Thread: Here we go again . . . MK4
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01-12-2018 #1
I'm eagerly waiting for your actual ali cutting video and hopefully some stiffness measurements.
I have a questions as I'm starting a new build trying to use some of your design solutions.
Have you researched or tested how the double beam gantry with the rails on top (80-100 mm more leverage) performs in the Y direction compared with the twisting of the popular single beam gantry?
You have mentioned at some point that mori seiki used this gantry design but I couldn't find any information. Could you point me where to find anything about it?
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01-12-2018 #2
Here is the pdf link for the Moro Seki 5000
https://uk.dmgmori.com/resource/blob...0-pdf-data.pdf
This shows the box in box idea which was part of my inspiration.
I was worried about rails on top as they are further away but when they were underneath they were difficult to level plus would get chips and coolant on them or risk being hit.
On the sides made the gantry even wider which I didn’t like. When I saw the Mori rails on top and the beefy construction I went with that.
I have not measured the stiffness yet still other jobs to finish (build coolant system, skim bed, tram head, belt guards. . .) and other commitments are limiting workshop time but we will get there and get a video out when it’s done 😀
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01-12-2018 #3
Thank you!
That dmg mori machine is a real beast. The blocks spacing on the Y rails is greater than the travel distance... And everything looks like cast iron. It is great that they put a lot of technical details and images in that presentation.
I never thought to put the rails hanging under the gantry with all that ram weight trying to snatch off the rails...
One more question, what is your gantry (rails) total length and travel distance?
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02-12-2018 #4
re tightening the retaining nuts, you can also dremel a little flat head screwdriver slot into the end of the ballscrew shaft and use that to hold the shaft still while tightening the nut.
Well I say "you can", I've never seen anyone else do it but it soother's probably a really great reason why not to, but it works for me! No more worries about damaging the important part of the screw vs not tightening it well enough.
Last edited by Zeeflyboy; 02-12-2018 at 01:57 AM.
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02-12-2018 #5
Nice idea. I was thinking of flats machined on the end or on the last part of the ballscrew behind the housing but a slot looks good as it still supports all of the pulley. My other thought was that with the right equipment you can wobble broach a hex pocket into the end.
Paulus, rail is about 700 long and travel is currently 360. I could go a bit more but when the spindle is quite low nearer the bed it would hit the sides so have limited it to that.
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22-12-2018 #6
Episode 23 is now ready . . . . . finishing off ready for first real chips !
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22-12-2018 #7
Well done mate, certainly one of the best DIY builds I have ever seen. The attention to detail is immense.
In the cutting videos, the spindle bogs down. What power is it? Are you running full speed?
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22-12-2018 #8
Nice to see it finally finished and making chips. It certainly is a big credit to you and I have enjoyed all the vids in the making.
..Clive
The more you know, The better you know, How little you know
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