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09-05-2016 #1
Guys, believe me, painting for me is pain in the a%%, so much that after messing too many time for this or that reason, at the end i decided to do it always absolutely properly for the best result in home conditions:
-industrial quality epoxy paint base, anti rust, salt water resistant /when on metal/
-industrial quality epoxy , whatever color i choose, they mix it for me
-industrial quality epoxy thinner
Bottom line is that all of the above combo gives 100% perfect result without any doubt, is made by the same company to work together. Costs same like normal antioxidant paint from hardware store, and much cheaper than quality spray cans, which are not even in the same league.
Plus the resistance of the epoxy paint is the top you could get in home conditions.
I had too many times made mistakes with incompatible thinners, poor drying thinners , etc...
thats my 2c on painting diy stuff
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09-05-2016 #2
Boyan - sounds like you've found what works for you - I'm likely to be stuck with off-the-shelf paint. I wouldn't even know where to start looking for what you're describing and if experience has taught me anything then I can pretty much guarantee you that if you're not 'in the trade' and you want something just a little out of the ordinary, then your wallet's going to get a hammering..!
The good news (after deciding not to wait until next week for my mistakes to cure) is that the fresh paint has come off easily to get me back to metal. I came across this solvent free stripper a while back and it works a treat - just ten minutes after coating the handles the paint was pretty much falling off 'em:
So back to square one with not too much additional ball-ache. I'll be sure to rub back the primer this time around. Thanks for all the suggestions..!
Wal.Last edited by Wal; 10-05-2016 at 12:20 AM.
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10-05-2016 #3
Hi Wal
glad to see they are cleaning up OK.
Try this
http://www.arcritepaints.com/proxl-p...vings-23-p.asp
can't emphasize enough that you need etch primer on zink/ally/galvo/ect.
Hope that is of some help.
Mike
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10-05-2016 #4
Cheers Mike,
I've got a couple of the handles re-primed with the conventional primer, they smoothed out nice this time around, so I'm hoping for a better gloss finish. Never come across etch primer before - I may end up using it before this job's done, thanks for the link!
Wal.
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10-05-2016 #5
Aerosol paints are a pain in that they tend to be very low in viscosity, that makes the difference between a "wet coat" which will achieve a flat surface and "running off onto the floor" a very fine line to tread ;-)
+1 on etch for non-ferrous metalsYou think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D
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10-05-2016 #6
Argh Painting.!!! That why I bought plastic coater.?. . . . Now every thing gets plastic coated. .
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24-05-2016 #7
Quick update on this - I stuck with the regular non-ferrous primer (as I have a couple of cans of the stuff) and made sure that I rubbed it down properly with an old sock to knock the dusty texture off the primer coat. Then it was 2 light coats of black gloss followed by one slightly heavier coat - now I'm totally getting what Magicniner was saying in his post on the previous page... You've really got to watch for that fine line between the paint building up into a layer just thick enough to give you a glossy coat - too much more after that and I can see that it would have run. Luckily I was paying attention and the finish came out pretty sweet...
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