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  1. #1
    Hi Trevor
    Yes you can only use this to square up a mm or so otherwise there is too much tension. You need to make and assemble it as square as possible first. Depending on the design you might be able to slacken the gantry bolts and square it up using separate home switches then retighten as you suggest.

    I had to be careful with mine as to do independent homing I needed to switch off slaved axes temporarily. This meant my Z motors were also no longer slaved (I have 2 on Z) so after homing X I switched slave back on and now usually just home off the left sensor with the motors slaved. I check each side with callipers to ensure they are still the same distance from the end plates.

    Yes separate drives are required plus a spare axis on your break out board (usually A). You can’t do this trick from a single motor with belt coupling to the other ballscrew and would need a way of making tiny adjustments on one ballscrew relative to the other mechanically. Probably the grub screws holding the pulley onto one of the shafts
    Last edited by routercnc; 19-03-2019 at 11:19 PM.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  2. #2
    Thanks very much for the clarification. I'm not so worried about squaring the gantry on the horizontal sense (having it parallel to the bed) - I have a big digital height gauge so can get that initially set pretty good, besides mine's single motor on the Z.- It was more the X,Y squareness for which the only "old fashioned" tool would seem to be a fairly huge and vastly heavy 3 way angle plate. I'm running twin motors/screws on the long axis (which I call Y since I look at it from the front), but was going to simply parallel up the inputs to the drivers, in the light of this maybe I need to have a bigger BOB or a bit of switching.
    Last edited by Voicecoil; 20-03-2019 at 05:50 PM.

  3. #3
    Would a 3.1Nm motor really find it that much of a challenge to drive 4 ball nuts all engaged at the same time on your Y ?

    Super cool of you to do what your about to do btw

    P.S Don't forget we have an open source section/forum.
    Last edited by Lee Roberts; 20-06-2019 at 08:20 PM.
    Lee

  4. #4
    I'm not sure if I'm honest. To drive 4 ballnuts without pre-load would be fine I think, but when the ballnuts are clamped together there is an extra load to overcome, and the Y/Z is pretty heavy. Is it worth the risk to have missed steps on a critical job? Not sure.
    Decided to leave it like that and put some pre-load between the front and back ballscrews instead.

    Sending pm shortly . . .
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  5. #5
    Hi Lee, pm sent . . .
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  6. #6
    For anyone interested here is episode 26 of the CNC series giving an overview of my humble but functional CNC controller.

    Also, for anyone who likes oscilloscopes there is a review of the Hantek DSO5102P oscilloscope supplied by Banggood.

    Then right at the end of the video is a short montage of the controller build.

    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

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  8. #7
    If you see this Lee PM sent . . .
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

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