wooden CNC. Is it's the only thing I am able to work with, I want to build the project on my own. I have the tools to work with wood. 4 years ago I woke up in a hospital bed, to cut a long story short and to save boring anyone, I'd had two massive strokes and been in a coma for 11 weeks, couldn't walk or talk still can't, but I can move my arms.
So it's easy for me to get my son to cut the big parts from wood, because neither of us know two things about working with metal.
So no worries I won't be on here again, so you won't be banging no heads against no walls.
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