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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    I'm not into jealousy but I am realist and know there's no way he's measuring 0.02mm over 3000mm like he's claimed in the past or even over shorter distance.!! . . . Ask me why.?

    Ok I'll tell you.!! . . . . . Would be bloody impossible because he's using C7 ballscrews From China which at best will only give 0.05mm over 300mm. Then throw in few belts/pulleys etc and this goes down further.

    So who's fooling who.?
    When did I make that claim? This is my first build and I don't see that claim made :/? I think you grossly underestimate my realism..

    Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Slixxor; 27-12-2016 at 05:54 PM.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Slixxor View Post
    Looking goid mate! Tack welds are the way to go. And lots of clamping. I would have got a piece of say 35x70mm box tube and clamped it in several places to the flat bar piece you were working on. Then going from the outsides in to the middle as your box frame will also slightly warp from the welds. Tack everything first then repeat the clamping process all over again with your filler welds.

    It's hard with long runs like that. Partly the reason bojan S uses C channel for his bed. Although I find welding much easier, drilling and bolting would have given a better result.

    Whats the link for your thread?

    Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
    My frame was not more than 1mm warp as I tack it everything and weld one bead at the time, cool down and opposite side and so on. I have to admit that I broke my rule and did not let to cool enough (firstly was warp corners down than after cool opposite) - £100+ waste on steel and gas, lesson learnt. I bit it with sledge hammer, driven by the car and finally filled down, so my 8mm bars became 4mm in places:)
    Now I use Tig just to see if I can do better
    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom J View Post
    My frame was not more than 1mm warp as I tack it everything and weld one bead at the time, cool down and opposite side and so on. I have to admit that I broke my rule and did not let to cool enough (firstly was warp corners down than after cool opposite) - £100+ waste on steel and gas, lesson learnt. I bit it with sledge hammer, driven by the car and finally filled down, so my 8mm bars became 4mm in places:)
    Now I use Tig just to see if I can do better
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	20098Click image for larger version. 

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    TIG will give a better result but will still warp. Either way it can be a pickle when working with steel. I still haven't decided what bed to go with on mine. I will probably do MDF to start with.

    Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

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