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  1. #1
    Yeah been thinking about that would love to have my moving parts and ball screws covered really, but my design does not lend itself to that easily.
    Been looking at brush bars to see if that would help. Still working on it.

  2. #2
    That have not much to do with Ballscrews, the same can happen with acme screws.

    The Spindle have a diametre of 12mm and your motor a torque of 2,5Nm. If something was wrapped around the spindle, so it pulls with 2500Nmm/6mm~400N or 40Kg. Thats impossible to hold, especially if it happened surprisingly.

  3. #3
    Duplicate. Please remove.
    Last edited by mturneruk; 12-12-2015 at 08:45 AM.

  4. #4
    It only bloody works. Managed to get the 24v psu powered up today along with the relay to prove your latching circuit Jazz. It worked and nothing blew up!
    Top shout thank you!

    I was able to power up the 48v PSU via the relay and then when pressing the Estop the relay would switch and the 48v PSU would power down. After releasing the Estop, pressing the momentary would then fire the 48V PSU back up again.

    Great idea!

    Here are some pics of my wiring. I used a 2 Amp fuse for the 24v / 5v PSU's and a 10Amp fuse for the 48V PSU. Hope that's right. Does everything look ok to you ?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here is the shelf that will carry the UC300 / KK01.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Right onto the 48v Stuff now. Leaving the VFD out of the equation for now.

    Thanks again.
    Martin
    Last edited by mturneruk; 12-12-2015 at 08:54 AM.

  5. #5
    Martin A mute point but I might have used Brown and Blue for the 230V cables and red and black for the DC stuff. Its very easy to get mixed up later. Or now it has been done use a different colour for the DC stuff
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

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  7. #6
    Clive. Agreed that would of been better. Next time.

    Decided that shelf was no good. Didn't like having the 5v stuff so near the mains stuff.
    3d printing a better solution right now for the control boards.

    Can I just say again how grateful I am for all the time you guys have afforded me.
    Want to buy you a pint or six, but hard to over the tinternet.
    Last edited by mturneruk; 12-12-2015 at 07:57 PM.

  8. #7
    Couple of final questions if you would be so kind.

    1. Just setting the dip switches on my drivers.
    I was told that 3.8Amps / 10 Microsteps would be a good place to start. With SW4 (half current mode) set to to off.
    Does that make sense?

    2. Also are these two wiring diagrams effectively the same thing ?
    I am having a mental block. My wiring diagram shows A below, but I want to do B. Only worried about blue line e.g. ground / 0V.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    3. Any problem with using the outside metal part of these as a way of passing the shield ground from stepper wiring into the box and on to the star ground?
    My plugs only have 4 pins.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    4. Jazz would those 5A time delay stepper fuses in your diagram in theory protect the machine / me at all if it should stall or crash ?

    Cheers Chaps.
    Martin
    Last edited by mturneruk; 14-12-2015 at 10:15 PM.

  9. #8
    Q2 - wiring. Those two circuit diagrams are effectively the same. Not sure why you would want to do B. Diagram A shows a short wire connecting two terminals on the BOB; in B you need two longer wires running to the switches. However, as I say, electrically they are equivalent.

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  11. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by mturneruk View Post
    I was told that 3.8Amps / 10 Microsteps would be a good place to start. With SW4 (half current mode) set to to off.
    Does that make sense?
    The Amps should match or be close to the Motors rating as possible. Good drives will let you set exactly to match motors but If no exact match then set to next lowest. You'll just have lower than rated Torque but better than going higher and having more motor heating.

    Wouldn't go above 10x Ms because you'll gain very little just stress the system more. Often the machine will dictate to some degree the best MS setting based on the resonance and how it affects the motors at different speeds. Again better drives will handle this better allowing optimum Ms without sacrificing anything in terms of motor smoothness/speed.

    You want half current Mode On because it lowers motor heating when stood still.


    Quote Originally Posted by mturneruk View Post
    4. Jazz would those 5A time delay stepper fuses in your diagram in theory protect the machine / me at all if it should stall or crash ?
    No won't protect you or the drives from stalling or crashing or will it need to because the drives should be able to handle that them selfs and you should have E-stop fitted to protect YOU.!!. . . But will in the event of short circuit in say motor etc.

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