New build - Steel - 3 Axis initially then conversion to 4 axis.

**Slixxor** · 27-12-2016

Originally Posted by Tom J

My frame was not more than 1mm warp as I tack it everything and weld one bead at the time, cool down and opposite side and so on. I have to admit that I broke my rule and did not let to cool enough (firstly was warp corners down than after cool opposite) - £100+ waste on steel and gas, lesson learnt. I bit it with sledge hammer, driven by the car and finally filled down, so my 8mm bars became 4mm in places:)
Now I use Tig just to see if I can do better
Attachment 20098 Attachment 20099

TIG will give a better result but will still warp. Either way it can be a pickle when working with steel. I still haven't decided what bed to go with on mine. I will probably do MDF to start with.

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**JAZZCNC** · 27-12-2016

Originally Posted by Slixxor

When did I make that claim? This is my first build and I don't see that claim made :/? I think you grossly underestimate my realism..

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Crossed purposes wasn't talking about you with that statement.

Originally Posted by Slixxor

I just like the way you assumed I needed to be more careful. What exactly gives you the impression I haven't been?

Because I'm not blind and can see there's been no machine work done on any of those surfaces or any thought regards rails being on same plane etc.
I've never yet seen piece of angle iron that is perfectly flat or 90deg and you are bolting straight to the face of one.

Then we have the heat put into the metal which can clearly be seen. You can Stitch it with pigeon Shit and beat the shite out of it all you like but it will still be warped or twisted in some way unless you take other steps to correct it.

All these little things will bite and like I've said your lucky your using round rail. Profiled linear rail would just not tolerate this level of in accuracy and bind up solid.

Edit: Just to be anal and prove my point look at this picture and tell me whats wrong.?

Click image for larger version.

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**Clive S** · 27-12-2016

Originally Posted by Slixxor

When did I make that claim? This is my first build and I don't see that claim made :/? I think you grossly underestimate my realism..

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If you read it again Dean was not referring to you with the above It was a claim made by another on the forum.

Hence the reason I will see how it goes when it's done. I've endeavoured to make it as square as possible on all axes and feel comfortable that I've managed to achieve that within the best of my ability.

At the end of the day that is all anybody can do. Looking forward to seeing the first cut

**Slixxor** · 28-12-2016

You sir have a much better personality. I think JAZZCNC needs a holiday by the sounds.. Clive, legend as always ;)

**Slixxor** · 28-12-2016

Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Crossed purposes wasn't talking about you with that statement.

Because I'm not blind and can see there's been no machine work done on any of those surfaces or any thought regards rails being on same plane etc.
I've never yet seen piece of angle iron that is perfectly flat or 90deg and you are bolting straight to the face of one.

Then we have the heat put into the metal which can clearly be seen. You can Stitch it with pigeon Shit and beat the shite out of it all you like but it will still be warped or twisted in some way unless you take other steps to correct it.

All these little things will bite and like I've said your lucky your using round rail. Profiled linear rail would just not tolerate this level of in accuracy and bind up solid.

Edit: Just to be anal and prove my point look at this picture and tell me whats wrong.?

You are referring to me shaping it? I don't see the problem? what are you suggesting? (genuinely asking)

**spluppit** · 28-12-2016

Having a good read of this thread I'm rather speechless and even more speechless with the commentary that goes with your posts Slixxor, you can educate yourself so well on the internet of the basics it' just takes a bit of time to learn and absorb. I'm not going to pick up on individual things because would be here until the 1st of January. This is not a good advert for someone to have a go at home. You are one brave man to post this publicly.

**Slixxor** · 28-12-2016

Originally Posted by spluppit

Having a good read of this thread I'm rather speechless and even more speechless with the commentary that goes with your posts Slixxor, you can educate yourself so well on the internet of the basics it' just takes a bit of time to learn and absorb. I'm not going to pick up on individual things because would be here until the 1st of January. This is not a good advert for someone to have a go at home. You are one brave man to post this publicly.

Im confused what bewilders you? Can you elaborate? I dont see how my build is different to any other. And my comments are far from offensive. Do you just not like the design. Im confused

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**routercnc** · 28-12-2016

In post #32 the Z bearings are trapped between the fixed distance between the angle iron sections. This means they cannot sit naturally, or have any pre-load control, and you can't adjust it either.

I'm guessing you welded it together with the angle iron bolted to the bearings? If you release the bolts into the Z bearings do they slide out easily from under the Z axis (which is what you want), or does the Z axis 'spring away' or 'close up'? Ideally this should be a nice gentle fit onto the bearings , or possibly have a slight bit of pre-load.

**Slixxor** · 28-12-2016

Originally Posted by routercnc

In post #32 the Z bearings are trapped between the fixed distance between the angle iron sections. This means they cannot sit naturally, or have any pre-load control, and you can't adjust it either.

I'm guessing you welded it together with the angle iron bolted to the bearings? If you release the bolts into the Z bearings do they slide out easily from under the Z axis (which is what you want), or does the Z axis 'spring away' or 'close up'? Ideally this should be a nice gentle fit onto the bearings , or possibly have a slight bit of pre-load.

When welded they werent bolted on. Just the outer frame clamped onto both sides with pressure applied. When loosened there is slight rubbing on the bearing blocks but minimal force is required to remove them. If on an angle they scrape and fall straight out. The bearing holes were drilled afterwards with bearing blocks on the rails with no tension. The rear of the bearings were coated with steel blue and the top casing was slid over the bearing blocks creating the guide for my bearing block drilling die I'd made.

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**JAZZCNC** · 28-12-2016

Originally Posted by Slixxor

You sir have a much better personality. I think JAZZCNC needs a holiday by the sounds.. Clive, legend as always ;)

Oh so your YES man well tough luck because if it's shit you'll get told it's shit by me.! . . . . Like wise if it's good I'll say so as well but I see nothing here that's good.!

To be fair I've been very kind on what I've commented so far, mainly because not got full week spare to list all that's bad.!

Originally Posted by Slixxor

You are referring to me shaping it? I don't see the problem? what are you suggesting? (genuinely asking)

Nothing to do with shaping and every thing to do with being warped and surfaces not on same plane. Then generally just weak poor rough arsed engineering which for CNC won't cut it.
Just because your using steel doesn't mean it's stronger. If the design is weak and poorly built which this is then doesn't matter if built from 2" steel material or 0.1" aluminum (note Ref in American just to so can understand . .lol) you'll never succeed in achieving accuracy or reliabilty.

Look again at this Pic for just few bits of whats wrong.!