...but that is really difficult to find. Of course, it could be done with 2 or even 4 individual switches also.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeagleBrainz
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...but that is really difficult to find. Of course, it could be done with 2 or even 4 individual switches also.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeagleBrainz
It is getting difficult to help because I don't know your background and don't have a clue about your wiring or who did the original work, but I'll make a new effort.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabi68
1. If you are sure you NEVER will use the enable signal then you don't have to care about that, so just ignore as it is ignored in your picture.
2. Check PUL - and DIR - with a DMM, I think those are connected to the same source, so basically you could have only the blue wire connected and from that bridge to PUL -.
3. In theory, if both your controlling devices share a common signal ground then you don't need to switch that signal, but it is a good engineering practice to do it, so I would definitely switch that also.
4. This leaves you with three signals to switch and these are the same as PUL + , DIR + and DIR -. Remember that DIR - is bridged to PUL - otherwise it will not work.
In the end, according to the above, you will need a relay which can switch three signals, but you won't find such relay. They are always made as 1, 2 or 4 (or more) pole relays.
I wouldn't assume -DIR or -STEP are connected to ground, the output circuit could be a NPN transistor (open collector). So the safest bet would be to put each (for lack of better description signal) on a separate pole.
Maybe the output circuit of one of the boards can recognize an open circuit, on either the STEP or DIR causing a fault condition.
The user has provided no circuit diagrams so it is really hard to say which way to jump.
It would be the same as asking a programmer to design a routine to process a data packet without actually telling them anything about the format of the data packet.
If you'd looked at the relevant photo, you would see the Enable on the driver has nothing connected to it, plus there is also the post stating he doesn't want the axis to become disabled to avoid the axis dropping, so connecting the enable is not needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by A_Camera
Not on the existing step source, as again, the photo shows differential outputs.Quote:
GND is the same as STEP - , DIR - and EN -. It is better to connect those to the same - output as the one providing the control signals. Again, it would do no harm and we know too little about his design and implementation.
However I did think about this earlier, as the alternative controller may not have differential outputs, so some thought may be needed in that regard.
All relays, apart from specialist relays have minimum switching currents. It is not something that only applies to contactors.Quote:
That's why I said that a small signal relay needs to be used, not a contactor. You talk about a contactor which is designed for high voltage and current.
Good relay manufacturer's will publish the relevant detail in the datasheet.
Well, taking your advices I have a relay with appropriate socket on the way
https://www.rapidonline.com/Relpol-R...-Relay-61-6063
and I will connect Pul-, Pul+,Dir- and Dir+ and power the relay from a 12V power supply.
I also bought this fancy button
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .
The last advice need it is where should I connect the button to make the change of the inputs?
Thank you
Gabi
Yes, that's the key issue. We are all only guessing. I provided my solution, but yes, other solutions might be needed, we have no idea since we don't have enough information about his design. I was however very clear that the solution I proposed is what I use and it works for me, and I bet you that I could make it work with his driver also.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeagleBrainz
There are two documented possible ways of connecting the driver, in one case you bridge all the + to the same and switch all the - signals, the other way is what I am using, which is I think the most commonly used. Basically there is very little difference between them (I know that electrically the difference is huge), and both uses the same principle, but without knowing all the details of his solution it is impossible the say which is right and which is wrong.
Attachment 30722
That relay will work just fine, I don't think you will have problems with it. If you switch all four wires then you don't need to care about anything else, just that you connect all the wires right. Good luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabi68
Yes, that's the key issue. We are all only guessing. I provided my solution, but yes, other solutions might be needed, we have no idea since we don't have enough information about his design. I was however very clear that the solution I proposed is what I use and it works for me, and I bet you that I could make it work with his driver also.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeagleBrainz
There are two documented possible ways of connecting the driver, in one case you bridge all the + to the same and switch all the - signals, the other way is what I am using, which is I think the most commonly used. Basically there is very little difference between them (I know that electrically the difference is huge), and both uses the same principle, but without knowing all the details of his solution it is impossible the say which is right and which is wrong.
