PU does come in handy, but a proper instant gasket is what will be needed.
I'm not sure what you can get aftermarket that isn't just overpriced black silicon, hence my suggestion of either the Ford or VX stuff.
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PU does come in handy, but a proper instant gasket is what will be needed.
I'm not sure what you can get aftermarket that isn't just overpriced black silicon, hence my suggestion of either the Ford or VX stuff.
So, I will have all my CNC stuff my this Week.
Only problem is, due to this motorbike mess, I have no money for the frame!
And I'm going on holiday next week so no building for atleast 3-4 weeks! :(
Threebond 1194 is what you want. It's the replacement of the product that used to be sold as yamabond/suzukibond (has no lead in it now). Comes in a tube for about £22, apply it with a small brush so it goes on thin. Before you join the cases make sure there are no raised edges from prybar bodgery to hold the case halves apart, as air leaks spell death for 2-strokes.
The powervalve isn't essential to the running of the bike, in fact some bikes were sold with the valve present but no actuator - the valve was fixed in a pre-set location (the TZR125 was not sold with the actuator as a uk bike in fact). If your piston was damaged then that would be the cause of the very poor power at low revs, the valve just alters the port timing to provide increased drivability down low and high throughput at revs. If you had no valve, you would suffer from poor low down response but not to the level you are describing. Bottom line is - you don't need one for getting about.
Thank you, there is 100grams for £10 on the fleabay so will have to buy that!Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter.
So, Not really an update but finally got my electronics sorted :D
Attachment 4330
and I think I hit my Aim of it being cheap-ish.
all of it for just under £180 quid, still £170 too much though!! :heehee:
My other bits should be here Friday :D
Has finally got all my stuff!
Attachment 4335
Why do i have to go on holiday now!!
I also picked up some 1104 three bond instead of the 1194,
1194 is safer to use as it doesn't use Lead. but i thought, I ride a 2t, I'll live on the edge for a bit :P
Now, all I need is some electrical wire, a Crap load of Aluminium and I'll be done.
I really need some spindle mounts, Nema 23 Mounts and Ball screw mounts though......
Sounds like a job for me :whistling: Have you seen the ones of all those I've posted recently?Quote:
Originally Posted by jcb121
jess
only one ball screw on your x-axis??
James
yes, I have a sliding Bed design so I only need one, not only that, but the entire cnc will be more rigid and make things better,
Jess.
A sliding bed does not mean you only need one ballscrew to drive it. When the cutter is at either limit of the Y-axis travel and cutting parallel to the X-axis the cutting force will create a significant torque on the bed causing it to deflect. How much it deflects depends on the spacing of the bearings supporting the bed, the distance between them and of course the cutting force. Two ballscrews completely eliminates this problem. It's like trying to go round a corner fast in a Reliant Robin...it does work but not as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by jcb121
I'm ordering a cheap mouse and a Serial cable today.
what sort of cables do I need for hooking up the breakout board, PSU and Drivers etc?
Mice are handy, but what's the serial cable for? Did you mean parallel?Quote:
Originally Posted by jcb121
For the PSU to driver you'll want something that'll conduct the required current without a big voltage drop. Probably 1.5mm^2. Some people use shielded...I don't think it's required in most cases.Quote:
Originally Posted by jcb121
For the breakout board to drivers standard 7/0.2 wire is fine (or anything you have lying around) as it's only a signal.
Drivers to steppers generally CY 4-core (which is shielded), 1.5mm^2. You need minimum 1mm^2 from the VFD to spindle, so the same as you use for the steppers will be fine.
maplins it is then.
parallel, yes I did mean that!
Thanks.
Noooooooooooooooo.... they charge silly money and probably wont have the cable for steppers anyway. eBay/Rapid electronics/Farnell is your friend. I've got plenty of 7/0.2 wire (all the colours) and possibly the rest depending on how much you need?Quote:
Originally Posted by jcb121
Thanks John, I may just take you up on that!
Shouldn't need too much. I was just thinking about testing my electronic bits as I'm not even sure they work! I hope they do....
when putting them in the machine I'll order the cables.
Jess
How are you and how is that build going
I know you've had your problems but thats no excuse for no input or even saying hello
James
good timing on this post as I actually have an update!
I went to FromStock today and picked up a fair bit of ALU for my machine. all cut to size.
I'll get a pic of it when i find a camera.
I have enough to make my spindle mounts, and my gantry, the only alu i need now is some 50x10 and 50x20 for the frame.
Attachment 4538
this is my fair bit of Alu, that's a 50cm ruler next to it and I got it for a stupid price.
it would be unfair to tell you the price due to pure jealousy, but you can guess at it :)
it's all 12mm thick also.
I will be drilling some holes later, but I need an engineers square to be really accurate.
Attachment 4539Attachment 4540
So if the ruler was a stupid price how much was the aluminium? Looks like about £31 worth to me...so I guess a stupid price would be £20.Quote:
Originally Posted by jcb121
You seem to have laid it out with the Z-axis rails mounted to the Y-axis slide, not the other way round. Was that just for the photo? Putting the rails on the Z-axis so they move up and down and the bearing blocks are fixed is stronger.
the ruler was £1.29, £20 is bang on.
I'll give it ago with the rails the other way around, it's just I thought the extra weight would be a problem.
