First Build 5 x 12 Steel Frame CNC router

[JAZZCNC]

BST will provide cables upto 7mtr long. This is Video I made showing there 1.8Kw set.

[AVF]

BST will provide cables upto 7mtr long. This is Video I made showing there 1.8Kw set.

Hi Jazz,
I saw your video which made me curious: would it be possible to use this 1.8kW servo and controller for driving a spindle or could I hit trouble doing so?
BTW: Nice thread - and sorry for my little hijack!

[JAZZCNC]

Hi Jazz,
I saw your video which made me curious: would it be possible to use this 1.8kW servo and controller for driving a spindle or could I hit trouble doing so?
BTW: Nice thread - and sorry for my little hijack!

Don't want to let this run on so please start another thread if you want to know more.!!. . . But yes large Servo's are often used for Lower RPM spindles. Better controllers like the Cslabs IP-A let you control the spindle using Servo. This means you can use the Encoder for spindle orientation for things like ATC or Ridged tapping etc and do things like this.!

[Scott Damman]

Got a little more done on the frame, havent had as much time as I would like in the last few days. My bed is 16 inch on center and I decided to brace in between each of the bed cross members only the first ones in so far.
.


Ballscrew
I need to finalize my plans for the X axis ballscrews so I can make mounts for them. Then motors mounts.
So a couple questions -
Do the numbers for the 2525 screw look good and make sense? On this long screw should I go with fixed:fixed mounts, I have read that this can stiffen things up a bit for a long screw.
Like some of the big guys do, can I get away with intermediate supports along the ballscrew and drive the screw? Or go the rotating ballnut route?
Do I even need the belt ratio on the X axis ballscrew? Would the motor speed be to slow without the gearing (~1600rpm at 1500ipm)? If I spin the screw, I could go direct drive with a 0 backlash coupling. Not that belting is all that difficult to implement it just takes some complexity out if I go direct coupled.

Motors
Ive run my inertia numbers multiple times with a few different numbers to try to account for some unknowns.
What I ended up with is, 2 of the 1.8kw motors for the x, the inertia ratios in my calculations worked out between 1.75 ---> 3.4 depending on the numbers. And the torque worked out between 4.25 -->5 Nm per motor, these motors are 6Nm so I feel like this is a pretty good choice.

Then for the Y I went with the 0.75kW motor 2.4Nm motor, inertia ratio calculations worked out between 2.25 --> 3.5 and the required torque was around 1.5Nm so a little headroom on torque.

I also picked that same 0.75kW motor for the Z, my inertia ratios get closer to 1.5 here and if I find issues I could change the gear ratio

If anyone has thoughts on these options for the motors Im all ears.

One thing, that I cant yet confirm, but it looks like the drives from Fred show a limit on the inertia ratio of 5. This was based on data I found online from who I think is the supplier of the drives.

Resonance
I think I will cross this bridge if/when I need to. In my day job I am a noise and vibe engineer (although automotive and nothing to do with machine design) so I may be able to figure out the correct countermeasures. I will say, as the frame sits it rings when hit, so I may borrow some accelerometers and do some impact testing (frequency response...) on the machine and just see where things are if I get ambitious.

Thanks for all the help this far!!!

[Scott Damman]

I think this will be my final Z axis design. 20 inches of travel with the ballscrew inside a 3inch x 5inch x1/4 wall box tubing. I have added supports to the internal of the box tubing to add strength and support the tubing when I cut the large slot on the backside for the ballnut.

I think this will keep it pretty compact and also plenty strong. As always comments are appreciated.

Thanks
Scott

[Scott Damman]

I got a bit done on the Z axis over the weekend. When I was laying everything out for the Z I decided that 4.5 inches between linear rails was not wide enough. So I welded on some 3/8inch plate in order to widen it to 8 inches center to center on the rails.

Starting the milled slot for the ballnut to travel


Slot cut through and now cleaning up the edges



Internal view showing 2 internal supports. I figured these were needed to help keep movement to a minimum when I cut the large slot in the tube. They had to be driven in with a sledge as they were a little tight but I got them in. They are welded in place by drilling 3/8inch holes in the box tubing and then spot welding through those holes.


Begining the face milling process. I milled a linear reference for one of the rails. The curves are just the tool paths I had to take to make it all work as my mills travel isnt enough to do the whole thing in 1 pass.


Here you can see the milled linear reference for the rail


And a blurry picture of one of the rails test fitted

[sinnsvak]

Is that a manual mill or CNC controlled? Either way, good craftmanship!