Hi LeeQuote:
Originally Posted by Lee Roberts
If you look at the second to last pic you will see I solved it by milling counterbores into the rack, I was going to put button heads in it but decided to counter bore instead
Steve
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Hi LeeQuote:
Originally Posted by Lee Roberts
If you look at the second to last pic you will see I solved it by milling counterbores into the rack, I was going to put button heads in it but decided to counter bore instead
Steve
AMEN! to the Counterbores, i got that one you showed me on the bay cant waiti to try it out!
Had some more spare time today so I hacked a torch mount out of a chunk of solid Aluminium, It made me realise that I will have to make a 300mm dropper plate, any how heres the pics
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...m/DSCF0691.jpg
and just to show the torch fits I tried that in as well
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...m/DSCF0690.jpg
Hi steve, looking good mate !
Yea all the machines i'v looked at have got a plate that your talking about for the spindle mount to then fix to. Looks nice tho mate nice one, i managed to get a some more done on my rockcliff tonight will post up the bits later.
Them flanged bronze (?) drive nuts you have used, where did you get them from? also did you say they are just droped in once the ali block has been heated up ?
Hi LeeQuote:
Originally Posted by Lee Roberts
Im starting to get real fed up with tapping holes though, that seems to take for ever by hand, I could use the drill but I dont like doing that.
not quite.... I bought the wrong nut from Merchant Dice, I machined it down to 20mm od and cut the top hat part off so it was just a round bit about 25mm long with a thread down the middle, then I bored the ali block on the miller to fit........nearly
have got a piece of ally on its way from ebay 100mm wide, 10mm thick and 300mm long, £10 not bad.
need 2 more steppers but they will have to wait a week or so, "ER" is starting to moan
Send me a link to your rockcliff please,
Steve
Hi All
decision made!! There is no going back now "Z" finished apart from a small second floating "Z" to get hight, I have drilled and tapped botom of "Dropper" plate to take a tool holder so I can use table as a router as well by sliding second "Z" up and bolting tool holder on.
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...m/DSCF0698.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...m/DSCF0699.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...m/DSCF0700.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...m/DSCF0701.jpg
Steve
Just a quick update, finished floating "Z" ready for THC, Luckily Jim Cullins from soundlogicus.com will still ship one to England along with a breakout board from Rob Cambell will make a good combination, I hope.
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...m/DSCF0714.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t...m/DSCF0716.jpg
Looking good mate !
A floating z axis, so you're going to use the 3 ball arrangement to set the torch height. It does sound heaps easier than faffing about measuring the volts. This could be up and running PDQ.
Looking good. We'll need a movie when you get it cutting :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt
Hi Robin
actualy no Im not going down that balls route, the idea is to put a limit switch on floating "Z" and use as a ref, bring "Z" down torch will touch metal and lift floating "Z" into ref switch, and stop then lift "Z" by a known amount (switch travel + clearance of tip) and fire, this way every start will be automaticly set to differing thicknesses of material, as the distance of lift will be a constant. well thats the plan, Mach3 has this ability
Steve