Thread: Tips for cutting 1050 aluminium
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06-04-2016 #1
Yes no reason why can't get perfect finish but get your self can of WD40 and give cutter several squirts while cutting. It will help with finish and chip sticking.
Always Try to direct the air so it's blowing chips away from direction of cut otherwise you are blowing chips back into path of the cutter which get re-cut and this affects finish.Last edited by JAZZCNC; 06-04-2016 at 08:57 AM.
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06-04-2016 #2
I use a 6040 and my most used cutter is also 3mm single flute carbide. However, I turn it from 16000 to 18000 rpm around 300mm/min when I slot up to 3mm depth, and 400-500 mm/min when doing full depth (5-10mm) outside contours. I dont think the speeds you posted first would even work on my machine.
I also think a mister is necessary, I use alcohol because I also have a fan that draws the fumes outside.
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06-04-2016 #3
I have two air nozzles at around 90 degrees blowing towards the vacuum cleaner nozzle.. so I was hoping that would be ok no matter which direction the cutter was moving.. I guess it would vary in effectiveness depending on what direction it cuts..
I've got some Draper cutting fluid here that I can use.. or is WD40 more recommended? I can pick some up this evening.. Off to get some carpet tape now. Is that the recommended tape? Ideally I'd like to put it straight on the MDF spoil board if possible? Or shall I get some spray adhesive?
@sinnsvak - are you using single flute? Which aluminium grade are you using?
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06-04-2016 #4
Single flute all the way with 6040 machines. Tried others, but my machine cant handle it. I think the grade Im cutting the most in is 6082, but I also have some unknown 5mm plate which is very sticky, but the speeds also work well on that.
Each machine, especially our type, varies so much in quality that we probably get different optimal speeds and feeds. I know the settings I posted is right for my machine because:
#1 the finish is great
#2 the sound when it cuts is like music to my ears
#3 the cutters last forever. (been on the same cutter since november, and cutting aluminium 10-20h a week.
WD40 is good stuff, but it is more messy than alcohol, which I get for free from work.
Cutting is one part of this, but fixturing sometimes takes the longest time to figure out. Try different methods and go with what works for you. I often use screws into the spoilboard to keep things in place and flat.
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06-04-2016 #5
Ah I see, yes they appear quite different some of them looking on eBay now..
Thanks for the advice.. I ended up picking up some carpet tape.. normal double sided.. carpet spray adhesive and removable bluetak spray adhesive (never heard of it before)
And the new cutters from Cutwel arrive tomorrow, so I can try again with better work holding.
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07-04-2016 #6
WD40 is the easiest, I am running a paraffin/oil mix which is basically WD but you need to watch the job closely, if the cutter dries out fully it will load up and snap in an instant, there is very little warning.
Here's one i buggered earlier ;)
The copper pipe in front of the cutter is my fogless air/coolant jet, it stopped working and that was the end of the cutter, surprisingly the cutter did not break this time - the machine had enough strength in it to carry on mashing through the metal even though the tool was completely loaded. I never managed to get the metal off the tool as its welded on.Last edited by Davek0974; 07-04-2016 at 07:43 AM.
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07-04-2016 #7
I typed aluminium 1050 in to Google and got...
Cold forming Good
Machineability Poor
This is not good stuff for a beginner, suggest you chalk it up to experience.
I avoid the softer aluminium alloys like I avoid cheap Allen keys, waste of money
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