Putting Bearing on Drill

[Lee Roberts]

Well i was about to say, "have you checked the spindle shaft for strait, using some rollers" but then i read your last post about using it as a Router...

I would defo check the shaft, as I think you know, a drill press isnt designed for the kind of forces (axial loads) exhibited when used like this, let alone the chuck comming lose and dropping off in mid "flight" taking a chunk out of anything or one standing close by. Standard radial bearings dont like this kind of thing either, I believe it's the reason we use angular contact bearings on our machine leadscrews...or should be .

I use a £50 drill press from Lidl, there are a few like it in these types of shop at times, the Lidl one though, is of better quality than the others, dont forget your getting what you pay for at £50. Not sure if they still do this one though as everything they seem to get now is branded "Parkside".

.Me

[komatias]

A design note here on the selection of bearings. For machine tools it is preferable to use shielded bearings to sealed. Rubber seals add friction and heat to the assembly that you could do without. Shields do not contact the inner race so they do not add too much friction and allow oil to seep through to the balls.

What you are experiencing with the assembly being notchy is probably out or roundness in the housing or some misalignment on the shaft itself.
Should not be difficult to figure out and save a few bob repairing it.

[Tenson]

I took it apart again and checked the shaft and found it was good and true. So I re-assembled and it ran smoothly. I must have bodged something first time!

Drill back together and it runs quieter and less wobbly now. Sadly still a little bit of runout which I think is from the chuck arbour. Good enough for now and I'm not sure how to remove the chuck as the morse taper is directly on the end of the spindle, meaning I have no way to press the chuck away from the spindle shaft. I don't think it was meant to be removed. It's only a cheap Axminster WD13S (about £90 I think).

Tempted by a Bosh PBD40. Any reviews on this?

[Tenson]

Does anyone have tips on how to remove the chuck on my WD13S pillar drill from Axminster?

The spindle has a taper directly on the end and pressed into the chuck. There is no 'key way' to release it. Tapping a bearing release fork between the chuck and drill body only acts to pull the spindle out of its bearings.

Perhaps a bit of dis-assembly lubricant and heat on the chuck? Any other tips?

[mekanik]

If you can lever off the bottom bearing you could try something like this.

http://www.tools-4-you.co.uk/Hand%20Tools/ball_tie.htm

If the bearing wasn't on the shaft a sharp strike to the back of the chuck should break it(the taper not the chuck)

Sorry about that missed the bit where you had tried the taper wedge tried to delete the message but couldn't
You could grip the shaft in the vice just behind the bearing (to prevent it moving) and try the wedge again.
Regards
Mike

[Lee Roberts]

Does anyone have tips on how to remove the chuck on my WD13S pillar drill from Axminster?

The spindle has a taper directly on the end and pressed into the chuck. There is no 'key way' to release it. Tapping a bearing release fork between the chuck and drill body only acts to pull the spindle out of its bearings.

Perhaps a bit of dis-assembly lubricant and heat on the chuck? Any other tips?

Well the wedges method is the preferred way, did you use two either side or just one, here is a link to the correct type, not sure whats going on with the price but I'm sure you can find others or make some: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371117648999

Here is a great video by a friend I follow on YouTube, he's doing a service on a chuck, uses the wedges method correctly and takes you through the motions and more:

https://youtu.be/h_jQ7-UiWgI

.Me

[Lee Roberts]

A design note here on the selection of bearings. For machine tools it is preferable to use shielded bearings to sealed. Rubber seals add friction and heat to the assembly that you could do without. Shields do not contact the inner race so they do not add too much friction and allow oil to seep through to the balls.

Are you sure about that? All the RS type I've played with don't appear to have had an interference fit? Surely if they did the rubber would just brake down and contaminate the balls?

.Me