It's great when a problem is solved, say "hi" to Peppa Pig for me
Printable View
It's great when a problem is solved, say "hi" to Peppa Pig for me
Oink! Oink!
Some teething problems I think, seems to be Z axis...?
I'm using Cambam but only really want to draw on the MDF bed of the machine at this stage. I've defined my stock as 5mm thick but the arcs lines etc are set to profile to only -1mm in the cambam dialogue. The G Code for the test is below, the machine homes just fine. when I Jog the machine I see Z- going in the direction of the bed. So I get a post-it and manually jog the Z until it bites the paper and then back it off say 0.650 mm and then set Z to 0 in mach. The theory being that the -1mm "cut depth" will push the biro into the mdf bed.
However when the program runs the pen seems to move up not the 1mm down I want it to go. I did some googling and changed the Z motor direction in Mach and that didnt feel at all right, homing went backwards (expected really). So my question, should I have selected a + z move (cut depth) in Cambam or is there a clue in the G Code below that the machine is set up wrong? Advice as always welcome. Thanks.
( Made using CamBam - http://www.cambam.co.uk )
( CNC_Template 9/3/2014 10:17:13 PM )
( T6 : 6.0 )
( CUTVIEWER )
( FROM/0,0,5 )
( Select dummy tool to avoid warnings )
( TOOL/MILL,1,0,20.0,0 )
( STOCK/BLOCK,500.0,500.0,5.0,0.0,0.0,5.0 )
G21 G90 G91.1 G64 G40
G0 Z3.0
( T6 : 6.0 )
( Tool Taper coming soon )
( TOOL/MILL,6.0,0.0,0.0,0 )
T6 M6
( Profile1 )
G17
M3 S1000
G0 X207.0 Y120.0
G0 Z0.2
G1 F300.0 Z0.0
G2 F1500.0 X196.5 Y113.9378 Z-0.1667 I-7.0 J0.0
G2 Y126.0622 Z-0.3333 I3.5 J6.0622
G2 X207.0 Y120.0 Z-0.5 I3.5 J-6.0622
G2 X196.5 Y113.9378 Z-0.6667 I-7.0 J0.0
G2 Y126.0622 Z-0.8333 I3.5 J6.0622
G2 X207.0 Y120.0 Z-1.0 I3.5 J-6.0622
G2 X196.5 Y113.9378 I-7.0 J0.0
G2 Y126.0622 I3.5 J6.0622
G2 X207.0 Y120.0 I3.5 J-6.0622
It is more common to set the home for Z at the top, that means all cuts will be -Z. So when you zero your Z at the bed a command to cut would be a -Z move.
You can tell Mach to home in any direction. ..Clive
Dont know if this will double post? Thats how its set up Clive. the code looks ok to me too I think, start of Z3 as a positioning move, moves down to Z0.2 still just above bed and then gets to Z-1.0 4th line up from the bottom. so why is the spindle not actually going down but going up?
The Z as Clive said should be 0 at the Top and go down with negative sign.
Do you recalculate the toolpath? When set working Z0 i mean.
Ok Zero at the middle of the air. Then in the mdi window write Z-1 and hit enter. It should go down from there 1mm/ becarefull if in inch cause will go 1 inch down :loyal:/
Thanks chaps. I did the MDI -1 and it does come down 1 mm.
Maybe I'll start again with cambam and see if that helps.
Try it using the Mach3-CutViewer post processor as you are, then try it with just the Mach3 post processor, see if there's a difference.
Thanks Eddy, I did change the post processor and reset Cambam to start from scratch. I think its the stock to cut relative to the Z that had me confused.
I created two tests. For the first I created a simple shape in Cambam than had a depth of 5mm relative to 0 and marked the Z axis depth on a post-it note. I stopped the program when it was at depth and although I didnt measure it accurately I'm OK that it ran a clearance height plus Z and ended up around -5. The camera work on the first video is pretty awful, makes you realise that those who do youtube videos well put some work into it :) should be at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngDW4964BR4
For the second test I tried manually adjusting the Z and ran the program, It using a hacked Biro and the ink tube slips a little as well as bing not the smoothest line. I found that around 1.05 into the video the pen caught for a few secs, I think its down to replacing the cut down biro with a felt tip now. This video is still not great but has the virtue that I'm not really trying to do too many close-ups. http://youtu.be/iah4JGcsFbI
For those on thier journey to making a machine, I can say it is very satifying when it starts to move and it does kind of sing a bit during arcs. More videos and stuff in a few weeks when I get another chance to play.
