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  1. #1
    Depends on ballscrew pitch and Volts your running steppers at. But given it's relatively light weight construction ie not heavy gantry and using External motion controller then some thing like below.

    If 10mm pitch and say 60-70V then you should easily velocity at 10mtr/min and would proababy max out around 14-15mtr/min. Maybe slightly less on the Y axis. With Accel of roughly 800-1000. Just remember can't have both high Vel and high Accel.

    If 5mm pitch and 60-70v then roughly half the above velocity figures. With slightly less Accel.

    If less volts then slightly less speed but with around 40-50V I'd only expect about 15-20% less.

    How you tune the motors will depend on several factors like type of work you'll be doing etc. Good all round setup for such a small machine would be Max velocity of 8000mm/min with Accel around 1200-1500.
    This is based on 10mm pitch/60-70v. It will give you good balance of speed and accel along with reliabilty.

    Nice job by the way and you'll make some nice stuff with that. Well done. .
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 21-12-2015 at 07:54 PM.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to JAZZCNC For This Useful Post:


  3. #2
    Jazz
    Thanks...

    I am running 1605 ball screws at 48v.

    I tried last night on 4000mm per minute, and that seems just about ok actually. I tried higher, but it was screaming at me, so I tuned it down.
    As far as the acceleration goes, i have increased it to 600 and that seems ok with hardly a noticeable ramp up in acceleration.

    At the end of the day, i guess i will just have to play with it to find the best settings for my machine.
    I don't really need it to be able to run stupid fast, but I am hoping to be able to make much deeper cuts which will be the main time saving.

    I think I am going to need a way to lift my machine up off it's castors when it's in use.
    I seem to be getting an amount of table movement when the machine is moving around.

    Cheers
    Martin

  4. #3
    I think I am going to need a way to lift my machine up off it's castors when it's in use.
    I seem to be getting an amount of table movement when the machine is moving around
    Martin My machine is on castors two fixed straight one's at the back and two swivel one's at the front.
    What I do is lift the front end with a lever (bit of 3x2) and then put two blocks under the frame and I find that is OK for me.
    .
    I think your machine is much too clean and needs to be making a mess now
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  5. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by mturneruk View Post
    I am running 1605 ball screws at 48v.

    I tried last night on 4000mm per minute, and that seems just about ok actually. I tried higher, but it was screaming at me, so I tuned it down.
    As far as the acceleration goes, i have increased it to 600 and that seems ok with hardly a noticeable ramp up in acceleration.
    Ok well that's a nice safe setup thou I'd be inclined to up the Accel a little. Having higher accleration can actually reduce cycle times more than velocity on some jobs, mostly those with short moves and direction changes like engraving etc.

    If I was running that setup I'd be tuning it at 4500-5000mtr/min with 800-1000s/s.

    Speed you cut at is mostly determined by the material, cutter and machine ridgidty etc. It shouldn't really be based on what you feel comfortable with in terms of being afraid or scared to push machine. Your far more likely to break cutters and ruin work by under cutting than you are ever likely to break the machine.! . . . . The machine it's self will soon let you know when it's not happy.!

    NOW get them switches on and make some Bloody chips. . .

  6. #5
    Chaps...
    Having problems wiring my 3 wire (blue) prox sensors as per this diagram.
    Problem is it dosen't work. There seems to be a light on the Prox sensor, but this does not come on and Mach3 stop is not triggered.
    Everything is setup correctly in Mach3...

    I am feeding +24 into the brown wire from my 24v PSU.
    The blue wire goes to GND on my KK01 BOB.
    The black wire goes to pin13 on my KK01 BOB (signal).

    I'm guessing that either the blue GND wire need to go to the negative side of the 24 PSU instead of the GND on the BOB ?
    Or...
    I need to connect the GND on bob to the negative side of the 24v PSU ?

    Any help much appreciated.

    Cheers Chaps.



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  7. #6
    I guessed and won.
    The ground on the BOB needed to be wired to the 24v negative side. I might actually be learning something here.
    Last edited by mturneruk; 22-12-2015 at 05:19 PM.

  8. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by mturneruk View Post
    I guessed and won.
    The ground on the BOB needed to be wired to the 24v negative side. I might actually be learning something here.
    Classic mistake a lot make. So you are defiantly learning.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  9. #8
    Hey guys....

    Somehow mach3 managed to stop driving my A axis in sync with my Y axis.
    Luckily i realised before any damage was done I think. i maybe moved the y axis 15mm while the A was stationary.

    Here is the sequence of events that led to this.

    1. Pressed Home to home the machine.
    2. Pressed stop after the Z had homed, during the Y axis homing.
    3. Manually Jogged the Y Axis. (A did not move).

    Anyone else ever experienced anything like this ?

    Seems like a fairly dangerous bug to me...

    Cheers
    Martin

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