Aluminium profile CNC

Hi Brice0
Could you post a link to Chai's store.
Regards
Mike

Here is the actual design
Attachment 23256

But I will add pulleys as you recommend, I could probably keep the same length to add pulley?
I was thinking to add something similar to the design of JoeHarris:
Attachment 23255

Hi mekanik, here is the link of Chai Store: www.ebay.fr/usr/linearmotionbearings2008

Does anyone has any experience with these HTD pulley? http://www.beltingonline.com/14-toot...14-5m-15f-7771
I think to use them for all axis, ratio 1:1.

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Originally Posted by BriceO

Does anyone has any experience with these HTD pulley? http://www.beltingonline.com/14-toot...14-5m-15f-7771
I think to use them for all axis, ratio 1:1.

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Ive used Belting Online before for a number of pulleys and always been happy with the product and shipping times.

Yep, used them a lot, good quality, no issues.

Thanks for your feedback!

Not read the whole thread but your initial design is incredibly similar to how I just built my router and I can say from experience don't fit the rails on the gantry that way! You lose too much travel.

I lost almost 28cm of Y travel because of how I built the Z axis at some point I will rebuild it so I only lose 15cm but luckily I built it oversized so I still 1.2m*0.7m which is enough to do what I want for now.

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Originally Posted by Desertboy

Not read the whole thread but your initial design is incredibly similar to how I just built my router and I can say from experience don't fit the rails on the gantry that way! You lose too much travel.

I lost almost 28cm of Y travel because of how I built the Z axis at some point I will rebuild it so I only lose 15cm but luckily I built it oversized so I still 1.2m*0.7m which is enough to do what I want for now.

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Hi Desertboy, thanks for your observation. Could you explain a bit more? Maybe you have a picture of it? I can't see where could the problem be.

Do you completely redesigning your machine?

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Originally Posted by BriceO

Hi Desertboy, thanks for your observation. Could you explain a bit more? Maybe you have a picture of it? I can't see where could the problem be.

Do you completely redesigning your machine?

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Only the Z axis. I found a photo not a great shot I'll get you a better one later but you can see how much travel I lose mounting the Hiwin's forward facing on the gantry.

Attachment 23429

What I'm going to do at some point is remove the centre piece of extrusion on my gantry, strengthen the other 2 pieces up and mount the hiwin on top/bottom of them and sling the ballscrew between the 2 extrusions.

Attachment 23432

Attachment doesn't open for me ?

Me neither ;)

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Originally Posted by Nr1madman

Me neither ;)

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Attachment 23437
try again ;)

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Originally Posted by Nr1madman

Me neither ;)

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Attachment 23437
try again ;)

Now I totally understand what you ment about loosing travel ;)

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Thanks for the photo. Mine is similar as you said (I will post upgrade soon), but the X ballscrew is on top of the axis.
I plan to use 1605 screw for the Z axis with a 2.2kw spindle. The distance between X rails and spindle will be ~23cm.
I think, with this configuration, it will have more leverage. Is it right?

I will try to put X rails on top and bottom. Thanks for the advice ;)

Is it a good idea to replace the light 40x120 profile with
a heavy 40x160 or heavy 80x160? Z clearance will be around 150mm (5.9"). This way there will have only one plate on top of the bearing blocks to support the X axis.

Looks much better ;)

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I just find time to update my design and change several thing. I hope I take into account every advice.
If you see anything wrong please let me know. Thanks.

Attachment 23728
Attachment 23729
Attachment 23730

my ballscrew isn't very straight. Could it be a problem when everything's bolted down?
Is it a correct way to adjust the space between ballscrew and plate?
Attachment 23755

Thanks

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Originally Posted by BriceO

my ballscrew isn't very straight. Could it be a problem when everything's bolted down?
Is it a correct way to adjust the space between ballscrew and plate?
Attachment 23755

Thanks

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Yes, in English it is called shimming you could use tin foil or you can buy shim of various thickness

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BriceO

I just find time to update my design and change several thing. I hope I take into account every advice.
If you see anything wrong please let me know. Thanks.

Attachment 23728
Attachment 23729
Attachment 23730

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Ok well straight away I see Chicken and Egg problem.! How do you access the linear bearing bolts under the gantry.? If fasten the plate to bearings first then how do you bolt profile to the plate.? Also how do access bearing bolts when squaring setting up etc.?

A much better way is to have 2 plates. One that fastens to the linear bearings which also incorporates the X-axis ball nut mounting plate. Then another bolted to the gantry which then bolts into the bearing plate.
This method makes it a lot easier to setup and square the gantry etc. Also can remove the gantry in one piece if ever need to move the machine and not loose setup.

These pictures show what I mean although it's set up for R&P.

Attachment 23762Attachment 23761

Great post Jazz - there are some things we miss out on in our original designs like how to mount the stepper motor cable chain? or how to adjust the spindle position for tramming? - both mistakes I made in my design and build!

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Yes, in English it is called shimming you could use tin foil or you can buy shim of various thickness

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Nice, I will take a look at it.

