Electronics for New Machine + Chinese Spindle + VFD

[JAZZCNC]

lol. Cheers Chaps. I assume you have never done it then...

Many many times. My old machine used long timing belt which were uncovered this grabbed my shirt and half ripped it from my back before de-railing it's self. Even the Oh Shite button wasn't saving me that day because I couldn't reach it.!! . . . Now all my machines have several Oh shite buttons dotted around.!!

DONT Under estimate the power of steppers when connected to ballscrews. They will happily crush or rip your hand off just has easy they cut thru metal.!!

[cropwell]

Fingers.!!!. . .Then under wear.. .

Two fingers and knickers to you !

[mturneruk]

Yeah been thinking about that would love to have my moving parts and ball screws covered really, but my design does not lend itself to that easily.
Been looking at brush bars to see if that would help. Still working on it.

[uli12us]

That have not much to do with Ballscrews, the same can happen with acme screws.

The Spindle have a diametre of 12mm and your motor a torque of 2,5Nm. If something was wrapped around the spindle, so it pulls with 2500Nmm/6mm~400N or 40Kg. Thats impossible to hold, especially if it happened surprisingly.

[mturneruk]

Duplicate. Please remove.

[mturneruk]

It only bloody works. Managed to get the 24v psu powered up today along with the relay to prove your latching circuit Jazz. It worked and nothing blew up!
Top shout thank you!

I was able to power up the 48v PSU via the relay and then when pressing the Estop the relay would switch and the 48v PSU would power down. After releasing the Estop, pressing the momentary would then fire the 48V PSU back up again.

Great idea!

Here are some pics of my wiring. I used a 2 Amp fuse for the 24v / 5v PSU's and a 10Amp fuse for the 48V PSU. Hope that's right. Does everything look ok to you ?




Here is the shelf that will carry the UC300 / KK01.



Right onto the 48v Stuff now. Leaving the VFD out of the equation for now.

Thanks again.
Martin

[Clive S]

Martin A mute point but I might have used Brown and Blue for the 230V cables and red and black for the DC stuff. Its very easy to get mixed up later. Or now it has been done use a different colour for the DC stuff

[cropwell]

Attachment 16643

I was just looking at this diagram in post #52. I have always done latching circuits using the +ve as the latch loop and it took me a second to realise why Jazz does it this way, as between the Estop switch and the relay you have a point to signal Estop back to the motion controller. Thanks Jazz for this fresh insight. I suppose that this is more towards the way a PNOZ safety relay works.

I have a latching circuit that pulls in a 100A contactor to switch workshop power. It means I can have Stop buttons where I want them and a Go/Stop box at the workshop door. When I leave at night I can shut off everything in one go.

Rob

[mturneruk]

Clive. Agreed that would of been better. Next time.

Decided that shelf was no good. Didn't like having the 5v stuff so near the mains stuff.
3d printing a better solution right now for the control boards.

Can I just say again how grateful I am for all the time you guys have afforded me.
Want to buy you a pint or six, but hard to over the tinternet.

[mturneruk]

Couple of final questions if you would be so kind.

1. Just setting the dip switches on my drivers.
I was told that 3.8Amps / 10 Microsteps would be a good place to start. With SW4 (half current mode) set to to off.
Does that make sense?

2. Also are these two wiring diagrams effectively the same thing ?
I am having a mental block. My wiring diagram shows A below, but I want to do B. Only worried about blue line e.g. ground / 0V.




3. Any problem with using the outside metal part of these as a way of passing the shield ground from stepper wiring into the box and on to the star ground?
My plugs only have 4 pins.

4. Jazz would those 5A time delay stepper fuses in your diagram in theory protect the machine / me at all if it should stall or crash ?

Cheers Chaps.
Martin