Electronics for New Machine + Chinese Spindle + VFD

[mturneruk]

Thanks Clive.

14pin 10A 24v relay sockets seem to be rarer than hens teeth.
I am thinking I am going to 3d print a bracket to firmly hold it upside down and solder / heat shrink my connections, purely because I can do it now without buying anything or waiting.
There are no LED's on it, so that's not a problem.



This is a picture of the relay I've got.

I realise that I need to use 9,10,11,12 pins for one side of my switch connections.
Do I use 1,2,3,4 or 5,6,7,8 for the other side? Anyway to tell ?

EDIT : Just noticed that you can look at the side of the relay and see which pins are doing what.

Thinking out loud - When the coil is not powered I want the switches to open and break the circuits.
Suppose I could test when i've got my 24v psu up and running.

Cheers
Martin

[cropwell]

14pin 10A 24v relay sockets seem to be rarer than hens teeth.

Look at AC3592 on page 138

http://asp-gb.secure-zone.net/v2/index.jsp?id=1816/2360/9875&lng=en&startPage=138

[mturneruk]

Thanks Cropwell - That base only has a contact rating of 6A. This is a 10A relay.
They do exist, but i can't really be bothered to buy / wait. Is there any reason why I can't solder the connections and heatshrink?
I trust solder over screw terminals.

[komatias]

Just a small comment on the solder vs crimping or screwing.

In high vibration environments such as in aircraft, drilling tools and military vehicles, it has been found that solder joints are more likely to fail. The solder wicks up into the cable and causes a hidden stress concentration and a slight heat affected zone in the copper. Also tin whiskers as discussed here: http://www.aviationtoday.com/av/comm...ers_76599.html

Depending on your application, my recommendation would be to see if you can crimp a ferrule boot on to the cables and use screw terminals. Also to note, some screw terminals are not meant to take a soldered cable in them.

[mekanik]

http://www.aviationtoday.com/av/comm...ers_76599.html
A very interesting yet disturbing read, thanks for that
Regards
Mike

[cropwell]

If you buy solder from China, it is generally 63/37 Sn/Pb, which avoids the whiskering problem. Commercially you can't use it, but as an amateur you are not bound by recent regulations to industry. If you are not soldering all day and everyday the risk is low.

Most spindle connector plugs have to have soldered joints and I would recommend that you use at leat a 50W iron with a large bit. Low wattage irons and small bits don't transfer heat quickly enough to stop the heat soak up the wire. The faster you can solder a joint (at the correct temperature) the better.

To echo and amplify the remarks of Komatias, you will need to cut down the joint flexing as it is more likely to fail at the solder due to embrittlement of the wire. If you can fit a flex limiting sheath (several layers of heat shrink will help) then you increase the radius of curvature at the flexing point.

Cheers,

Rob


https://www.gore.com/en_xx/products/cables/flat/highflex/flat_cable_hi_flex_apps_tech_background_document.h tml

[JAZZCNC]

I realise that I need to use 9,10,11,12 pins for one side of my switch connections.
Do I use 1,2,3,4 or 5,6,7,8 for the other side? Anyway to tell ?

Very easy to tell the picture shows you all you need to know. Just realise the picture is showing you contacts without the Coil energised. They just Flip when powered up.

Take the First Contact 9 = Common 1 = NC 5 = NO

[njhussey]

How's it coming on Martin? Any updates?

[kingcreaky]

some real good information in this thread, one for the bookmarks I think.

As Im sure many others have, Ive often thought about messaging Lee to get him to set up one page. Off this page, have diffinitive links to all the threads for each subject. For example this would be a great candidate for control box wiring. I can think of other threads where people have eloquently explained other subjects.

I too will be adopting the circuit design Dean has so well explained on my mill. Thanks for all your patience on this one Dean. Keep up the good work and updates mrturneruk.... more pictures required!!

[mturneruk]

Hey guys....

Ended up redesigning my room to fit in my new machine.
Then I decided that I needed a new floor and that the walls needed painting, so I've been doing that. Workshop is looking great now!

All the electronics parts are now in and the decoration is nearly complete.
So hopefully get back on it in the next week or so.

Here is a picture of the stand I am going to build, for my machine to sit on showing control box and dust extractor under the table.
The machine has to be on wheels as it blocks a hatch door into my loft. I will need to be able to move the machine out the way for access.
I have got a sloping ceiling, so I had to work out how high i could make the stand.
Would like it a bit higher really, but this should be just about ok.

Will post lots of pics of my build as I get into it.



Cheers
Martin