Thanks. Ill try that.Quote:
Originally Posted by i2i
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Thanks. Ill try that.Quote:
Originally Posted by i2i
i think the separate line was to move the z after the x. This is in a macro.
That's worked, thanks. Need to understand why the post processor is inserting G28 lines. My machine cant seem to do anything with them.Quote:
Originally Posted by i2i
Does anyone know what BOB this is? I am looking to see why the flood coolant wont come on. I have no wiring diagram but managed to trace it to the main contactor, there is no 24V wired to switch it on and off. Need to find the relay output and wire it up. I found some generic looking BOBs online but nothing exactly the same. Suppose I could ring out each set of 2 output but prefer the manual so I can see more about the board.
I also need to figure out how to wire up the lube system however as the spindle uses RS485 logic, will have to find another way to do that. Does the lube system run full time when the spindle is on like in my Triac mill?
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8003/2...5168cf1d_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8230/2...f7083254_b.jpg
OK, found it.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...32479545,d.bGs
It's basically the same one in the link. Yay, at least now I can see some wiring options.
Managed to get the lube pump working however there are two wires that go to some sensor / switch on the Vogel unit. Does anyone know what it is? It looks like some form of solenoid, 24V to activate?
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5808/3...745365e1_b.jpg
Looks a like a pressure switch, or possibly sensor.
What's stamped on the side of it?
And is there a small adjusting screw between the terminals? It may of been sealed over with some sealer/paint (if it has a screw, then it's most likely a switch)
.
Probably some form of monitoring that tells the controller that lube is actually being pumped. Where does the wiring go to?
Do you know if it's a one shot type pump (fires single shot every xx minutes), or a continual pressure pump (pumps/maintains pressure constantly)?
The wiring goes nowhere. It ends with a wire with 2 ends and labelled 'lube pump'. Thing is - pump runs with a relay activated. I dont know what this does. I might try and open it to see.Quote:
Originally Posted by m_c
The manual talks about only running the lube pump once the slides have moved 16meters. Since this is now a Mach 3 system, there will be no such logic.
Does anyone know what parting tool actually fits into this turret? Most are too long and cannot turn behind the turret when it does a tool change.
It's definitely a sensor of some kind, as it just connected via bog standard T-piece.
It could be the pump is designed to only run for a set period, after a set pressure has been reached, then switch off. If it's a continual pressure pump, then I suspect it's not meant to run continuously on such a small machine.
.
I'd guess just a pretty standard insert parting tool would work (small tip type, not big flat blade type), with the holder cut shorter if needed.
Thanks. The problem is to tighten into the slot you need to get behind the tool. Ive done some CAD drawings of the setup. Just rendering them quick, not sure if it will show the issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by m_c
I made a bracket but out of alu which bent. Might try one from steel instead. The issue is the Glanze tool I have has a max of 25mm, so not ideal. The blade type would be better.
Ive drawn the blade holder in glass to see through it. It can be shortened, as it will hit the rear of the turret (centre).
The issue is how to tighten the 'spacers' that are use to squeeze the 12mm tight against the turret (vertically)?
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5650/3...5ba59bef_b.jpg
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5541/3...75ea0543_b.jpg
The question is how to get to the nuts to tighten up.
I could drill the holes at 30 degree and use the drill bit holder 'holes'. A bit risky and need a sine vice for that. Alternately perhaps cut slots to allow me to get to the size 8 spanner to tighten up.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5833/3...1a0003ff_b.jpg
What diameter would you like to part?
Well, more than 25 if possible. There will be a limit, need to measure the max. With blades this can be adjusted.Quote:
Originally Posted by m_c
GTN style insert up to 32mm diameter - https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/part-off-...2mm-shank.html
WDN style insert up to 26mm diameter - https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/external-...max-depth.html
(APT do do a 32mm version, but they're showing as out of stock)
I personally use the WDN style, as I couldn't find a reasonably priced 12x12 shank holder for GTN types when I was originally buying holders.
Thanks. This one will be better. What I do need to find out from APT is the size of the 'head'. If its too long, then even cutting some of the rear off doesnt help as the head will protrude. This is the issue I have with the Glanze unit that I have.Quote:
Originally Posted by m_c
If I remember, I'll get some rough measurements for you when I'm in the workshop later, as I've got a couple different ones.
Thanks. Appreciated. Ive emailed APT support, ive used them in the past and they are really good but finding a parting solution for this otherwise excellent little CNC lathe.Quote:
Originally Posted by m_c
The easy way is to use one of these relay modules triggered by a spare output A or B (Pulse or Direction). You can get the relays in singles or multiples at least up to 8 on one board.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaz
Attachment 19675
Oh, thanks. Didnt know this was possible. Do you have a link or similar to one of these please?Quote:
Originally Posted by cropwell
They are all over eBay, just search for 'relay module 5v' and limit to UK if you want it fast.