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Ok well straight away I see Chicken and Egg problem.! How do you access the linear bearing bolts under the gantry.? If fasten the plate to bearings first then how do you bolt profile to the plate.? Also how do access bearing bolts when squaring setting up etc.?

A much better way is to have 2 plates. One that fastens to the linear bearings which also incorporates the X-axis ball nut mounting plate. Then another bolted to the gantry which then bolts into the bearing plate.
This method makes it a lot easier to setup and square the gantry etc. Also can remove the gantry in one piece if ever need to move the machine and not loose setup.

These pictures show what I mean although it's set up for R&P.

Attachment 23762Attachment 23761

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I didn't see that to be honest. Good point, I'll add a plate, thanks you JAZZ :)

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Great post Jazz - there are some things we miss out on in our original designs like how to mount the stepper motor cable chain? or how to adjust the spindle position for tramming? - both mistakes I made in my design and build!

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I'll add it too, thanks :)

I would like to have your opinion guys. I'm want to be sure to understand this: What's the difference between having high side plate like my first design and the newest one? In my point of view, the sideways movement are less important if you have short side plate. Will it be stiffer? And will vibration be a problem ?

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Originally Posted by BriceO

I would like to have your opinion guys. I'm want to be sure to understand this: What's the difference between having high side plate like my first design and the newest one? In my point of view, the sideways movement are less important if you have short side plate. Will it be stiffer? And will vibration be a problem ?

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It's late here in UK and I can't be messing around looking back thru 60+ posts to see your design so I'll answer this using my experience of building all types.

Sitting The gantry directly on the bearings using high sides does give much stiffer machine. This leads to less vibration at the tool giving better surface finishes and less tool wear.
However, this is only really needed if cutting mostly harder material like Aluminium/Brass or very hardwoods. If just cutting a general mixture of all materials but mostly woods then gantry with side plates isn't a problem provided the gantry is strong and the plates of suitable thickness and securely braced to bearings.
There are advantages to the machine using gantry sides if mostly used for wood or sheet materials because of easier material loading and access etc.

I have built machines which use both types and in real-world use, both will cut aluminum fine. However, the High side machines can be run little more aggressive in harder materials due to being that little bit stiffer.
You have to decide whats more important to you, higher Stiffness or better accessibility and little easier to build.

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

It's late here in UK and I can't be messing around looking back thru 60+ posts to see your design so I'll answer this using my experience of building all types.

Sitting The gantry directly on the bearings using high sides does give much stiffer machine. This leads to less vibration at the tool giving better surface finishes and less tool wear.
However, this is only really needed if cutting mostly harder material like Aluminium/Brass or very hardwoods. If just cutting a general mixture of all materials but mostly woods then gantry with side plates isn't a problem provided the gantry is strong and the plates of suitable thickness and securely braced to bearings.
There are advantages to the machine using gantry sides if mostly used for wood or sheet materials because of easier material loading and access etc.

I have built machines which use both types and in real-world use, both will cut aluminum fine. However, the High side machines can be run little more aggressive in harder materials due to being that little bit stiffer.
You have to decide whats more important to you, higher Stiffness or better accessibility and little easier to build.

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I will go for the gantry with side plates so, it will certainly be cheaper too, thanks a lot. I'm working on my design and I'm thinking about adding a 40x120 extrusion under the gantry as you do. In my case will it add some benefits from your point of view?

Update on the design.

I try to add a profile on the bottom of the X axis. Now, I have to move the gantry a 40mm higher. The Z clearance will 170mm maximum.

I have some work to do with the Z,Y axis.

There is many good ideas in your design JAZZ, I steal some of them. Is it possible? :-)

Attachment 23887

Attachment 23888

[QUOTE=BriceO;100624]There is many good ideas in your design JAZZ, I steal some of them. Is it possible? :-)

No problem take what ever you like and if want to know anything just ask.

Hi,

Some update of the design. I've lower the extrusion side, add an extrusion on the bottom of the x axis, moto mount and the side plates.
As usual if anything seems to be wrong don't hesitate to comment :)
Attachment 23921
The ballscrew of the X axis is now higher to screw it directyl to the bearing plate. Thanks Jazz!
I don't add it but the cable chain will be on top of the 120X40 extrusion.
Attachment 23923
Attachment 23926
The Y axis motor mount plate:
Attachment 23924
To mount the ballscrew, I will use a separate plate. I think it will be easier to adjust if necessary.
Attachment 23925

Attachment 23927


If you see anything, please let me know :) Thanks

Is there a standard way to fix two pieces of extrusion?

I search on the forum and found this:
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/4513-...2346#post72346

maybe another idea?

Hi BriceO

Did you ever solve your problem? In this link this is how I solved the problem by drilling a hole through the extrusion so that I could tighten the bolts in the clips. It is very solid and has not moved in 2 years!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MikeyC38

Hi BriceO

Did you ever solve your problem? In this link this is how I solved the problem by drilling a hole through the extrusion so that I could tighten the bolts in the clips. It is very solid and has not moved in 2 years!

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Hi Mikey,

Yes thanks. I did something very similar. I'll post updates as soon as I find time to finish it.