Hi
Version 22 of Mach 3 is working way better! Here’s a video of my first proper little project. No issues [emoji106][emoji3] https://youtu.be/JBjDpcFo2nk
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Hi
Version 22 of Mach 3 is working way better! Here’s a video of my first proper little project. No issues [emoji106][emoji3] https://youtu.be/JBjDpcFo2nk
Good stuff - I was happy with .028 but I doubt that there's much difference. Only key feature is whether or not it works!
Haha yes very true. I went with 22 as it seems to be what CS Labs recommends.Quote:
Originally Posted by Neale
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:toot::toot::toot: The boy's feeling it now...:toot::toot:Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeHarris
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4afb67b55c.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
That Hangboard's a cool little project. Very nice indeed.
Wal.
I have completed a few successful projects now, pocketing, profiling and v-carving, all without much of a hitch. But trying some 3D (2.5D) carving has resulted in my z axis behaving badly again! Part way though a roughing toolpath the z axis started moving a little erratically and then stalled a few times (I think). It moved up and started milling above the work piece. I pressed feedhold then stopped the machine, the spindle stopped but the z axis kept making jolting movements in an upward direction?! It only stopped it's mad movements when I hit the emergency stop. I am going to throttle back the motor tuning some more on Z to see if it relates to that, but it seems very odd to me that it would carry on moving after being told to stop. Has anyone else had a similar issue?Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyUK
Don't know why it's doing this never seen it before but the reason it kept going after feed hold was because it was emptying the buffer.
Have you done a check to see if your missing steps from the pulse being on the wrong side of the edge.? If not then Zero the Z-axis and mark it's position then write some G-code so it moves back n forth several 100 times, only needs to be short moves. Make the last move go back to Zero.
If it doesn't return to the mark then you need to change the active Hi/Low in motor tuning for that Axis.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
Thanks Dean, no I don’t think I ever did that test on the Z axis but I did on the other two. I’ll give it a go and see, but really wanted to finish this job!
I reduced the Velocity on z from 2.5m/min to 2m/min and the acceleration from 250 to 200 and ran the roughing pass again a little slower than before and it cut to the end without any trouble (although it is hard to tell if it lost any steps as it is only a roughing toolpath). But once it was done and had gone back to zero for the tool change it kept making little erratic movements again. Could this still be to do with buffering if it is stopped for a tool change? I videoed it for a few seconds this time, if you have the sound on you can here it making little jerky moves. This was at the tool change so no g-code to tell it to move and nothing changing on the DRO. I don’t get it?
https://youtu.be/m1vlkqPeVMM
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No Joe that's definitely not the buffer...Lol
It looks very much like a noise issue.? But knowing your setup and the fact spindle isn't running I'd be surprised if it was.! . . . . Have you grounded the chassis.?
I'd be going over all the wire connections in the control box first looking for loose connections or stray wires. Also If you have any plug connections like DIN sockets on motor cables I'd check them out as well, in fact, chop them off and throw them in the bin as they are a pain in the arse.!!
The motors are soldered to the cy cable and are wired directly to the drives - no connectors! And the cy shields are grounded at a star ground in the cabinet.Quote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
But... The frame is not grounded independently come to think of it, should I take a connection from the steel back to star ground? Is that what you mean by chassis?
I will go hunting for loose connections but pretty sure they are all good as I checked last time I had issues...
The last time (previous post) when I stopped the machine after noticing a problem, it carried on doing these movements after both feedhold and stop, it was only the estop cutting power to the motor that stopped it.
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Yes, run a wire from the Star point to the Frame and if you want to take the belt n braces approach then run another to the gantry just in case it's not earthing thru the bearings very well.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeHarris
Do this before doing anything else. That way you'll see if your problems go away just from this.
Well Jazz saves the day again! Amazingly a bit of wire stripped from some twin and earth I had laying around bolted into the frame and back to star ground seems to have done the trick! Ran the machine for 8.5hours continuously without any issues. Cheers Dean [emoji481]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...135b00bfe8.jpg
Here’s what I was making - a topographical map of (part of) the Middle East cut from Ash. 1st 3D work I’ve tried with the machine.
Top left is Antalya in Turkey and the Taurus mountains, then clockwise Cyprus top middle, the Mediterranean coast of Syria and Lebanon, then Israel and Jordan, the Sinai peninsula, Red Sea and finally Suez, and the Nile opening out into the Mediterranean. Pretty pleased with how it turned out.
Took about 10.5 hours total to cut. Roughed with a 10mm straight cutter then finished with a 1mm radius tapered ballnose.
Nice Job Joe
Great to see it in action.
Regards
Mike
Please to see your sorted Joe. :thumsup:
Nice job on the 3D work, Can't beat a 3D file to test the build quality and accuracy of a machine, certainly nothing wrong with your machine. :toot:
Little video showing the machine cutting the map for anyone interested in seeing it!
https://youtu.be/xxuR7IvlSUg
https://youtu.be/xxuR7IvlSUg
Looking great! It's quite satisfying watching the work appear out of a block, isn't it?
How have you found using the tapered ballnose? I've only got standard ballnose currently, but the tapered look interesting and looks like you can get much longer shaft lengths which is something I've been struggling with.
Also love the Ash; finding a supplier of wood that isn't DIY/Building trade focus is something I'm also struggling with.
It sure is, hard to leave it alone! The tapered ballnose worked better than I expected. It was a ‘cheap’ Chinese one from SpeTool on Amazon so I wasn’t expecting great things, but couldn’t fault it really. For hardwood, have you tried local sawmills? A couple near me (within 40mins) have offcut sheds with some decent lumps available for quite reasonable pricesQuote:
Originally Posted by AndyUK