Wiring Diagram check

[JAZZCNC]

Hmm with all that built. In safety im surprised your using a single pole main switch on the ac input

Emm I don't see why people think this is high level of safety.? It's basic IMO and minimum a good machine should have.
Just because these machine are DIY built doesn't make them any less dangerous, they'll happily snap your arm or Rip a finger off just Like £150,000 Hass VMC will.
Like wise They'll Also quite happily turn your Hair into Afro or Burn your house down if you Mess with electrickery without knowing what your doing.!!

But I Don't think the schematic is going down to that level of detail and it's more to show a Switch and not the type. Rotary Door panel isolater switches break all lines so he'll probably use one of those.?

If not then at least it's got some switch and it won't be a problem.

[eurikain]

Well, a switch is a switch :) Yes in the end it will be plugged in a wall socket, but I'll have a main switch for the control cabinet.

[routercnc]

In your latest drawing I would not connect the mains supply of the VFD to the estop relay. It is better to have the estop connect to the run/stop lines of one of the VFD logic inputs so it is still powered when the spindle spools down. If you want you can add a delay timer which switches the mains supply to the VFD off after a few seconds (Jazz does this) but most people don't and it works fine.

[eurikain]

Hello routercnc, thank you for the advice :)

To be honest, I received my spindle kit more than two months ago and have not yet powered the VFD and haven't looked at the manual much yet (I know there is a good stick thread on here that will help).

Though I know it's possible to control the VFD (run/stop, and speed) with the BOB, I am not sure how the controls actually work. Is the run/stop line of the VFD the equivalent of the ENABLE for the motors ?

[cropwell]

For a Normally Closed limits circuit, you have to use a SPDT switch like this. In your diagram there is no power to the buzzer. You can use 12v or 5v buzzer, just connect the appropriate +ve voltage to the +ve of the buzzer.

[eurikain]

I thought I understood your diagram but apparently not :/ So let's break it apart step by step:

The CN1 is the BOB's (CN == "Common 1" or "Input 1" ? + ground). You've also got a ground from each switch to the star point.

Now, how I understand its functioning:

1. In the initial state, current flows through SW1 to SW4 and then goes back to the BOB. The circuit is NC and Mach3 knows that limit switches are set to NC. Mach3 also is told that there is an override switch in Normally Open circuit.
2. Imagine SW1 triggers. The circuit opens, Mach3 notices and stops the machine.
3. Mach3 won't let you move the machine until you use the limits override. So, you press on SW4, which opens the switches circuit and closes the buzzer circuit. The buzzer starts beeeeeeeeeeeeeeping.
4. You move your gantry or whatever triggered, or home your machine to be safe and reset Mach3. This releases the triggered switch.
5. You move SW4 to its original position and the limits are now back into their original state. Mach3 notices and is now happy :)

I might be wrong on #4 and #5. I don't understand why you have a 12V buzzer. Doesn't the BOB send 5V through the limits circuit ? Therefore, having a 5V buzzer would be enough ? It seems to me like your diagram causes the BOB to take 12V in when you press the override switch. I'm not sure the BOB can take that much on the input pins (thought I know it can on the spindle control interface).

Now if you look at my diagram, it acts similarly to yours, I think :/ ? When a limit is triggers, it opens the circuit and you have to put the override switch in position 2, which closes the buzzer circuit. The buzzer is now powered with the BOB 5V (unless I'm wrong about the BOB sending 5V through those pins).

Pleas forgive my lack of understanding :)

[Clive S]

It seems to me like your diagram causes the BOB to take 12V in when you press the override switch. I'm not sure the BOB can take that much on the input pins

I don't think you are understanding the relay contacts the 12 Volts -ve is connected to ground and the +ve is to the buzzer then though to the relay contact. Now when the override button is pressed the relay changes state and then grounds the buzzer to make it buz. In no way is it connected to the input pin on the bob

[cropwell]

The CN1 is the BOB's (CN == "Common 1" or "Input 1" ? + ground).

1. You move your gantry or whatever triggered, or home your machine to be safe and reset Mach3. This releases the triggered switch.

I might be wrong on #4 and #5. I don't understand why you have a 12V buzzer. Doesn't the BOB send 5V through the limits circuit ? Therefore, having a 5V buzzer would be enough ? It seems to me like your diagram causes the BOB to take 12V in when you press the override switch. I'm not sure the BOB can take that much on the input pins (thought I know it can on the spindle control interface).

Now if you look at my diagram, it acts similarly to yours, I think :/ ? When a limit is triggers, it opens the circuit and you have to put the override switch in position 2, which closes the buzzer circuit. The buzzer is now powered with the BOB 5V (unless I'm wrong about the BOB sending 5V through those pins).

Hi,

My connector CN1 is just there to show the connection point to the BoB.

Do not try and power anything from the BoB input terminals. They may be at 5v due to internal pull-up resistors, but they will not supply enough current and you may damage the BoB. Likewise the output terminal should not feed any circuit with any power demand greater than a relay.

The buzzer can be any small DC buzzer, just feed the +ve side from an appropriate power supply, 5 or 12v depending on your buzzer. I just happened to have a couple in a drawer.

As Clive said my warning buzzer is a separate side of the switch. On my machine I separate ++ limits from -- limits so I use a 3pole double throw switch to override both inputs and also earth the buzzer.

Don't try and Home the machine when a limit is being overridden. You may be the wrong side of the Home switch and your machine will try to keep going in the wrong direction.

Before you connect Home and Limits to the BoB, verify they are correctly wired using a test meter. BoBs are fragile little buggers, so treat them well.

Why are you using a relay for Limits switching ? It only adds more to go wrong ! What would happen if your 24v power failed and you didn't notice.

Cheers,

Rob

[A_Camera]

Why having a buzzer at all? When the limit switch is hit the motors will stop, so you'll notice the silence. When you push the Limit override you know you are pushing it...

Just curious about what is the point with the buzzer.

[eurikain]

Because you don't "push" the limits override, you "switch" it. If it was a push button, you'd have to reach your keyboard or something that allows you to move the gantry off the triggered limit switch while you're pushing the override. However, a switch will stay in the same position, so you won't have the problem of reaching your keyboard, but instead you might have the problem of forgetting to switch it back to the "off" position, hence why a buzzer. It's not mandatory if you are very careful, but it's a plus for safety.