Here's one example of a supplier - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-4-8-16...f5lyx157fF9xGQ
Cheers,
Rob
Awesome thanks
That should work well. Does it take much messing about with Mach3 to get this to work?
Attachment 19676Attachment 19677 I use P16 for coolant (just an air blower really) and P17 to turn the spindle on (Kress, not a three phase one with speed control)
You may like to play with active high / low and whether you connect to NO or NC on the relay as there can be some activity on the pins before Mach3 takes control.
Cheers,
Rob
Realised earlier that I've actually got a GTN style in the lathe just now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaz
It's this one - https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/part-off-...2mm-shank.html
Tip to the back of the head is about 26mm. I only remembered after I'd turned the lathe off, and the parting tool was at a less than ideal angle to accurately measure.
I also measured a 26mm diameter WDN holder, and the tip to back of head is 21.1mm
Thanks. Hadnt seen your reply but APT believe it should fit so ive ordered one of these.Quote:
Originally Posted by m_c
Thanks. Appreciated.Quote:
Originally Posted by cropwell
So I ordered this one - https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/part-off-...2mm-shank.html. Its like 2mm too long but I can grind away some of the lip that's in the way. Kudos to APT for the quick delivery as usual.
Hi, does your lathe have a Baruffaldi TOE80 turret like on a denford cyclone?
http://www.1stmachinery.com/Resource.../1008_6790.JPG
Is so I have a few spare blocks and boring bar sleeves that i made up and also some spare ER25 and ER16 Holders that I bought and modified to suit the 25mm tool holder if you are interested
Nope, similar but not as 'angular' as that. Ill take some pics.Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesgates1000
Please talk to me about Mach 3 tool ofsets.
Mine work however I am confused about one aspect.
This video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAY6M4Q7fIE shows that a Master Tool is set at zero (against an arbitary plane, defined by a bar in the chuck) and all others tools are set against this. I understand this principle, its the way I use my mill offsets.
However, what I am not sure about is how to ensure that the machine 'knows' where X is say 0 or 10mm from the centre line.
The way I have done mine is to home my machine and set all tools from this point. My DRO will therefore say '20mm' and give me a 20mm stock if I cut along that plane (both diameter mode).
The problem is that the limit switches do not repeat 100% and whilst its reasonably accurate, I am not 100% getting the same diameters once the machine is rehomed.
I could use some form of a dialguage and reference of this (for X). Thoughts?
The other option is to home the machine once, then never again. Instead of homing it I should use G Code to 'go to home' but not use the limit switch. Assuming the machine is powered down and restarted with the turret in this location, it should repeat however as I use steppers (not servo), this is not perfect. Any replacement of a tool / tool tip or need to rehome means that my 'diameters' are no longer 100%.
I find that then resetting the diameter size (John Saunders does similar) needs you to cut a part manually, then measure it and then do some sums to get the offset correct. I find this tedious and long winded. Is there a better way?
Thanks
Take test cut with known tool, don't move X after taking cut, measure cut, and enter value into X DRO.
Provided you're not doing anything that affects tool offsets into relation to each other, then you don't have to touch individual tool offsets. All you have to do is establish the actual X axis position.
However, install a decent homing switch on the X axis. On a lathe, it makes life so much easier.
Thanks. The pain here is to do a test cut .... I think you use the lower DRO here for the 'new' measurement?Quote:
Originally Posted by m_c
The homing switches look to be 'decent'. They are proximity ones. I'm not sure what the repeatability is with them. Ill do some testing over the weekend. How much 'tolerance' should I expect with homing? Better than 0.01mm?
What lower DRO?
From memory, you just enter the measured value into the main X axis DRO.
Homing accuracy depends on how accurate your parts/machine are. On my first lathe, I had an opto slot sensor that I couldn't measure any noticeable change with using a 0.01mm graduation DTI.
Sorry, on one of the videos the guy uses the tooloffset screen. I think he edits the lower DRO to get it to be the same as the measured diameter. In my case I was manually subtracting (or adding) to work out the required difference to make the reading correct. In the tooloffset screen I dont think you can edit the top DRO. Perhaps I'm just doing it in the wrong place.Quote:
Originally Posted by m_c
Ill use a dial gauge on the weekend and test repeatability.
Don't bother with the tool offset screen. Just take a test cut using one of the main screens, then measure and enter the value into the main DRO.
Thanks, that removes one of the pain in the ass with sorting this problems as I have to go from screen to screen continuously.Quote:
Originally Posted by m_c
So if my switch is not repeatable, ill set the offsets from the master tool (and use the cut / measure / input method). If it is, ill set it up from the switch.
Ive ended up setting offsets the painful way from the homing switch, seems to work better for me. Will test again today and see if its still working.