Attachment 30722
How should I connect the button, please?Quote:
Originally Posted by A_Camera
Use my simple diagram above. The only thing you have to be careful of is polarity. The relay you selected has a built in diode, so the coil has a + and a - terminal. You connect - to your 12VDC - and switch to the plus terminal (this is the most common way of switching). When you push the button the relay should release or pull, depending on how you wired (NO or NC). I didn't look at your fancy button, so I have no idea if it is a single pole, or dual pole switch, or if it has both NO and NC contacts or not.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabi68
To be honest, I agree with the previous poster that you seem to be in a need of elementary electrical knowledge, because your questions regarding the relay and how to wire are really very basic. Try to read some basic information sheets because you will need it. You will also need a simple DMM and some basic electrical measurement knowledge. That is a minimum when you start wiring things. Whatever you do, DON'T TOUCH THE MAINS SIDE. Making mistakes on the low voltage DC side might burn some parts and generate some blue smoke, but making mistakes on the mains side might kill you. I don't think you have the knowledge to touch the mains side. I am not saying this to sound rude, but I think if you plan on doing any electrical modifications then your knowledge level must be increased to at least basic level of understanding electrical circuits and switching. You will need that knowledge constantly if you intend to make changes or trying to find and fix faults.
I was going to do this in F360 to test the schematic section, but the default component choice is limited, so here's a quick doodle -
Attachment 30723
I've marked the resistor, but I'm assuming as the switch is listed as 12V, it already has an internal resistor for the LED part, so it shouldn't be needed, but without seeing the datasheet, I'd add it just in case.
One bit of information that's not clear, is what kind of step/dir output is your alternative source outputting?
Hi,
I know very little about electronics. I am a software programmer with a many skipped electronic courses. I always was like this, when I don't know something start asking many and stupid questions and also start reading. I will always try to stay away from mains.
After reading and try to educate myself I understand now you connect the switch on the hot side (+) of the relay. I also read about how to connect my "fancy" button. Long story short I came up with this crude diagram. Have a look and tell me if this will work, please.
Many thanks
Gabi
Attachment 30724
That looks fine for the switch/relay side wiring.
On the relay side I will have Pul-, Pul+, Dir- and Dir+ from the stepper drive on the NO and Pul-, Pul+, Dir- and Dir on the NC for the measuring device. The only thing which is not very clear is if I need to supply 24V from the stepper drive to the measuring device or that needs to be wired separately from the power supply (the same one which supply the stepper driver). Please have a look and comment.Quote:
Originally Posted by m_c
Ok what you need to do is the following.
Approach whoever it was that gave you this task and explain to them that you are way over your head. Also that you have attempted to obtain some advice your lack of knowledge does not put you in position to assess the advice.
Now there is no shame in this. One of the controllers mentioned is worth a couple of grand. I do not want you to be responsible for messing things up if you make a mistake. We all do.
The best and safest solution is to get an electrician in, this is not electronics any capable electrician will be able to perform the wiring. Yes it may cost some currency, but is the wisest way to progress. I fear the actual wiring of the relay contacts to the various signal sources may prove to be overwhelming for yourself.
So it’s time to fess up, be honest and get some actual on site help. Sometimes that is just the way it is.
I honestly think this is the wrong project for you to begin on. Others may disagree and you are quite welcome to disregard my advice.
All in all I wish you the best of luck. Last of all if you do this yourself work slowly and check for correct operation as you go. It is easier to deal with one mistake at a time.
This a personal project (it is my fiber laser) and I will do this by myself. I will put some led's with the appropriate resistor (for load) and try the circuit before commit and install everything on the laser. Nothing on the last question...Quote:
Originally Posted by BeagleBrainz
Thank you for your advices so far.