And for my next problem.. :)
I'm getting comforatble jogging the machine around now, I'm about to use it to drill some holes through the MDF bed and into the Steel base structure prior to tapping the steel and using a Forstner bit on the MDF to counterbore it so I can firmly fix the bed prior to checking the gantry for good geometry, surfacing etc and.. I cant seem to get the VFD (& Spindle) running and have Mach communicate with the PLCM control board. Interesting enough I did have issues a few weeks ago where I would lose comms to the control cabinet whenever I closed the control box, which was most weird and I bypassed the problem by removing the USB chassis mount and just running the USB cable direct from the PC to the control board through a hole in the box. This all leads me to suspect earthing as a culrpit? Any ideas how I would trace the issue, sorry its a bit vauge, I can post pictures and update the electrical schematic if that would help. Any advice, as always, much appreciated. Thanks.
Ok well first why are you using USB when the PLCM is capable of using Ethernet.? Ethernet is much much better at handling noise than USB.
Need some idea or pics of how you have wiring/earths etc because you shouldn't be having PC earth interfering with Control box earth and vise versa. You haven't earhed the PC to control box earth have you.? PC should just use the Earth in the Plug and no external earth to control or machine frame.
Also have you got a Earth from machine frame to Control Star earth.? If not then do so.
Can you post your Mach3 XML file (Zip it up) it will be in mach3 folder using same name as the profile your loading from Mach3 loader.
What VFD is it and does it work normally Ie: ~using buttons on front.?
What settings have you changed in the VFD and what did you enter.?
What inputs on the VFD are you connecting to.?
That's the best idea, also I don't know why you suspect earthing as the problem, I would be thinking it was the chassis mounted USB connector from your description, or that the closed door was exerting undue pressure on the cable thus twisting it somehow in the socket.Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyD
Because it's a common hack with USB that is easily affected by noise. The USB SS suffered from it and Tony's probably read something around these lines.? Just guesssing on that thou.!Quote:
Originally Posted by EddyCurrent
Well I was just going off this comment, I've had this problem in the past when cables are routed to the front panel so that when they are moved upon closing the door they affect other components they touch.Quote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyD
Thanks Chaps, I'll do some documentation tonight. I may have muddied the waters a little, the first issue was the closing door, it was weird and I couldnt see anything, so I removed the chassis connector and it was resolved, I'll post pictures to describe that one better. The second issue (possibly realted) seems to be just when the VFD spins up the spindle as I can have the VFD on spindle stationary and the comms stay up. The VFD is the standard Huanyang variant from China, nothing changed from default, it does make some noise on start-up, the water cooling is active but I guess as its indoors and I'm usually tinkering in the early hours, luckily our neighbour is on holiday :) The reason I'm on USB is the board doesent have the Ethernet module on it, I'll try to source one shortly. It does feel noise/interference currently but frankly the control box was very prototypish anyway with lots of connectors across different faces of the box and the door used becuase I ran out of space, I was planning to move to a larger box and possibly mount the vfd in there also. Anyway, thanks for the ideas, I'll document where I am, look at the ethernet module and see about a bigger box shortly. Three quick questions though..
1). Do folks power the VFD, PSU's and all other CNC stuff (not including PC) from just one 13A wall plug, I'm using the VFD on its own plug right now.
2). For the ethernet SS, do I need to add a router or switch between the SS and PC or will a cross-over cable generally do between them?
3). I would really like to mount the control box on the frame, I've read comments about vibration etc, is it really a bad idea or do some folks find it works ok, it would make my cabling neater and the whole machine would be more compact.
Cheers. Tony.
If you have mounted some parts on the door have you in fact grounded the door to the box, or are you just relying on the hinges for the ground? ..Clive
1. Mine is hard wired to the consumer unit using armoured cable.Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyD
2. The ESS connects directly to the PC with a standard ethernet cable.
3. Mine is wall mounted but maybe you could mount it to the frame using rubber engine mountings.
Thanks to Gary @ Zapp who answered a query today, the PLCM E3 card I am using also support's ethernet, I've been assuming that it didnt since the there appeared to be a daughterboard on the SS literature that isnt on the card I have.I guess the Rev 2 of the SS that I have didnt need it. I have comms to the SS now, I had a crossover cable adaptor spare so thats working now :) I can jog so thats working fine. The VFD is soundling like my very own Rols Royce Trent 900 turbo fan & I can jog so no lost comms :) :)
Thanks for the feedback Eddy, until I upgrade the control box I'll stick to a seperate wall plug for now. Time to read the VFD manual now and find out how to not have it spin so fast it wakes the neighbourhood. Thanks again.
