Your thoughts on a couple of Design Ideas

I am in the throws of massaging my design and have an idea that I have not seem implimented yet......( It probably HAS but I have not seen it. )

I want to maximise my bed area as I have the Ali Plate already cut and machined ( 725 x 480mm ), so I am thinking I could extend the sides of the Frame so the Gantry Carriages can move past teh end of the bed. This will allow the Spindle to machine right to the edges.
A good idea, or very silly?

This would allow a wider spacing (200mm or so )of the Y Carriages to obtain more rigidity.
Worth doing as well?

It would mean longer Linear Rails, but not Ball screws as the mounting block would be central. I could just use the longer ball screws for build simplicity.

I also am thinking about trying to 'triangulate' the Base Frame. It won't be possible to do a full triangulation, as the spaces are not square ( rectangular ) but 2 partial braces may work ok?

Your thoughts?

Steve

Attachment 27237

Nothing wrong (or unique) with having longer rails than bed.

I've been building machines using that design for nearly 15yrs. My first machine was one of the first DIY machines I'd seen that used this setup, it also used raised sides so gantry sat directly on rails and height-adjustable bed. It works well.

Edit: This machine also had the option for a 4th axis to be fitted on the end, also a vertical fixture plate for clamping material to allow Dovetailing or Hinge and Mortice work on doors.Etc

Here's one I built about 5yrs ago.

Attachment 27257

If you use 80x80x3mm or 100x100x3 / better IMO/ then there will be no need for bracing and triangulation which will simplify greatly the build.

Even 60x60 a bit thicker or properly spaced is ok but i prefer the above for simplicity. Avoid triangulation for simplicity's sake.


There are many designs but the design that Dean shows above is my favourite for a DIY router. Especially due to the fact that is more dust and liquid resistant than any other. Plus easier to achieve high precision than others. And most people here even do it so you could move bed up and down.

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

I've been building machines using that design for nearly 15yrs. My first machine was one of the first DIY machines I'd seen that used this setup, it also used raised sides so gantry sat directly on rails and height-adjustable bed. It works well.

Edit: This machine also had the option for a 4th axis to be fitted on the end, also a vertical fixture plate for clamping material to allow Dovetailing or Hinge and Mortice work on doors.Etc

Here's one I built about 5yrs ago.

Attachment 27257

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Thanks Jazz. I haven't noticed machines using longer rails than the beds....I had better look harder next time....

Good to know it s a sound method..

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Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski

If you use 80x80x3mm or 100x100x3 / better IMO/ then there will be no need for bracing and triangulation which will simplify greatly the build.

Even 60x60 a bit thicker or properly spaced is ok but i prefer the above for simplicity. Avoid triangulation for simplicity's sake.


There are many designs but the design that Dean shows above is my favourite for a DIY router. Especially due to the fact that is more dust and liquid resistant than any other. Plus easier to achieve high precision than others. And most people here even do it so you could move bed up and down.

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Thanks Boyan...I will keep those points in mind.
Triangulation*was* going to be challenging....The Solid ALi Bed will bolt directly to the frame so I guess that negates the need as well..

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Originally Posted by Sterob

The Solid ALi Bed will bolt directly to the frame so I guess that negates the need as well..

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Not at all. The bed will offer very little stiffness if the rest of the frame isn't good enough. The frame is the foundation and like any structure, it will fail if the foundations are poor.

The key is to try and lower vibrations so triangulation and bracing should be used with this goal in mind.

I would also hold off on the Aluminium bed unless you are really sure that it will be needed because you'll probably find it's covered most of the time with a Spoil board of some kind so not to cut into it, usually MDF. An aluminum T-slot type or even a Matrix of holes type bed can become an expensive base that isn't required for most wood routers as you'll often be screwing parts down into waste material or screwing clamps etc into areas that you couldn't reach with a T-slot type aluminum bed.

Ive already aquired the Aluminium plate for the bed.
Was thinking of using MDF spoilboard fitted with T slots.

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