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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by routercnc View Post
    Episode 22 is now ready . . .

    Episode 22 is now ready ok hmmm when you planing episode 23 with some mesurment\s ??

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Vulcano View Post
    Episode 22 is now ready ok hmmm when you planing episode 23 with some mesurment\s ??
    It could be a couple of weeks away based on the little free time I have at the weekends and the long list of things to finish off.
    I have been doing a bit here and there and filming short sections. See if you can spot the joins !
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by routercnc View Post
    It could be a couple of weeks away based on the little free time I have at the weekends and the long list of things to finish off.
    I have been doing a bit here and there and filming short sections. See if you can spot the joins !
    I'm eagerly waiting for your actual ali cutting video and hopefully some stiffness measurements.

    I have a questions as I'm starting a new build trying to use some of your design solutions.

    Have you researched or tested how the double beam gantry with the rails on top (80-100 mm more leverage) performs in the Y direction compared with the twisting of the popular single beam gantry?
    You have mentioned at some point that mori seiki used this gantry design but I couldn't find any information. Could you point me where to find anything about it?

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by paulus.v View Post
    I'm eagerly waiting for your actual ali cutting video and hopefully some stiffness measurements.

    I have a questions as I'm starting a new build trying to use some of your design solutions.

    Have you researched or tested how the double beam gantry with the rails on top (80-100 mm more leverage) performs in the Y direction compared with the twisting of the popular single beam gantry?
    You have mentioned at some point that mori seiki used this gantry design but I couldn't find any information. Could you point me where to find anything about it?
    Here is the pdf link for the Moro Seki 5000
    https://uk.dmgmori.com/resource/blob...0-pdf-data.pdf

    This shows the box in box idea which was part of my inspiration.

    I was worried about rails on top as they are further away but when they were underneath they were difficult to level plus would get chips and coolant on them or risk being hit.
    On the sides made the gantry even wider which I didn’t like. When I saw the Mori rails on top and the beefy construction I went with that.

    I have not measured the stiffness yet still other jobs to finish (build coolant system, skim bed, tram head, belt guards. . .) and other commitments are limiting workshop time but we will get there and get a video out when it’s done 😀
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

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  6. #5
    Thank you!

    That dmg mori machine is a real beast. The blocks spacing on the Y rails is greater than the travel distance... And everything looks like cast iron. It is great that they put a lot of technical details and images in that presentation.

    I never thought to put the rails hanging under the gantry with all that ram weight trying to snatch off the rails...

    One more question, what is your gantry (rails) total length and travel distance?

  7. #6
    re tightening the retaining nuts, you can also dremel a little flat head screwdriver slot into the end of the ballscrew shaft and use that to hold the shaft still while tightening the nut.

    Well I say "you can", I've never seen anyone else do it but it soother's probably a really great reason why not to, but it works for me! No more worries about damaging the important part of the screw vs not tightening it well enough.


    Last edited by Zeeflyboy; 02-12-2018 at 01:57 AM.

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  9. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Zeeflyboy View Post
    re tightening the retaining nuts, you can also dremel a little flat head screwdriver slot into the end of the ballscrew shaft and use that to hold the shaft still while tightening the nut.

    Well I say "you can", I've never seen anyone else do it but it soother's probably a really great reason why not to, but it works for me! No more worries about damaging the important part of the screw vs not tightening it well enough.


    Nice idea. I was thinking of flats machined on the end or on the last part of the ballscrew behind the housing but a slot looks good as it still supports all of the pulley. My other thought was that with the right equipment you can wobble broach a hex pocket into the end.

    Paulus, rail is about 700 long and travel is currently 360. I could go a bit more but when the spindle is quite low nearer the bed it would hit the sides so have limited it to that.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

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