Here we go again . . . MK4

[routercnc]

Next part is the Z ballnut bracket. All started well . . .

Laying it out


Pilot holes for the threaded holes:


Skim the surface to level it:


Machine pocket to house ballnut:
(Toolpaths are fairly basic from Cut2D - gentle ramp into material, then a series of simple circles. No spiral option. But it gets the job done.)



Profile machined most of the way through leaving a bit holding it in place:




All holes drilled to size, tapped, then on the very last hole backing the tap out - it snapped ! Aargh!

Tap was 12mm into the part and bashing and picking was not working. Flatten the end off the centre punch so that was no good.

Got some Alum powder (about £3.50 off ebay for 2x100g) and mixed up a solution with hot water:

Then dropped in the part, and you can see it bubble straight away (bottom right hole).

After a day there were lots of black specs and a general browny dust settled onto the part (hole now top left).


But even after a couple of days it had only eaten about 0.5mm groove in the top of the tap. At this rate it was going to take weeks.

I tried a masonary bit (3mm tungsten carbide tipped) on a very low speed in the pillar drill and this gnawed away at it for about 15 minutes. The drill kept trying to wander off into the aluminium at the sides, so I flipped the part over and put the drill bit into the hole hoping this would guide it. It made a sound like it wasn't enjoying it much but I pressed on. After another 15 minutes of drilling I got to within about 4mm of the surface, and then the drill broke and got stuck in the hole. Luckily I managed to get it out. I've since put the part back in the Alum solution. I think another go with a 3mm masonary bit will have drilled the last bit out, but I think the thread might be beyond use. I could probably live without that bolt and use the other 5 but it is annoying me now. I'll clean it out and see what to do. Could enlarge the hole then make a plug with a flange on it and press it in from the reverse side, then drill and tap into that. Probably tap it before pressing it in just in case !

[Clive S]

After a day there were lots of black specs and a general browny dust settled onto the part (hole now top left).

I read something about this in an earlier post and I thought it said you had to keep it on a low light to keep it warm for it to work

[komatias]

.... it on a low heat to keep it warm for it to work

Fixed.

Have you tried putting more alum powder in to see if your concentration is too low?

[routercnc]

Hi Clive, Komatias,

I'd also read about constant heat but I don't have a hot plate and using the oven/hob was not allowed so I periodically drained some off and topped it up with water from the kettle. It was wrapped in insulating cloths to keep it warm for as long as possible.

I added about 100g of powder initially, and changed the whole lot for a new batch of 150g after a day or so. There was always some undissolved powder in the bottom even with lots of stirring which meant it was saturated at maximum concentration.

It was working, just slowly. I think a hot plate or keeping it fairly hot would give it more chance, I'll see what I can get hold of.

I don't know if drilling with the masonary bit would have taken 15 minutes without the Alum powder treatment or if several days in the Alum had softened it. I'm nearly through with the drill so when I'm next in the workshop I should break right through.

[komatias]

Masonary bits are too blunt. You would also need to spin backwards to aid removal of the tap. I have used special carbide spade drills to remove taps. The only place in the Uk that has them is
http://www.drill-service.co.uk/Produ...60000&Tool=377
Seriously considering stocking some in 2016

[routercnc]

Good to know thank you. I'd ordered a solid carbide 3mm drill a few day ago, but these look better still.

[JAZZCNC]

Please Don't get me wrong on what I'm about to say has I'm not pulling down what you have designed, it looks and sure will work great. But This design seems an awful lot of work and complexity and extra cost for no major benifit over a fixed gantry design.!

By this I mean the wide Gantry and wasted space at each end mean it will have about the same foot print and give about the same cutting area of Fixed Gantry.
If used Fixed gantry design with lifting Y axis allowing none lifting Z axis meaning minimal Z axis extension, essentialy just tool length would have been much stronger and far simpler design IMO.

Like I say just an observation which for the sake of others thought I'd mention and not pulling down what you are building or doing. It's looking great sure will work great and i'm looking forward to seeing it come along.