Exactly. ...and if I knew about his ignorant attitude I wouldn't have wasted my time on him. Being proud about skipping classes is the ultimate proof of stupidity. I'd be ashamed of asking to be spoon fed if I had the chance of learning and gaining knowledge and had the mental ability to read and understand. It's a different thing compared to someone who has learning disabilities but fights and tries to understand things.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeagleBrainz
You don't know nothing about me. Writing this kind of messages only prove your stupidity and this came with the normal package of arrogance. I skipped courses because I need to work to support myself in Uni. Asking questions is normal. Receiving this kind of responses is NOT. I was thinking the reason of this forums is to help and learn from each other. I was wrong. People like you makes this forums bad. Big muscle and mouth over internet are not good. If you have something constructive to say, say it, otherwise shut up.Quote:
Originally Posted by A_Camera
This is the attitude that proves the previous post.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabi68
How did you manage to wire your project with so little knowledge ?
Did you wire the mains yourself ?
Have you taken precautions to ensure there is proper grounding for the mains ?
Have you taken steps to have the mains side checked ?
It is not just you that are at risk if the wiring is not done correctly.
Mains electricity is not something to be blase about.
Yes one may ask questions, but one must also be prepared for answers and additional comments they don’t like.
Is not much of a project. I bought this fiber laser (I also have a CO2 laser and CNC router) and quite quickly realized that I need to find a way to automate the focus problem (which appear mostly when you change the lenses - every lens has a different focus - distance between part to be engraved and lens). After I found a device which do that (has a sensor for measuring distance) I realized I need to find a way to use the original software (which requires a homing procedure at start up) and the new device. I was told I cant use both and initially I was thinking to use 2 stepper drivers with the same motor. I took the advice give by some members (more experienced than me) to use the same driver with the same motor with a 4 pole relay (never worked with relays). All I need to do is hook up a relay with a 12V power supply (which is already there). Simple, but what kind of relay. I was asking that because I was thinking to make a PCB for all of this. With the relay and step/dir on the same board. That was my project. Nothing related with mains. I have some experience with electric and electronic devices, but all is at newbie level. I build a CNC controller and run into trouble with spindle and VFD noise. Dean (Jazz) was kind and helped me to understand the importance of star connection. All is working now, safely for over 2 years.
I asked some stupid questions, I know that, but to receive this kind of answer is harsh and I learn my lessons, not to ask anymore.
When the relay will show up I will connect everything with some led's first ofr proof and after that everything will be moved inside the fiber enclosure.
Thank you for your help
Actually, you just proved my point. Even if you had to work, nothing prevents you from reading first BEFORE asking very basic questions. I helped you out all the way... and you call me stupid. I didn't skip classes and read the books. I have also programmed professionally during many years and even designed and developed both hardware, firmware AND software during the years, and believe it or not, I even have several inventions with my name on them... but I am the stupid... :thumsup: I actually like to help, but only those who are willing to learn and are not ignorant. Being proud of avoiding books is in my opinion ignorance. The arrogance is your attitude towards the criticism you received and the way you reacted to that criticism.Quote:
Originally Posted by gabi68
You did not understand nothing. I did not call you stupid. You stated that about me, first. There is a word The clever give up first, so I will do just that. Take care.Quote:
Originally Posted by A_Camera
Quote:
Quote Originally Posted by gabi68 View Post
You don't know nothing about me. Writing this kind of messages only prove your stupidity blah blah blah
Obviously you still managed to get to the "Mental Gymnastics" and the "Advanced Double Negative" classes yet still missed "Remedial Plurals".Quote:
You did not understand nothing. I did not call you stupid. You stated that about me, first. There is a word The clever give up first, so I will do just that. Take care.
(Insert Preferred Pronoun here) gabi68 I insist you apologise.
It is not necessary to apologize. It would be pointless since he doesn't really understands his own words. To be honest, I think he is abusing the flag, his English is worse than mine and I don't think he is a British subject. At least not originally. Anyway, there is really not much to be said here.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeagleBrainz
Ah well I'll just sit back and wait for his next dummy spit.