Electronics for New Machine + Chinese Spindle + VFD

[mturneruk]

OK Great. Thanks Jazz.

So hopefully that's the plan sorted now. Reckon I might get stuck along the way, but i will give it a go.

So am i right in saying I need NC ones. So that when it detects something it opens and breaks the circuit ?
I will have to ensure that the aluminium frame of the router won't cause false triggers then on the prox switches.

Does NPN or PNP matter for my purposes ?

Do these look like they will do the job?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-5Pcs-Ind...U0u32s_xiK0nkw

Thanks again for all your help. Couldn't of done without it.

Cheers
Martin

[Clive S]

OK Great. Thanks Jazz.


So am i right in saying I need NC ones. So that when it detects something it opens and breaks the circuit ?

Does NPN or PNP matter for my purposes ?

Do these look like they will do the job?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-5Pcs-Ind...U0u32s_xiK0nkw

Thanks again for all your help. Couldn't of done without it.

Cheers
Martin

It depends on the BOB you are using. the one's you have linked to are about £4 each I have linked to some for £1.41 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1417817891...c=1&rmvSB=true
these are NO so would need to be wired in parallel if you only want to use one input on the BOB for the three switches.
.
If your BOB has hardwired pullups to 5 V you would need NPN type. otherwise either will do.

[uli12us]

NPN or PNP depends on your control. Nearly all have either +5 or +24V inputs,
for those you need NPN. I have never seen any control unit who works with ground signals. But it must exist, because so many PNP switches are offered.

[mturneruk]

Sorry to be dumb guys but im getting lost within the techno on your answers to my question, I am no electronics engineer!

I found this wiring diagram for my KK01 specifically for prox sensors..




There are also some words underneath which say..

"We would normally recommend using one input for all limit switches and wirethem through normally closed contacts in series when using mechanical limitswitches and parallel for normally open or open collector proximity switches etc. "

Can I just copy this wiring diagram for the sensors and put my 24v in where it says 6-36v?
Any problems with this ? They suggest these prox switches : LJ12A3-4

Cheers
Martin

[Clive S]

Martin The ones I linked to will be fine and yes the drawing is OK If you are going to just use one input.

But do the Estop circuit as you have been advised by Jazz earlier

[mturneruk]

Thanks. Absolutely!

[JAZZCNC]

I found this wiring diagram for my KK01 specifically for prox sensors..




Can I just copy this wiring diagram for the sensors and put my 24v in where it says 6-36v?
Any problems with this ?

Like Clive says yes you can wire just like that.
Also you use the E-stop portion the same but instead of running thru the E-stop button like they show run it thru the Relay Contacts of the E-stop system I did for you. Then power the Relay coils like I show using the E-stop button.

They suggest these prox switches : LJ12A3-4

That's because they want you to buy there switches. Prox switch is a prox switch doesn't matter who you buy it from or what make provided you use the right type to suit your needs.


Cheers
Martin

[mturneruk]

Hey guys...

Lots of progress here. Really pleased with how the machine has turned out so far.
Super strong and bloody heavy. Not a bit of wobble in the Z. It only took 2 days to assemble all the parts in the end.



Lots still to do.

Jazz - Got a couple more electronic questions if you would be so kind.

1. Can you confirm that a 1n4007 1000V diode is ok for the fly back diode on my 24v relay and that the line on the end of diode goes towards the PSU and not the other way around ?

2. I've got my transformers. The 24V one I've received is only 1A. I thought it was more than that, but no.

Basically it's driving the relay (which has a coil current of 69mA) and 3 prox switches. The only data I can find on these switches is that they have an "output current" of 300ma.
So does that mean 300 x 3 + 69 = 969ma, e.g. Just less than 1A so ok ?

3. The relay I've got did not have a base. Would it be ok to mount the relay upside down and use spade connector crimps ?

4. Is it worth it to run earth fly leads from panel to panel in my multi-panel case. It is painted so there is no conductivity between some of the panels.

Thanks Guys.
Martin

[uli12us]

2. No, that only mean, you can switch a maximum of 300ma with the switch, but if you will drive the relay then the switch needs a little bit maybe 2mA, more then the 69mA. If you go to the bob, then it will need 10mA or less.

3. Not good, a relay socket don't cost a fortune. You can make it upside down, but, if the relay have an indicator, you can't see him. And if you glue it to your assembly plate, it can fall down if the glue isn't correct for the material. then you can get a shortcircuit.

[Clive S]

- Got a couple more electronic questions if you would be so kind.

1. Can you confirm that a 1n4007 1000V diode is ok for the fly back diode on my 24v relay and that the line on the end of diode goes towards the PSU and not the other way around ?

2. I've got my transformers. The 24V one I've received is only 1A. I thought it was more than that, but no.

Basically it's driving the relay (which has a coil current of 69mA) and 3 prox switches. The only data I can find on these switches is that they have an "output current" of 300ma.
So does that mean 300 x 3 + 69 = 969ma, e.g. Just less than 1A so ok ?

3. The relay I've got did not have a base. Would it be ok to mount the relay upside down and use spade connector crimps ?

4. Is it worth it to run earth fly leads from panel to panel in my multi-panel case. It is painted so there is no conductivity between some of the panels.

1. The diode is ok and the line goes to the +ve side.
2. The transformer is ok for what you are using it for. the switches will only pull a few mA each
3. I would buy a base from Ebay it will be easer to change if it goes faulty and it will also support the relay.
4. You need to make sure that they are earthed to each other you could scratch the paint off between the bolt and nut heads and use star washers.