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  1. #1
    Lathe is bolted to bench, cleaned, ways oiled, QCTP fitted etc. and I've made my first part!
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    Made an adapter to connect DTI to adjustable holder:
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    Question on DROs - my X axis reads in radius which is less convenient as I always think of round parts in diameters.

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    The instructions that come with it suggest it can switch between R and D by pressing X and then 1/2 button. A symbol should appear in the display |`/. However, symbol does not appear and it remains in radius mode and just halves the readout value.

    The instructions also say "When the DRO is set as a lathe meter . . ." - not sure how to do this. Is this the problem? It also says applies to D60-2L and D60-3L models. Pretty sure mine has an M at the end not L (it only briefly appears on the screen on startup, and the rest of the display is branded as Warco, no model number).

    I'm hoping this function is possible - I'd be disappointed if Warco supplied this 2 line read out display (which can only be for lathes can't it?) and it does not have this function.

    Any one help with this? I'll give Warco a call this week.


    Second question is about the QCTP. I've adjust the tool to the centre height of the work but every time the cam is operated the thumb wheel can easily turn, altering the height. Should it come with a locknut under the thumb wheel or I am using it wrong?

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    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  2. Deleted question already answered.
    Last edited by Journeyman; 15-11-2016 at 11:35 AM.
    Real stupidity beats artificial intelligence every time - Terry Pratchett
    Journeyman's Workshop

  3. #3
    Well I've had this lathe for just over a year and couldn't be happier with it. DROs have been faultless and were well worth fitting.

    Only thing bothering me on the lathe is that the carriage has a very slow oil leak. After a year of ownership it stopped dripping about 2 months ago, and the oil sight glass showed it was empty. I bought some more oil at a recent show and have finally got around to trying to fix it.

    First problem was that access to the oil plug was quite tight - not enough space for a hex key. Thought about grinding one down, then decided to make a tool. I had a round aluminium bar with a hex shape on it (from another job) and machined a small hex on the top:

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    Then held the larger end with an adjustable spanner:
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    And into the oil grub screw:
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    Last bit of oil came out . . . .
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    Along with some free grit presumably from the casting . . .
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    Cleaned it up, put around 5 rounds of PTFE tape on and tightened it up.
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    Filled up with fresh oil and . . . . .
    . . . it still drips (slowly)!

    I might not get on this again until next week end but anyone else had this problem? More PTFE or am I missing something?
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  4. #4
    Neale's Avatar
    Lives in Plymouth, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 10 Hours Ago Has a total post count of 1,748. Received thanks 299 times, giving thanks to others 11 times.
    I would normally expect to see a head with a machined seating which bears on a matching machined flat on the bottom of the carriage, plus fibre washer. Clearly here they seem to expect the threads to seal. If PTFE does not do the job, then it might be worth trying Loctite 55. I've had a lot of success with that on household plumbing - typically the screwed fittings that go into the bottom of radiators that also rely on the threads sealing. I've had first-time success with every one of those, where using PTFE has been less reliable. Might be my technique, but I'm sold on the stuff. Can't see that it says anywhere that it's good for oil - just potable water and LPG - but I would probably give it a go.

    Out of curiosity, what oil are you using?
    Last edited by Neale; 16-12-2017 at 11:41 PM.

  5. #5
    The oil is coming out where shafts run from inside to outside, not at the plug ;-)
    You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D

  6. #6
    I was curious about this drain plug, I couldn't find it on the parts diagram, so I went and had a look at my 290 and it has not got one, but the shafts are oily as Nick suggested. I am not concerned, the sight glass is half way, and soon my shot glass will be full again

    Cheers,

    Rob

  7. #7
    Hi Neil

    Some good suggestions there. Machined surface with fibre makes a lot more sense and I could make something if all else fails. I'll try a bit more PTFE then look into the locktight.
    Oil is what Warco recommend for their headstock and cross slide. Have a look in their website as there is only one.

    Nick
    Pretty sure it is dripping out the plug. The front face where the shafts exit is bone dry. Underneath there were lots of drips gathered around the plug. But I'll double check.

    Rob
    Strange how your lathe does not have a drain plug. Mine has a similar plug on the upper left side of the carriage to fill the oil and a sight glass on the lower right side. It has power feed and power cross slide.

    Thanks all
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

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