Desktop size steel welded router 3 axis

[Tom J]

I managed to get 0.4mm off the sag, better than nothing, will use the technique like those who do not machine the profile or base. Simply will use filler gauge - industrial sheet in the middle to compensate - do not want to have tension on the bearing block while is sliding from middle towards end.


After welding so many frames came up with solution - there is not substitute for slow welding with min heat. Mean the welding bed have to be short and fully cooled before we weld again near by.
I put all theory to the bin with current setting to metal thickness and speed wire on MIG.
I use Clarke MIG TEC230 Turbo which is capable to weld up to 7 mm on max setting (switch pos.6)
My profile is 2-2.5mm with plates 5mm and I use pos.3 - current/power and wire speed min as possible to stop splatter but fast enough to get good constant sound (not like a shooting gun)

[Tom J]

Here is where design doesn't match reality - X drive motor bracket doesn't make the belt tight, I made all the parts in Solid Works myself - using vernier rather than dimensions data and with belt 295mm long error was like 5mm.
No big deal - 1hr+ lost for fabrication.

Here is the gantry. X motor bracket I will made longer and than will cut slots for adjustments. Lesson learnt

[Tom J]

Another fabrication day.
Done some welding, this time I used 0.6mm wire for trial. Have to say that I am happy with results as my profile thicknes is 2.5mm and other plates are 5mm at this stage.

Welding is all about heat control and avoiding distortion.
Here is my setting for 0.6mm MIG

All major welding is done I believe. Cable chain-carier, table top, sensor will be bolted.
Here is some shots from today:

[Tom J]

Time for Y axis drive. Gantry legs will be connected under the bed by flat steel 50x5mm.
I will use only one ballscrew for moving the gantry as this is desktop size machine (travel distance from left to right is 300mm, forward and backwards only 220mm).
I sacrificed 80mm of travel on Y for bigger distance between bearing block - stiffness won.

Had to fabricate Ballscrew nut bracket today - picture later.
Than I can center the ballscrew mount (front and back) so there is no tension on screw when turns backwards/forward.
A lot of steps in fabrication depends on previous - all related. Can not jump forward without doing something which have to be done first. Sometimes I loose the plot and do something what shouldn't be doing at that time like - pick up for sensors:

or sensor bracket/s

[JAZZCNC]

It's the little details that eat the time but they also make the difference between just OK machine and great machine. This is well on way to being great machine so keep it up mate and no rushing.

[Tom J]

Thanks Jazz, SolidWorks helps a lot, I print the template before I drill any hole and cat any shape, use automatic puncher to be precise. Can not wait to the end.

[JAZZCNC]

Thanks Jazz, SolidWorks helps a lot, I print the template before I drill any hole and cat any shape, use automatic puncher to be precise. Can not wait to the end.

Yep I do the same paper and Spray mount it's priceless.!. . I even do the same On cnc machine some times when cutting parts out of large sheet just to be sure they'll fit and not waste material or clash with clamps etc. I then write Tap sizes etc for holes on sheet to remove chances of error etc.

[AndyGuid]

Thanks Jazz, SolidWorks helps a lot, I print the template before I drill any hole and cat any shape, use automatic puncher to be precise. Can not wait to the end.

Yep I do the same paper and Spray mount it's priceless.!. . I even do the same On CNC machine some times when cutting parts out of large sheet just to be sure they'll fit and not waste material or clash with clamps etc. I then write Tap sizes etc. for holes on sheet to remove chances of error etc.

Thanks chaps, for a desk based worker like me those are brilliant tips! I hadn't realised the benefits of an automatic puncher and I hadn't thought of printing a template. Now to see if the free version of Sketch-Up can print to scale? And find out what sort of spray mount to use?
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"An automatic center punch is a hand tool used to produce a dimple in a workpiece (for example, a piece of metal). It performs the same function as an ordinary center punch but without the need for a hammer. When pressed against the workpiece, it stores energy in a spring, eventually releasing it as an impulse that drives the punch, producing the dimple. The impulse provided to the point of the punch is quite repeatable, allowing for uniform impressions to be made." https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_center_punch

[Tom J]

Got problem with proxy sensor in X axis - not too much room to fit.
Any recommendation for flat body type and 1-2mm range PNP NC like that: