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Exactly what i am doing. Running it on the most expensive antifreeze and distilled water. The pink one. But after 2 years maybe from the heat here in Spain, even in the antifreeze tank something develops, like a veil or to say like a jelly . So then it has to be changed or just cleaned. I highly recommend the antifreeze to be in a transparent tank so you could see if that happens to you.Quote:
Originally Posted by m_c
If I was using a water cooled spindle I would be thinking about fitting one of these; https://www.fernox.com/filters/tf1-compact-filter or similar, they collect all the crap and have a very strong magnet.
Do addatives for central heating work for spindle cooling systems ?
When we replaced our boiler a few years ago we fitted one of those and it works a treat. Traps the black (iron oxide?) which comes off the inside of the steel radiator panels and keeps the boiler matrix clearQuote:
Originally Posted by EddyCurrent
But spindle is chrome steel I think and pipe and pump blades are plastic so not sure it Fernox filter would work? The stuff that blocks my spindle is more like salt deposit which I guess comes from the liquid itself. I'm using fancy bottled PC water cooling liquid but may switch to buying distilled water and adding some antifreeze.
I have fitted many of these type and are great in central heating system to collect the iron deposits , I am not so sure they will work with the spindle. I use this stuff http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/ca...KidhoCSLzw_wcB and a bit of antifreeze and never had any trouble.Quote:
Originally Posted by EddyCurrent
My spindle rusting from the inside out doesn't sound good :(
Why they didn't add £30 to spindle cost and use a stainless steel tank you have to wonder at least the option would be nice.
I have a Reverse Osmosis filter which essentially produces the same as distilled water so I will use this for my system with some blue antifreeze as I have a 200l barrel at work lol.
Has anyone tried one of these, looking for an attachment that I can use to grind on Thor.
http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalo...g_Spindle.html
That dust will sand the rails and ball screw if everything is not airtight. Just the thought of it will make any machinist shudder . I guess i am becoming a machinist :anonymous:Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaz
Chaz - that looks suspiciously like a ready-built grinding spindle for the Quorn tool and cutter grinder. This was a design from 1974, sold as a kit of castings and hard-to-get materials. Quite a lot of kits have been sold, and some of them actually built! From that point of view, it's a tried and tested design with nothing exotic about it. The original used labyrinth seals (a series of fine grooves) rather than the lip seals in the advert but maybe materials have improved in the last 40 years :smile: By all accounts, they work very well for fine grinding and people use them as toolpost grinders in lathes. Light duty, though - not for heavy-duty work. Plenty of references to the Quorn via Google. I have a set of castings under the bench that have been maturing for the last 30 years or so - come back in 10 years and I'll tell you how it works from personal experience...Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaz
Yep, never get any grinding dust near a machine with slides, ways or screws, unless its a machine built for grinding - instant death of many a lathe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski
Ill post some updated pics of Thor this weekend as I complete the new table and a few bits.
I have also bought a lathe (another thread) that I was going to convert into CNC or build a new one. I then started to think of a 4th axis for Thor which I could use the same headstock for. Perhaps not good as as dividing head however this then opened up a bit of a Eureka moment this morning in the shower (one of the many places for inspirational thinking).
Here's my thoughts.
Take the headstock, mount on Thor's table. Find a way to fit a motor and spin the headstock at lathe type speeds.
Create a new Mach 3 profile, I assume that that I can now assign different axis to different channels, using the CS Labs plugin. This means that my current X can become my new Z (for lathe use). I can then either use the current Z or Y to do the lathe X. This will depend on where / how I can mount lathe tools.
For the lathe tooling, this needs to be mounted on the current spindle mount plate. I can move the current spindle and aim to have more than one 'device' hanging off the main Z plate. From this - I can either try and direct mount some tools however the best approach is likely to mount a turret of sorts. This will allow tools that profile and face to be used, as well as anything that needs to drill or bore.
Any reason this might not work or is an obvious bad idea?
Thanks
Ill take that as a no then ;p
In terms of Acceleration, how much would be considered good or 'too much'?
Acceleration needs to be as high as it can take. Acceleration is more important than speed.
Thanks. I had it set to 1500, then down to 750 which is too slow. The machine seems OK with it being 2000 which Ill try for a while and see.Quote:
Originally Posted by Davek0974
It is doable, however, the big question I'd ask is, how much effort is it going to be to swap between lathe and router?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaz
Understood. If the lathe tools / turrets are mounted to the right of the spindle, it could be as easy as just starting the correct Mach 3 profile, no other work needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by m_c
Have you ever checked out Cliffs Utube channel ? He does some cool stuff with gang tooling on his Tormach.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Dx637sKKiU
Nope, checking now, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by needleworks
So Ive finally gotten around to doing something 3D. Took Thor's hammer (Mjolnir) and then cut in half and milled it out. Looks like an anchor unfortunately.
However .....
1.5mm ballend mill, 24K RPM, 0.1mm stepover, scallop operation in Fusion 360, around 25 mins.
Normal camera pic and then two high res macro pics to show warts and all. From the naked eye the part looks good. Polishing / Finishing will improve it even further.
Attachment 22284Attachment 22285Attachment 22286Attachment 22287
And this works exactly as the idea I came up with for Thor. I need to look at implementation and the ease of moving the 4th axis off (and remounting accurately).Quote:
Originally Posted by needleworks
Yea I was going to suggest the RapidTurn unit to you as I also follow Cliffs channel, I would imagine your best bet would be to use some real hard stops you can then "bump" into for locating, as you say implementation on Thor is tricky because you dont want those fixtures to get in the way for other jobs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaz
Thanks for taking the time to take and share the macro shots, its nice to see exactly what the finish is like from different machines.
Having now seen Thor in real life I can tell you the pictures do not do it justice and then she moves and when she moves the earth moves with her lol.
A true work of art
No problem, Ill do more of it as I do more machining and work out the good / bad / ugly of the machine's ability.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Roberts
The macro shot makes the part look fairly horrible however in reality, its not. Its 'as it comes' and can easily be polished up.
Does anyone know what NT30 spindle this guy might be referring to?
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/uncate...uminium-4.html
Impressive little machine ....
That guy has his shit together ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaz
This bit I found interesting and I never considered but makes a lot of sense makes no difference to your machine though lol.
"When you go with Chinese ballscrews, I think it is better to go with 5mm pitch, at least in my case as I dont need very fast rapids, due to force of the ball on screw. 10mm pitch screws will produce twice as much force on the wall of screw, and I wouldnt be surprised to see backlash even faster on 10mm pitch screws."
Some update pics of Thor. Need to finish the enclosure and 4th axis / lathe setup.Attachment 22346Attachment 22347Attachment 22348Attachment 22349Attachment 22350Attachment 22351
Does anyone know how to deal with dual probes, on NC and one NO, going into the same probe input?
Can I run two probe inputs?
This is the issue, how else to wire this (goes into CS Labs) input 3.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4383/3...ea4d3f8e_b.jpg
you could use a relay on one output to get both of them to NO or NCQuote:
Originally Posted by Chaz
I've been thinking about exactly this problem for my own machine (also using CSMIO). I haven't built the touch probe yet but I was intending to use a simple bit of circuitry to invert one of the signals and then combine them. I'm not sure that you can solve the problem without adding something outside the CSMIO as it only has one input that is suitable for the job.
You need to invert the NC signal to NO, otherwise the probes will interfere with each other if run in parallel.
My preference is to run probes NC, as then any circuit failure triggers a stop, but then you'd either need a switch to swap between probes, or wire them in series.
Either would be possible with a transistor or two, and a couple resistors.
I emailed the probe vendor as the tip is not concentric. He responded with some info on how it can be calibrated. I then searched and found this - http://www.machsupport.com/forum/ind...c,17766.0.html - Whilst this doesnt fix the actual issue, it looks like I can use the same prob or perhaps two of them for different uses (I bought two as I was importing it from the US anyways). Perhaps next time I should pay attention to the other stuff in the box.
What probe did you buy?
One thing you'll need to check, is what voltage/current the probe is designed to work with. I made up a small interface board for my probe, so it was only switching the designed 5V, so I could use it to switch a 24V opto. Details can be found in this post over on the mach forum - http://www.machsupport.com/forum/ind...html#msg195436
Two of these, almost a year ago, lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by m_c
https://www.machsupport.com/forum/in...ic,5004.0.html
So Ive bit the bullet and bought a 'proper' probe. Its mechanical, not electrical and I want to make an arm for it like the Datron has that comes down, probes and I can then move it back in the 'up' position when not needed. Thinking to use some form of offsets to make this work.
How do I manage with an arm to rotate 180 degrees? Arduino Uno and servo? Id need a fairly strong servo me thinks ....
Thoughts?
Attachment 22695
Do you think it is possible to rotate about a hole/pin and get the repeatability ? How about sliding the arm up and down with a piece of spring steel to hold it against a ground edge? Could have a slot in the middle with a fixed dowel pin to give top and bottom end stops. Then add detents for top and bottom position. Manually move it up and down as required or drive it via a motor with a cam?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaz
Well, I'm bad with this type of thinking. Datron have this on their machines (it pivots 180 down), so there must be a way but im not against it going up / down instead, anything I can look at on Youtube for inspiration?Quote:
Originally Posted by routercnc
So Thor has had a bit of an upgrade / make over.
Spot the difference.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4498/2...71b483db_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4449/3...36f76b06_b.jpg
Go on Chaz give us a clue:devilish:
On another note what is the max spindle speed and a link to it would be nice.
I know the answer but you told me lol having seen Thor though I could have spotted it anyway ;)
Congrats ;)
Its an HSD ES909. 6.8KW 24K RPM with ISO 30 tool holding. Small issue to actually power it but working on that. It runs happily off 220V, even though its a 380V unit. I cant get to the wiring to Delta the motor (these came as options for both voltages) so I'm hoping that I can run off 220V for now. It has two thermisotors which will trip if it gets too hot. I dont need to cut at 6 KW, even at 2KW im removing a fair bit of material and I now have an tool changer. Buying balanced ISO 30 holders is pricy but will build up a collection once I am happy that this works reliably.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
A quick test cut. Looks like Ill be ordering more tool holders. Happy with the initial results. My Z is fairly heavy however (As predicted), might need to look at changing the gearing on both X and Z axis now.
https://youtu.be/wNhXCupy59E