Lathe suggestions?

[Neale]

Not sure when "tomorrow" is (might have been today, Friday?) but if anyone is around Saturday, I'm on the SMEE stand, probably standing next to the spark eroder. I was there today as well, but no reason why anyone would have recognised me.

I was having a look at the Warco lathes myself. I bought a second-hand British "toolroom" machine a little while ago, and still wonder whether a new similar size (and similar price) Warco lathe would have been a better choice. I was more interested in the bigger floor-standing machines so can't really comment on bench-mount lathes. I would also be looking for things like imperial/metric screwcutting which might not be on everyone's list. Whatever the machine, I'd find it difficult to live without a QCTP, and now my lathe had one, DRO. Makes the whole imperial/metric issue redundant (except for screwcutting).

Thread dial indicator - my lathe has a metric leadscrew, and for the TDI to work correctly for all the threads available on the gearbox, you need three different wormwheels for it. Fortunately, my favourite threads are covered by the one on there as this is one of the few accessories missing. Imperial leadscrews and threads generally seem to work fine without this fiddly detail.

[routercnc]

Hi Mike,
That's good info on the separate shafts, I'll see if that is available in my price range.

Hi Nick,
I'm starting to see where you are coming after today - totalled up a few goodies, QCTP, DROs, tailstock chuck, tailstock live centre, range of tools . . .it runs into hundreds of pounds. So I need to think about the whole package before I decide.

Hi Neale,
Apologies, I had to leave work very much later than planned today so it was a whistle stop tour, making sure I at least had a good look on the Warco stand, then back home again before my passout expired. I don't think I even walked around the whole show as I didn't see the spark eroder this year. So very sorry I didn't seek out the SMEE stand.


By chance I bumped into an old friend who happened to own a Warco lathe (WM240B). This is cheaper than the models I posted in post#1, is very slightly smaller, does not have the electronic variable speed (all belt changes), but in the end would probably do the same sort of jobs that I would need. So for the price of the more expensive lathe I could have this one with all the toys thrown in. In terms of thread cutting he asked whether I would really do that much and if required you can add a die holder to the tailstock if the thread is on the end of the work, which it often is. I was starting to get drawn to this 240B model then he added that he had thought about upgrading to an AC motor and invertor to get more torque when running slower. Well that feature is already on the more expensive 250V model so now I'm going back round in circles!

Time to park it for a week and let everything soak in. Big thanks to all the comments above it is very helpful.

[mekanik]

Hi Pete
The reason i highlighted the separate feed shaft was the fact that i was in the same situation as yourself when i bought my lathe 40 year ago(strapped for cash) I bought an Elliot Emcomat7L and @ the time it cost GBHP750 which was a fair lump of cash. I have always regretted not getting the next model up that had the power feedshaft and larger capacity. to try and save wear on my leadscrew i rough a job out using the handwheel on the saddle and reserve the leadscrew for the final finishing cut. trust me this can get a bit old very quickly.One major benefit of owning a lathe is you can produce a thread of almost any diameter and pitch, external and internal.
The choice is yours but i would buy the best spec machine as previously advised and wait till you can afford the additional toys. I only got my QCT about a year ago and i am not over impressed as the tool holder overhangs the the end of the topslide adding a levering action. you can manage perfectly well without one, all you do is keep your packing with the tool so you don't have to set the hight until you do a regrind.
Regards
Mike

[magicniner]

Don't buy lathe that isn't capable of screw cutting, you will at some point down the line regret it bitterly or have to swap.
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Don't over-estimate the value of a gearbox, it forces you to choose metric or imperial (unless the lathe is very posh and does both), you then still have to add changewheels to cut threads in the other system and oddball pitches.
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If your leadscrew and half-nuts are kept clean and lightly oiled wear should not be an issue, my 1950s Myford has no perceptible wear in the leadscrew and I know it saw production use before I bought it in the 1990s.
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Power cross-feed is nice, but like any power feed it allows the novice to achieve bigger crashes, faster and doesn't make jobs much easier, neater or faster, don't ask how I learned this! ;-)
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DROs are absolute magic on a lathe, I wouldn't go back to working without them, almost all turning jobs are quicker and easier with a DRO.
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Don't over-value built-in motor/controller combinations fitted by the manufacturer, IMHO a good separate VFD and standard size 3-phase motor is always a better option where the power and torque can meet your needs.
You can always find a good replacement VFD second hand or off the shelf, even if your lathe model is obsolete.
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You don't need a QCTP, but if you do have a DRO and are making a batch of parts you can set Zero 1, 2, 3, 4... for tools 1, 2, 3, 4.... and get stuck in, saves you a bunch of buggering about, but then if money is tight and/or time means nothing to you it's perfectly possible to do without a QCTP.
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Some people will tell you that you need only inserted tooling, some people will tell you that you need only hand ground HSS, ignore them all, your needs will vary from theirs, buy what you need/is appropriate for the job in hand, you'll probably end up with a mixture of inserted, brazed tip and HSS.

Regards,
Nick

[routercnc]

Hi Nick,Mike,

All good advice thank you, really appreciate it. The separate leadscrew m/c starts at £1850 (WM280V) and I think that would be a bit too expensive. I only get an hour or 2 in the workshop at most each week, often less, so wear probably won't be an issue.

I've had an offer from the friend I mentioned above to have a play with his WM250B but it will have to be in a couple of weeks time, so I'll do that to give me a start point.

[njhussey]

Different DRO than mine from Warco so can't help there (not looked into functions much anyway 😳)


My quick change holders have locknuts on top of the knurled discs to stop them moving...


Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

[routercnc]

Cheers Neil

I'll add locknuts to my tool holder then

Your DRO has a large R button maybe that does R/D? Don't have that on mine so hope there is another way.

[cropwell]

Hi,

I have the Sino SDS6-2V DRO so I cannot comment on the one you have, but on my DRO the 'Lathe Mode' is set up by interrupting the switch-on self check and after aload of 'enter' down arrow key presses, you can choose the machine type. Then, I believe the 1/2 button will work. It does for me ! I am only reading through the handbook.

I would go and check it, but I am currently confined to barracks with a shoulder injury.

R

[mekanik]

On my QC Toolpost the knurled hieght adjustment knob is through tapped and has a grub screw in it, you adjust the hieght and turn the grub screw to lock it, it's not very elegant but it works.
Regards
Mijke

[Clive S]

Second question is about the QCTP. I've adjust the tool to the centre height of the work but every time the cam is operated the thumb wheel can easily turn, altering the height. Should it come with a locknut under the thumb wheel or I am using it wrong?

I think you need to put a bolt down the centre of the knurled bit to lock it

edit Mike beat me to it