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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by eurikain View Post

    Sounds good. But, what kind of clamps are you talking about ? Can you give me an example ? Maybe I can ask the cutter to surface the steel ? I'll give them a call tomorrow and ask what they can do to minimize the distortion effect due to heat. Watergate cutting would probably solve this issue. Post-heating / pressing the plates as well (?). But as you said, a good rubber hammer and clamps will do it with enough patience.
    No need for water jet cutting. cause the plate itself is not straight in the planar dimension.

    talking about gantry


    What i am saying is that wyou will need big woodworking clamps to clamp together the front plate to the cut of the up and down plates. As the cut will be straight you have to push well the fron and back plate so they are flat against that edges. Which could be a challenge even with clamps . Do you get what i mean? You may be will need a press and then clamp. But when you have them at hand you will see.

    Cause if you dont clamp them well against that edge prior to soldering, you will need to epoxy level below the rails.
    Last edited by Boyan Silyavski; 24-08-2015 at 08:21 PM.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  2. #2
    Alright I understand what you are saying now :) !

    But a more general understanding of what you are saying is (correct me if I'm wrong):

    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post
    If you go with round rails then make a simpler square profile structure, no need to make that laser cut monster
    +
    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post
    Cause if you dont clamp them well against that edge prior to soldering, you will need to epoxy level below the rails.
    = Forget the IKEA-like nuts and bolts to fasten the plates. Just weld it together. May be make bigger joints so I have larger spots to weld.

    ?

  3. #3
    @toomast: This is sort of embarrassing, but after applying steel 304 to all my parts (except standard parts like leadscrews and stuff) solid works calculates 280kg (where 57 kg for Z axis)......... oO ?? Is that even possible ?
    Last edited by eurikain; 25-08-2015 at 11:09 AM.

  4. #4
    Important updates:

    Following Boyan's advice, I am switching to a new Z / Y / gantry design, adapting my old one, removing nuts and bolts. I am also switching to ALUMINIUM instead of steel, as this thing is way too heavy. The new design lightens it but going to aluminium will be the solution. I'll be using 20mm sheets, unless you guys think 15mm is better to reduce weight. I'll be adding pockets at some places to lighten the whole thing.

    I called the cutting company. They said parts will be water jet cut (I have no choice on that, but no big deal, I've got good prices anyway) with .25mm accuracy.

    I keep the round rods, no changes on that. Instead of being supported by profiles, they will be supported by M8 bolts every 70mm plus at both ends.

    Here are the pictures of the Z axis, evaluated to 17kg, but that should decrease with pocketing.
    Complete Z.

    Z without front plate.

    Cheers.
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  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by eurikain View Post
    Important updates:

    Following Boyan's advice, I am switching to a new Z / Y / gantry design....

    What are you doing right now is Not following my advice. Of course its your machine, i am just trying to help. Seems you a missing my biggest point. What i told you before:

    Keep the design with square rails! Save from all else. Dont compromise on that. Dont exchange that for a vacation



    Ok i understand - expensive, you want to change the design to round rails. Then read some similar build logs and design much lighter and simpler frame.


    Here is my advice:

    -make the Z strong. 20mm aluminum plate is Not strong enough if not braced. Ideal will be 12-15mm steel plate, braced and done like#8 here where i explain much better and simpler Z design with the same effort

    -make gantry from profiles cut on a Rage saw and soldered. gantry sides also. Look my second project in signature for the gantry sides / 100x100 profile/ Design all machine from one profile, say 80x80x4mm or 100x100x3mm , no fancy plates and crap where you waste money. Order 6m steel box profiles, cut all on Rage saw and solder.

    From here you will save the money for the square rails. Difference between square rails and other type of linear movement is like from Ferrari compared to Trabant


    -My direct advice is follow my first build and change gantry sides like i did them on my second. Thats the cheapest and strongest machine at the same time possible.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  6. #6
    Wal's Avatar
    Lives in Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 15-12-2024 Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 491. Received thanks 71 times, giving thanks to others 29 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by eurikain View Post
    I keep the round rods, no changes on that. Instead of being supported by profiles, they will be supported by M8 bolts every 70mm plus at both ends.
    Stop. Think about that. Then think about it again and again until this crazy idea is banished from your head..!

    (Out of morbid curiosity, how were you ever going to make that work..?)

    Wal.

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to Wal For This Useful Post:


  8. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by eurikain View Post
    @toomast: This is sort of embarrassing, but after applying steel 304 to all my parts (except standard parts like leadscrews and stuff) solid works calculates 280kg (where 57 kg for Z axis)......... oO ?? Is that even possible ?
    Yeah, thats more like it. Steel is heavy stuff.
    I see you have a lot of feedback with good advice. It is not easy to decide the correct path ;)

  9. #8
    Sounds good, I'll think about it and rethink everything :)

    @Wal: It works in SW :) I just didn't think steel was going to be that heavy x) Obviously this is due to the size of the machine, not much about the thickness of the steel. 1300mm Y travel implies at least 1700mm gantry width. Using 100x100x3 profiles will definitely be the key to lightness :)

  10. #9
    Using 100x100x3 profiles will definitely be the key to lightness
    I would go for a thicker profile say 5mm so that you can tap it ok. I used 60x60x5 profile
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  11. #10
    Wal's Avatar
    Lives in Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 15-12-2024 Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 491. Received thanks 71 times, giving thanks to others 29 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by eurikain View Post
    @Wal: It works in SW :) I just didn't think steel was going to be that heavy
    Euri, I'm talking about supporting the rails with 8mm bolts... That just sounds like a really bad idea to me. How are you proposing to make this work without introducing kinks into the rails as you torque them up? Fair enough, if you could guarantee that each and every tapped hole in the plate was IDENTICAL and furthermore the tapped holes in the rails were IDENTICAL then (despite it still being a really bad idea) it probably could work, but why? Why why why..? This is about the silliest way of doing it..! Okay, mounting the rails on blue-tack would be sillier, but not by much. Just think about it for a moment - I'm not trying to disparage, but to me this method makes no sense at all..!!

    Wal.

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