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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by Davek0974 View Post
    I can pull the lot, fit a 1.8kw AC servo rated to 3000rpm, 1:1 poly-v drive and along with the back-gear if ever needed would give me full control from G-code - total cost about £400

    So we are looking at about £300 difference for luxury servo drive??

    What to do ;)
    Thats £300 extra for what.? Ridgid tapping that you don't need.! Indexed postioning you don't need because no ATC.!
    Controller will give you every thing you need regards speed control etc from G-code using VFD just like it would if Servo so don't see the point.
    Only advantage I see is the indexing and possibly extra torque at lower speeds, but you have back gear so not problem.

    Save the Dosh and spend it else where.!

  2. #2
    Yep, it was a nice thought but had a good think over dinner and using the existing motor and VFD is the sensible option. As said, rigid tapping is not needed and using the variable mechanical drive with the VFD as well will give full spread of speed and torque from 40 to 3000rpm if using back-gear or 400 to 3000rpm in high alone. My tweaked macro will tell me where the mechanical dial needs to be so problem really.

    It was a nice thought but a luxury and cash will be needed for fitting out the cabinet etc, when i find one big enough.

  3. #3
    CSMIO, servo motors and drives arrived a minute ago, all looks very heavy-duty indeed, just ordered a DB25 break-out block for the MPG unit and one of the neat little power divider blocks from CS-Labs :)

    Got the mill head stripped, paint on order, removed all the surplus gears and junk from the head.

    Wondering about doing the neat Z axis fit where the ball-screw takes the place of the feed-stop screw and is a 1605 unit OR doing the more common fit where the ball-screw sits in front of the original feed-stop screw position???

    The only downside I see with the first option is that the pulley sits at the bottom of the screw right in front of the spindle nose.

  4. #4
    I will send you a photo of my setup later on. I have made parts to allow me to use the manual quill with the removal of a single screw.

    Also look on CNCzone for SCzEngrgGroup's conversion of the bridgy.
    https://emvioeng.com
    Machine tools and 3D printing supplies. Expanding constantly.

  5. #5
    Have motion on the test motor now :)

    Needs tuning i am told but there does not seem to be a tuning option in the drive menu??

    I did an auto-tune in CSMIO but that only goes so far, even the manual tells me it needs to have the drive velocity tuned in the driver before auto-tuning or it will fail.

  6. #6
    Sounds like a question for Jazz, write that you've decided to use a 6560 and he will appear
    Last edited by lucan07; 24-05-2016 at 01:32 PM.

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  8. #7
    It seems the drive is pre-set when enter the motor code number so no tuning in the amp.

    Have finally got the head apart on the mill - a tiny broken shaft was holding me up - an absolute bugger to get out.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Now thats off it should move a bit more rapidly. The plan is to do a complete strip, wire-brush the poor repaint job it has off then sand and repaint in "Bridgeport Grey" engine enamel and reassemble to a bare machine then fit the CNC conversion.

    The DRO and Original, working power-feeds will be sold off to raise funds.

    Space is the biggest problem, will probably have to erect a shelter and do most of the prep in the garden.

  9. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by lucan07 View Post
    Sounds like a question for Jazz, write that you've decided to use a 6560 and he will appear
    No I won't .!! . . . . Because I already told him via Private bongo's.

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