Ok first let me just clear up something because it becomes confusing for others reading this.! You don't have a SS this relates to a particular Brand name of Motion control card called the Smooth stepper shortened to SS or ESS for the ethernet version.Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyD
You have PLCM E3 which is still a motion control card but not to be confused with the SS.
Now what breakout board do you have because the PLCM E3 doesn't have spindle speed control directly so for this you'll need either external spindle speed control board or a breakout board with one built into it.
If you haven't set up the parameters in the VFD then don't go trying to make it start else you'll possibly do it some damage if the parameters are set wrong.
After setting intial parameters like Voltage, amps etc then if you want to control it thru G-code and the control software then you'll need to set more parameters in VFD so can be controlled from an external source. Also along with this you'll need to set outputs and spindle settings etc in Mach3.
Do a search on the forum and you'll find the settings and parmeters to change.
Thanks Jazz, you're right, I meant the generic, it is as you say an PLCM E3 from Purelogic, a Russian company. I'm using the Zapp ZP5A-INT breakout board, I'm not planning to try and control the spindle speed using that but I do have a USB dongle that supports RS485 that I've read will work for speed control. We'll see, right now as you say I've got to explore the VFD manully and get that going, with perhaps a little less noise.
You could put a pot on the vfd front panel to control the speed if its the standard Chinese one. ..Clive
Fitting a pot to a vfd.
Here is the link to the way I did it http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7388-...ighlight=speed ..Clive
Great Thread, thanks Clive.
I have two NPN NC bullet type proximity switches on my X Axis. Normally the inbuilt LED lights up when the target metal approaches and triggers the switch. As of last week, one of the proximity switches is lit the whole time, I cant change its state. Mach is reporting the error when I try to home the X axis. I've run a new switch to the same connectors as the faulty one and the new switch stays lit also. Note, in case it matters both switches were in parallel during this test. I can't spot any obviously loose wires in the control box. Before I start to tear into the control box, has anyone experienced this type of failure mode from the proximity switch before? Cheers. Tony.
Have you tried them on another input ? are they 3 wire or 2 wire type ? 3 wire likely.
Did you change the position of them so the end is more flush with the surrounding bracket ? (what I mean is that's a bad thing)
Hi Eddy, thanks. 3 wire, I'll change the input and report back, no - no adjustment, cant see a good reason for the signal stage and the proxy in paralell shouldnt have triggered either it was hanging in mid-air, I should have said that too.
OK, turn out that the PX is actually behaving fine, its the other X Axis one thats dead, ran a new one in parallel and that one works as advertised so I'll just swap the dead one out. Sorry for the confusion. Tony.
Also, for those who are thinking "I thought those Px switches were reliable", they probabily are, the two I have on my X Axis have little dents in the front, no doubt from an impact with the X Axis! So no surprise that at least at one of them failed :)
Tony can you remount them so that the target slides over the end instead of crashing into it. ..CliveQuote:
Originally Posted by TonyD
And for my next problem.. :)
So things are generally going well but very slowly. I was nicely surfacing the MDF bed of the machine but saw one of the ball screws coming away from the coupling so a good spot of tightening up was carried out and I am much more confident that wont happen again. Having created infeasible amounts of dust and also realised that the Cambam feed was set way too low I have paused to consider some options. Firstly the dust is a problem so I've got some parts on order for a cyclonic dust extractor into my Aldi ash bin and I think I'll be OK to machine some acrylic for a dust shoe but I digress...
I thought I'd add tool auto height. I read the threads, set up the inputs and did the wiring which (as its probably) relevant was just two wires from the BOB input to a set of crocodile clips one for the tool for now and one for a little plate. All was well and I tested it by touching the probe to the plate in my hands to make sure the Z retracted and it did, ... the joy :) so then the real test and as soon a I connected the crocodile clip to the end mill in the spindle the Pilz tripped out. Not the RCD's the Pilz. So, I guess its an earthing issue but without me having to draw up a wiring diagram, has anyone experienced this type of thing before? Thanks in advance chaps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CraftyGeek
Do you have the name of the stockist, thats a fairly good price :)
i always check metals4u.co.uk for steel and their about £60 + vat for 6m
stuart