Before building up your hopes too much, I suggest you talk to whoever is supplying the lathe about a few of the items that have been mentioned.

The chuck backplate that usually comes with a minilathe is usually a standard sized one that takes specific sized chucks, so any thoughts of larger ones will require a chuck backplate change. Also, you will have to take into account the mass of a larger chuck will have on the fairly frail gears in the headstock. So changing out for metal gears would be a recommended option, and while you are there, you may as well fit tapered bearings to the spindle, and they will require to be preloaded correctly.

Also soft jaws are not as universally available as you seem to think. The chuck manufacturers use all sorts of different measurements when making their chucks, width of jaws, scroll size etc. So just going in and asking for a set of soft jaws for a 100mm chuck will most probably get the reply, which manufacturer? You might be lucky and the retailer knows if they are available for the chuck on your particular mini lathe, but don't count on it. I don't buy 3 or 4 jaw self centring chucks unless I can buy soft jaws at the same time, because trying to trace ones to fit later can be a real PITA.

Also, as mentioned before, the mini lathe comes ready assembled. That means it has been put together in a rough order. The final tuning depends on yourself.
Having done set up tuning on a fair few of these machines, I would say at least four or five hours to get it to a machining ready state, if you don't know what you are doing, get someone in who does know. The way the saddle, cross and compound gibs are set on these machines really does take some very fine tuning to get them right, and if they are not done correctly, you may as well kiss goodbye to fine finishes and close tolerances. Even the leadscrew usually requires tuning into position.

I am definitely not trying to put you off, I am just preparing you for what WILL be required before you can do any serious machining with it.

But once done correctly, they will usually cope with most things you can throw at them.

Also don't forget, the correct slideway oil must be introduced to all gibbed slideways before attempting to adjust, and the correct oil is NOT engine oil or WD40, use a correct way oil, usually it has a 68 in the name somewhere, it is designed to do the job properly.

Bogs