Jon, your awesome.
that's two birds with one stone right there.
the piece of alu I bought for the gantry was too thin by a few MM, mounting it the other way means it can work.
Jess
Have you made your frame yet??
I like the ruler
£20.00 is a good price did you just name your price or give him the twenty and run lol??
well done where or who is going to cut your aluminium ??
James
My 6"x1/2" was £48.00 for 2 meters
and 12x3/4 was 143.00 for 2 meters
ha! well I haven't actually paid yet... so I named my price then ran!!
The Alu is pretty much all to size, The only parts that need cutting are the two small bits that are the spindle holder.
If i do need to cut some of the Alu, I can take it back to the metal shop and they will cut it for me for free.
I don't have a frame yet, I'll be going back to the shop to get some alu for it or getting it from aluwharehouse.
I might take some of the Alu into college with me today and drill it out on their Mill. just to make sure it's nice and accurate.
So, After an Hour or two of wiring everything up, It comes to defcon one.
I get my Old pc from the Man shed, install the windows drivers and Mach3.
Clean my desk (move everything from my desk onto my bed)
Hook up the power and then.......
I go to plug in the Parallel cable and it's a Male instead of a Female connector!!
:redface: I never thought to check what type of parallel cable I needed :sad:
Ouch. Yeah I've had the same problem with serial cables in the past. You can pick up genderbenders fairly cheaply but to be honest, might just be easier to buy a new cable.
So, I've ordered a Gender bender for my cable so I should be able to test all the electronics.
I've got some Micro switches from an arcade cabinet I made ages ago, so I'm going to try and make some limit switches also.
my thought are, how am I going to make everything accurate enough by hand? I have recently bought a square ( something my college amazingly lacked) and I plan to mill the ends of me metal by hand so they are perfectly square,
but are there any tips for getting everything bang on?
The tools i have to get this together are a square, small drill press, auto punch and a rule so getting this thing together will be my biggest challenge.
Pictures!
Attachment 4581Attachment 4582Attachment 4583Attachment 4584Attachment 4585Attachment 4586Attachment 4587Attachment 4588Attachment 4589Attachment 4591Attachment 4590
I've milled most of the big blocks of alu in college so the edges are straight.
Just need to start mounting everything and it will soon be done :D
The Mill in college is complete crap, there is a MM of backlash on the X axis! really screws up my work :(
The Y is ok though.
Some of I2I's masterclass machining above.
Looks like a good start :)
1mm of backlash is mildly annoying, but it really doesn't affect the results when using manual milling machine. Unless of course you're not compensating for it / locking the slides if necessary?Quote:
Originally Posted by jcb121
Looking good.
Only a poor workman blames their tools ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by jcb121
Every one of my manual machines has play, it's just a case of learning how to deal with it!
you can lock the slides? D:
annoying when you are on your 3rd attempt of work and the line you are doing suddenly turns into a nobly line.
m_c ... looks like we're of the same mind - our last posts are virtually identical!
My mill has about 0.45mm backlash on X and 0.3mm on Y and it's no problem when using the machine manually. You just make sure to if it's a bigish cut lock the slide that your not moving, and when you move that slide to the required position compensate for the backlash by approaching the point in the same direction. You will also generally want to use conventional, not climb, milling.
Look for some thumbscrews that apply pressure to the gib strips to lock it. Don't move the other screws on the gib strips ...Quote:
Originally Posted by jcb121
Also ramp milling is essential when dealing with large amounts of backlash.
Attachment 4633
now just another two to do! fun times.
I had to borrow a tap holder from school,
I2I, the tap holder I had wouldn't even tighten on an M6 tap!
So, mounted my rails on my bit of alu, also mounted the screw as well
Attachment 4635Attachment 4636Attachment 4637
the ballscrew isn't perfectly central, off by 3mm or so.
but it's going pretty well.
Holy Batman what's this? an epic thread Resurrection?
Yes, I abandoned all hope of making a CNC machine myself. My equipment just isn't accurate enough for my perfectionism.
So, I've dropped in the big guns.
The frame of my CNC is being Water cut, I have just paid for it, so it should be coming X-mas time.
I think if it comes X-mas eve I may wrap it up and give it to myself as:
1. I'm not getting many presents this year
2. See above,
So hopefully there will be an update here soon! and a proper one, Not like this.
Merry Xmas all.
good because I was going to send you a email:tongue: asking to buy it off you cheap:rofl:
Have a good Christmas
James
Ok, Finally got my stuff from the water Cutters and it's PERFECT!!
http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/...C/IMG_0126.jpg
http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/...C/IMG_0128.jpg
http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/...C/IMG_0129.jpg
http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/...C/IMG_0135.jpg
http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/...C/IMG_0143.jpg
The frame is just resting together ATM, need to get two M6 nuts and mount the rails properly. The ball Screws should be in there tomorrow and the electronic sorted out over the weekend.
From a pile of metal to the photos above took about 30 minutes! so nice and quick :D
The company that did the water cutting was called Yorkshire Profiles.
Yes jess
that looks really nice mate I wish you good progress for the weekend I'm looking forward to seeing it finished
James
Well done. Good to see it coming together and best of luck with the rest of it.
Michael.
Ok, So i've mounted most of the bits, all I'm missing now are the stepper holders and the spindle mounts.
Also, What kind of wiring do I need? This will be used for my Steppers, Spindle to VFD, and generally all the wiring.
Thanks, Pics soon.